Top 10 Scrambles

Top 10 Scrambles

Joined: April 14th, 2005, 2:42 am

September 16th, 2014, 2:31 am #1

This thread was running off-topic on the Perfect Peak thread (there is a little more preceding this there, so go visit that, too). So here's the last post from Super Dave. And I think it's a great discussion that is worthy of its own thread. Please add to it as you see fit.

[SuperDave]
To me, solid rock, some exposure, and a long scramble section are all required. Also, if I’m focusing enough on figuring out route-finding that I don’t notice being tired and winded, then that’s a good thing too.

A couple of us were discussing the “top 10 Idaho scrambles” yesterday after doing Tower of Babel in the 7 Devils. No consensus on the order of ranking, but here are peaks we felt worth considering.:

Regan
Castle
Big Basin Peak (EF Wood River approach)
Old Hyndman
Brocky
11272 (White Clouds)
Tower of Babel
Diamond
Idaho
Goat Mtn (Pios)
The Fin
DBE
WCP-10
Snowyside
Ivory Peak
McGown
Baron
Sacajawea

So which ones are we missing?
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Joined: April 14th, 2005, 2:42 am

September 16th, 2014, 2:56 am #2

So responding to SuperDave:

I'd like to hear from George and John in this thread.

Here are mine. Note that because 'scramble' is so variable, I'm not saying I would recommend all of these, because some may seem more than scrambles. Also, route is critical in terms of both fun and hazard. I tried to avoid the 'most recent' bias. They are not in order. And YMMV.


Brocky


Castle


Big Basin Peak


Nick


Old Hyndman


Goat


Perfect


The Fin


Sacajawea


Bell


Snowyside


JT


El Capitan
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Joined: December 20th, 2007, 4:22 pm

September 16th, 2014, 4:44 pm #3

This thread was running off-topic on the Perfect Peak thread (there is a little more preceding this there, so go visit that, too). So here's the last post from Super Dave. And I think it's a great discussion that is worthy of its own thread. Please add to it as you see fit.

[SuperDave]
To me, solid rock, some exposure, and a long scramble section are all required. Also, if I’m focusing enough on figuring out route-finding that I don’t notice being tired and winded, then that’s a good thing too.

A couple of us were discussing the “top 10 Idaho scrambles” yesterday after doing Tower of Babel in the 7 Devils. No consensus on the order of ranking, but here are peaks we felt worth considering.:

Regan
Castle
Big Basin Peak (EF Wood River approach)
Old Hyndman
Brocky
11272 (White Clouds)
Tower of Babel
Diamond
Idaho
Goat Mtn (Pios)
The Fin
DBE
WCP-10
Snowyside
Ivory Peak
McGown
Baron
Sacajawea

So which ones are we missing?
I'd probably add Kent because it is such nice rock for the Boulders and Cobb because it's my favorite up to this point in the Pioneers.

I mean, look at that ridgeline!

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Mark
Mark

September 16th, 2014, 10:55 pm #4

This thread was running off-topic on the Perfect Peak thread (there is a little more preceding this there, so go visit that, too). So here's the last post from Super Dave. And I think it's a great discussion that is worthy of its own thread. Please add to it as you see fit.

[SuperDave]
To me, solid rock, some exposure, and a long scramble section are all required. Also, if I’m focusing enough on figuring out route-finding that I don’t notice being tired and winded, then that’s a good thing too.

A couple of us were discussing the “top 10 Idaho scrambles” yesterday after doing Tower of Babel in the 7 Devils. No consensus on the order of ranking, but here are peaks we felt worth considering.:

Regan
Castle
Big Basin Peak (EF Wood River approach)
Old Hyndman
Brocky
11272 (White Clouds)
Tower of Babel
Diamond
Idaho
Goat Mtn (Pios)
The Fin
DBE
WCP-10
Snowyside
Ivory Peak
McGown
Baron
Sacajawea

So which ones are we missing?
Devil's Throne is as good as the Tower of Babel and I've done two routes on it
E ridge of Pyramid in the Pios is nice with neat outcrops to traverse or skirt lower down, too.
WCP-10 ridge all the way to summit of Caulkins is really really fun
NE ridge of Freeman Peak in the Beaverheads is on the hard end of these
North Rib of Snowslide (topping out just west of summit) has some exceptionally lovely rock
Sevy and Cirque Lake peak are two more in a host of Sawtooth Peaks to perhaps qualify (Can you just say that the entire Sawtooths and Pios are top 10?)
E ridge of 10460 (southern subsummit of the Wedge) from Stroud Lake in the Lemhis is the finest scramble I've done in that range.
Harrison Peak in the Idaho selkirks is quite good as is the face of Beehive Dome nearby and the traverse between the two.
11458 in the boulders NW ridge has the goods but guards them with a sloggier approach of several thousand feet.
Steel Mtn northwest ridge isn't quite a scramble but the views are like a top ten scramble
The face of Cache or Independence from the lakes in the Albions would be my south of the snake river honorable mention
The Bighorn Crags, Tango Peaks, and Selway Crags have potential but deserve future field time to determine individual recommendations.

If being just a few miles from the Idaho Border counts then you would nead to add Hilgard and N. Trapper in MT and a number of Teton summits in Wyoming
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Geo
Geo

September 17th, 2014, 2:39 am #5

This thread was running off-topic on the Perfect Peak thread (there is a little more preceding this there, so go visit that, too). So here's the last post from Super Dave. And I think it's a great discussion that is worthy of its own thread. Please add to it as you see fit.

[SuperDave]
To me, solid rock, some exposure, and a long scramble section are all required. Also, if I’m focusing enough on figuring out route-finding that I don’t notice being tired and winded, then that’s a good thing too.

A couple of us were discussing the “top 10 Idaho scrambles” yesterday after doing Tower of Babel in the 7 Devils. No consensus on the order of ranking, but here are peaks we felt worth considering.:

Regan
Castle
Big Basin Peak (EF Wood River approach)
Old Hyndman
Brocky
11272 (White Clouds)
Tower of Babel
Diamond
Idaho
Goat Mtn (Pios)
The Fin
DBE
WCP-10
Snowyside
Ivory Peak
McGown
Baron
Sacajawea

So which ones are we missing?
I better jump in before all my choices are chosen. ...Depends on conditions, and as I started putting a list together I realized that the distance to the start of the scramble on the day of the climb seemed to influence my choices a lot. The less sagebrush, the better - and if I'd hiked and camped above it, it seemed to cancel it out. Not knowing if the route was going to go also added. It seemed like almost everything in the Pios made my list.

Some that didn't make my list of favorite scrambles because of conditions (but were great climbs):
Old Hyndman – we climbed this right after a snowstorm and I had very little sleep the night before, so it was more of a winter death march with ice in the dike at the end, instead of a scramble. Awesome, steep, slushy glissade.

Sacagawea – We climbed this starting from W Fk Pahsimeroi, gained the ridge between Sac & Mt Idaho and then climbed from the SSW, so it wasn’t quite the scramble it would have been from COR.

Goat – we were dodging lightning bolts, so we didn’t really get to enjoy it.


My faves:
Brocky +1 – the West face route is not recommended since any rock fall could cause serious injury, but it was an awesome scramble!

DBE +1 …and just about anything else that could be climbed out of Wildhorse CG: Rearing Stallion, Boulder Lake, Angel’s Perch, Gabriel’s Horn.

Castle +1 – camped in Chamberlain Basin

Big Basin (and The Box) +1 – we climbed the Box and then followed the ridge to Big Basin, even better.

The Fin +1 …and Standhope. We camped at Baptie Lake for Standhope, Fin (traverse) and Recess. I suspect Altair would have been a nice scramble, but we did that as a posthole snow climb. Pyramid from Bellas was fun.

Andromeda via East Ridge (aka Chrysaor) - camped at > 9400’.

Snowyside +1 – camped at Lake 9167.

Merpin - this one just felt like a Pioneer peak, and the outcome was in doubt.

11272 +1 – camped at Cove Lake.

WCP-10 (and Calkens) +1 – I think I enjoyed Calkens from WCP-10 almost as much as WCP-10, camped at Cove lake.

“Bodacious” ...but this involves a lot of sagebrush.

11458 from Lost Mine – lots of scrambling & route finding. Had no idea if our route was going to go.

N Ryan via East Ridge – leave the trail just before N Fk Lake and gain the east ridge near point 9693 for a long, scrambling ridge walk.

Riddler – camped at >9000’ between Riddler and Big Boy

I'm sure I'm forgetting some, but I'm already way over my limit.
-George
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Joined: April 14th, 2005, 2:42 am

September 17th, 2014, 1:35 pm #6

I like your list.
I also agree with the theme- the more adventurous the scramble, the greater the reward.
And finally, I especially agree with your comments on Brocky and putting it first. Has anyone done the 'standard' route? Judy? Comments on that?
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Mike F
Mike F

September 20th, 2014, 4:20 am #7

Geo, Sorry to hear about the storms on Goat. That was one of the best scrambles I have had to date, With good weather. The rest of the list looks amazing. I have climbed DBE and rate it as another favorite top ten. I'd add Bell Mountain in the Lemhi's and Old Hyndman for sure. Also a smaller group that's fun is summit creek peak and phi kappa from trail creek summit on the ridge. not hard but the scenery was amazing. Post on!
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LT
LT

September 24th, 2014, 4:48 pm #8

Maybe not top-10, but I would add DO Lee (White Clouds) & Mt McGuire (Big Horn Crags) to the consideration list for the views & remoteness. Two of my favorites so far anyway, besides already-mentioned Castle, Bell & Goat.
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TomLopez
TomLopez

September 24th, 2014, 5:10 pm #9

So responding to SuperDave:

I'd like to hear from George and John in this thread.

Here are mine. Note that because 'scramble' is so variable, I'm not saying I would recommend all of these, because some may seem more than scrambles. Also, route is critical in terms of both fun and hazard. I tried to avoid the 'most recent' bias. They are not in order. And YMMV.


Brocky


Castle


Big Basin Peak


Nick


Old Hyndman


Goat


Perfect


The Fin


Sacajawea


Bell


Snowyside


JT


El Capitan
Great list. I could easily adopt it as mine. I would add Cobb's west ridge.
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Joined: August 22nd, 2014, 3:28 am

September 24th, 2014, 11:55 pm #10

Wow, that JT Peak looks like a big adventure. I remember when you guys climbed this a few years ago, but clearly need to add this to my wish list!


http://www.splattski.com/2011/jt_peak/index.html
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