Super Glue and Talc Filling

desmojen
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desmojen
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Joined: August 19th, 2009, 6:39 am

March 4th, 2010, 2:29 pm #1

Having seen all the questions in Drewe's Phantom build about the CA + Talc method, I decided to put this little picture sequence up to show you. It seems to be an ever popular question, so I've made it sticky (see what I did there? :lol:)

You might wonder why anyone would bother putting talc into CA, it can be used as a filler by itself can't it?
Well yes it can, but if you've ever tried it, you will know how hard CA gets, and if you don't sand it straight away you are in trouble! It is also very hard to scribe, and can be stinky when used in large quantities.
Adding talc changes the qualities of the glue immensely. It becomes easier to apply as it is unlikely to run. It is massively easier to sand, and it stays that way regardless of how long you leave it. It will go off by itself quite happily, or you can use accelerator, you can drill it, carve it, file it, feather it and scribe it. It basically behaves like instant Milliput :)

Here is how I do it.
Firstly, you will need a gap. Here's one I made earlier in a popular large scale Spitfire kit.



I always like to suggest that the best way of filling things is to avoid it altogether, but sometimes it is not possible, and this was one of those times.

So, what do you need?



Answer, some CA glue, some talc, something to mix it on, and something to mix it with. Almost any CA will do this, but I would stay away from the super thin types, or the gel types.
The talc came from a one quid shop and is ordinary bathroom stuff. I use old bits of plastic to mix it on (currently the lid from a box of cotton buds) and I use cocktail sticks to mix it up.



There is no set ratio of talc to glue. You can vary it according to what you are trying to achieve. For instance, less talc and a runnier mix is usually better for fine gaps, whereas a thick mix is good for bridging larger gaps. If you play around with it a bit you will soon find a consistency you like.



When mixed, you will have a sweet smelling gloop which looks something like this. It is now ready to use.



Putting it on with the stick is pretty self explanatory, but it's worth pointing out that this filler will also stick your bits together. For this reason I am working the gloop right into that big gap, rather than trying to bridge across the top.



Once applied it will look something like this.



Using accelerator is a matter of choice. With neat CA you pretty much have to if you want half a chance at sanding it. With the talc you can leave it to cure by itself if you prefer.
On the subject of accelerator, I recommend the Roket stuff by Deluxe Materials. It is the only one I have ever used which does not melt your plastic, or remove paint.



I always use sanding boards. Sponges will not work on this occasion, take my word for it. 240 grit wet'n'dry will work too if you can't get a sanding board into a corner or something. The gloop sands as easily as normal filler.



And here is the finished job. Because sanding boards or coarse paper need to be used, I use sponges afterwards to get the scratches out. It is well worth popping a coat of Mr Surfacer or Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer over the seams just to fill in any remaining scratches or small pinholes.
These photos were taken over a year ago, and I do have a slight twist on the method now. Prompted by watching some guy on youtube, I now add a small amount of MIG pigment to my talc before mixing with CA. This colours the mixture and helps make things a bit easier to see, but is entirely optional.

So there you go. Give it a try, you may be pleasantly surprised! I never fill with anything else now, and also build with CA in the first place, so ghost seams are a thing of the past. And it's fast too, it has taken way longer to write this post than that filler job would have taken me :)

Jen.
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phantomdriver
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phantomdriver
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Joined: September 22nd, 2009, 7:22 am

March 4th, 2010, 2:35 pm #2

always wondered why it wouldn't work for me........

:slaphead: :bow:
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MemberOne
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MemberOne
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Joined: July 6th, 2009, 5:49 pm

March 4th, 2010, 4:43 pm #3

Great tip Jen I'll give this one a try
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Mike W
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Mike W
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Joined: August 25th, 2009, 8:24 pm

March 4th, 2010, 6:11 pm #4

Tried and tested.
I thoroughly endorse this method :thumbsup:
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les
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les
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Joined: September 5th, 2009, 12:39 pm

March 4th, 2010, 9:15 pm #5

go for the perfume smelling talk and it smells nice ;) agree never used filler for years.
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Phreak
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Phreak
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Joined: August 25th, 2009, 7:02 pm

March 4th, 2010, 9:39 pm #6

Thanks very much Jen, a very informative mini article on a suject dear to most people's hearts.
I'm going to have a go with this and see how I get on.
One quick dumbish question if I may. Do have any preference on which sanding boards you use?
Cheers
Rich
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les
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les
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Joined: September 5th, 2009, 12:39 pm

March 4th, 2010, 9:56 pm #7

Rich,

Iuse a file or needle files and any grade of sander, it can be polished so anything will do. the more talk you use the quicker it goes off.
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peebeep
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peebeep
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Joined: July 8th, 2009, 8:27 pm

March 4th, 2010, 10:51 pm #8

les wrote: the more talk you use the quicker it goes off.
Is this a modelling or chat up tutorial?!

:rofl:

peebeep
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les
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les
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Joined: September 5th, 2009, 12:39 pm

March 5th, 2010, 11:02 pm #9

typo :slaphead:
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DH764
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DH764
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Joined: September 26th, 2012, 9:02 am

September 27th, 2012, 8:06 pm #10

You learn something new everyday !!
Ill be using this on my next Airfix Tornado ...plenty of gaps to fill :D
Now just need a tip to explain to SWMBO why Im buying Talc all the sudden :P

Andy
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