Jonesy113
resin fondler
resin fondler
Joined: 02 Jun 2013 13:51

15 Jul 2018 08:31 #21

This is great to watch, always wanted to do some scratch building but don’t have the confidence (or skills) to try it. :clap: :cool
On the Bench:
Airfix 1/48 Harrier GR3
Airfix 1/48 Canberra B(I)8

On the Shelf:
A family of Harriers, mainly in 1/48 (GR7, FRS1, FA2) some in 1/72 (GR5, T10).
Trio of Eurofighter a Typhoons in 1/48 (EF2000, Single seater and Twin seater).
1/48 Spitfire Mk9
1/72 B17
1/48 Tornado F3
1/48 Alpha jet
Many more...
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Beaver
Kit reviewer
Kit reviewer
Joined: 25 Apr 2012 14:54

16 Jul 2018 05:31 #22

Jonesy113 wrote:This is great to watch, always wanted to do some scratch building but don’t have the confidence (or skills) to try it. :clap: :cool
I think with scratch building and modification, one barrier for me has been the price I've paid for a kit. With an expensive kit, I can't get over the thought that I could write off the kit if it goes wrong. With a cheaper kit, it doesn't hurt so much.
On the bench;

Not a Lynx (for a while).
My modelling philosophy. 1. Build. 2. Enjoy. 3. That's it really!
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Beaver
Kit reviewer
Kit reviewer
Joined: 25 Apr 2012 14:54

16 Jul 2018 06:01 #23

UPDATE 5

There's light at the end of the tunnel now. Most of the changes to the model have been done, so a little more assembly is in order.

The windscreen and roof panel section was added. On the 1/48 Lynx kit, this has always proved to be a good fit in my experience.




The forward doors needed a little sanding to be a good fit. The cabin doors and tail boom were also fitted. The tail boom join is good as long as it's paint free!



The model is now ready for some primer, which will show areas needing more filling and/or sanding :redface



Right side in primer - it's my favourite Halfords Grey aerosol




Left side in primer




The remaining jobs are down to;

Undercarriage fitting
Aerials, probes, Harpoon and cargo hook to be fitted
Horizontal stabiliser to be fitted
Main blades to be painted and assembled - no droop allowed!!!
Tail rotor to be modified, painted and fitted
Final top coats to be airbrushed


As mentioned before, there's light at the end of the tunnel. More soon.

Regards,

Nigel
:grin:




On the bench;

Not a Lynx (for a while).
My modelling philosophy. 1. Build. 2. Enjoy. 3. That's it really!
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Mark M
Plastic Legend
Plastic Legend
Joined: 11 Feb 2011 16:22

16 Jul 2018 11:54 #24

this should be a book - the how to guide, cracking mate
Regards Mark
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Olde Farte
Modelling God
Modelling God
Joined: 17 Dec 2012 15:17

16 Jul 2018 13:11 #25

Looking better now she has some foundation on to cover the wrinkles etc.
Delboy AKA Papa Smurf


Manyana, "Maybe the job will be done tomorrow; Maybe the next day; Maybe the day after that; Or perhaps next week; Next month; Next year. Who really cares?"
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Beaver
Kit reviewer
Kit reviewer
Joined: 25 Apr 2012 14:54

18 Jul 2018 10:01 #26

UPDATE 6

This could well be the final update before the finished photos are taken. Now my modelling enthusiasm has returned, this build had proved to be an enjoyable one!

One thing I've mentioned that could spoil a whole day was tackling the tail rotor conversion. Without trying to be technical, the Lynx is fitted with a spring bias unit housed at the back of the tail fin. In flight, this off-loads some of the aerodynamic forces acting on the tail rotor. On the ground, because of this very powerful unit, the Lynx should be parked with the right yaw pedal fully forwards.

At rest, the Lynx tail rotor blades are canted outwards, away from the tail fin. In their excellent 1/48 scale kit, Airfix have captured this beautifully. This photo shows a vertical red line with the kit tail rotor held against it, showing how the blades look when canted outboard.




For my conversion to HAS.2 standard, I need to make the tail rotor travel in the anti-clockwise direction (when viewed from the left side of the aircraft) but also lean each blade outboard from the hub. If I simply put the tail rotor on "backwards", the blades would cant inboard, which would be totally incorrect. The kit rotor as supplied, travels clockwise.

The conversion starts with cutting the tail rotor blades off the centre hub. Gulp!


I only cut off two blades at a time, as the rotor hub is too small for my sausage fingers to grip if I cut off all the blades. Re-mounting the cut off blades two at a time also makes it easier for me to achieve the outwards bias to each blade a little more easily as I have the existing blades to refer to.




One job that must be carried out on each tail blade is to cut off the "spike" that's sticking up near the blade root, and to re-mount this very small piece of plastic on the opposite side of the blade root.





It might be of interest that this spike-like item is actually called a Protruberence, and on the real aircraft, is a threaded rod. The idea was that weights could be added to the rods to balance the tail rotor.


Here's the assembled tail rotor in primer, having had all blades reversed and the pitch change spider unit fitted.




This next photo shows the outward bias on the blades, having been re-mounted. The correct angles were achieved with a sanding stick versus trial & error



Apart from painting, that's the tail rotor done and dusted. The outward canting of the blades is a small detail in the overall scheme, but one that I feel matters a lot. Of note is that in the Revell 1/32 scale kit, they've made no attempt to show this detail, but at least cutting the blades off the larger kit is a bit easier. :yipee


The main rotor blades were shown being modified in a previous update. The time arrived when I had to mount the blades to the hub.

In a "not again" moment, there are some MMM members that will know I have a bee in the bonnet about the Lynx main rotor blades being horizontal. On the real aircraft, there's hardly a millimetre of droop on the blades. On a model, this can be difficult to achieve, so I'll show my personal method of doing this.


Firstly, I put a peice of flat glass on my cutting mat. Mounting one blade to the hub (which is upside down) I tape the blade down in two places. I then mount the opposite blade and tape that down also.

As I have a sheet of glass large enough, I repeated this for the other blades. The rotor assembly is still upside down against the glass. I use the guide lines on the cutting mat to ensure the blades are correctly positioned relative to each other.






Hving got this far with the main blade assembly, I put the glass sheet with the blades on in a position where I can leave it undisturbed for at least 24 hours while the glue bonds. Once given this time, I hold each blade down firmly with my fingers while I carefully peel off the tape, causing no flex or strain on the blades, and when turned the right way up - horizontal blades! Simples.


As I write, the model has been fully painted and marked, with all aerials and probes fitted. I've made intake and exhaust blanks and hung the correct type of Remove Before Flight tags on the model, to brighten it up a little. I won't cover the painting as we all know how to paint and frankly, there are others on MMM who can do that much better than myself. Also, it means that the first time I reveal the scheme will be a surprise for anyone who hasn't worked out which unique helicopter this HAS.2 is.

I think this one deserves a base to sit on, so I'll have a stab at that before I finish the model. For Mark - this will be a small base - CockpitFest friendly! :rolf

Finished photos in a few days time. Thank you for your comments.

Regards,

Nigel
:grin:





On the bench;

Not a Lynx (for a while).
My modelling philosophy. 1. Build. 2. Enjoy. 3. That's it really!
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Olde Farte
Modelling God
Modelling God
Joined: 17 Dec 2012 15:17

18 Jul 2018 10:14 #27

You have the patience of a Saint if there was such a person Nigel.
Delboy AKA Papa Smurf


Manyana, "Maybe the job will be done tomorrow; Maybe the next day; Maybe the day after that; Or perhaps next week; Next month; Next year. Who really cares?"
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DevilFish
canopy polisher
canopy polisher
Joined: 14 Feb 2011 07:23

18 Jul 2018 11:20 #28

:gob
If anything I write can be taken two ways, and one way upsets you, I meant it the other way!


We hunt by day and night
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Beaver
Kit reviewer
Kit reviewer
Joined: 25 Apr 2012 14:54

20 Jul 2018 21:14 #29

FINAL UPDATE


Well this one's finished!



This model represents Westland Lynx HAS.2 XZ691 of the Royal Navy. Around 1980, this helicopter operated in Northern Ireland in support of Operation Banner, and I believe is the only Royal Navy Lynx ever to be painted in an Army camouflage colour scheme.

I am often intrigued by unusual or one-off paint schemes and this one certainly made me look twice.

The list of modifications made include;

Nose cone cut and re-profiled
Sponson ends re-shaped
Main rotor blades made into the original straight shape, removing the paddle tips of the later Lynx, and fabricating & fitting new blade tips
Main rotor blade roots re-profiled
Horizontal stabiliser re-profiled and lengthened
Tail rotor - all blades cut off and re-mounted to rotate anti-clockwise instead of the more recent Lynx tail which rotated clockwise
Removal of the reverse gearbox from the tail
Filling in of antennae positioning recesses
Engine bay covers re-profiled
Scratch built exhaust and engine intake covers


I'll post some photos in the Gallery section. Thank you for comments made - much appreciated. The map used as the background is a 1:250,000 of Northern Ireland.

Regards,

Nigel
:grin:
On the bench;

Not a Lynx (for a while).
My modelling philosophy. 1. Build. 2. Enjoy. 3. That's it really!
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Disorder
Kit reviewer
Kit reviewer
Joined: 20 Feb 2013 17:03

20 Jul 2018 23:26 #30

Thats a cracking build, Nigel. Great conversion work.
Regards, Paddy.
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mac1677
heavy weatherer
heavy weatherer
Joined: 15 Jan 2016 19:26

21 Jul 2018 07:05 #31

Superb build Nigel and a great conversion :cool
Regards

Mac

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Olde Farte
Modelling God
Modelling God
Joined: 17 Dec 2012 15:17

21 Jul 2018 12:49 #32

Great work and the finished product in that camo is very different.
Delboy AKA Papa Smurf


Manyana, "Maybe the job will be done tomorrow; Maybe the next day; Maybe the day after that; Or perhaps next week; Next month; Next year. Who really cares?"
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Mark M
Plastic Legend
Plastic Legend
Joined: 11 Feb 2011 16:22

21 Jul 2018 15:44 #33

thats awesome
Regards Mark
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blainecole
airbrush beginner
airbrush beginner
blainecole
airbrush beginner
airbrush beginner
Joined: 28 Aug 2015 01:31

22 Jul 2018 03:15 #34

Your attention to detail and your skill at scratch building have been impressive. Well done.
There ain't no slack in fast attack
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