Standhope and points south

Standhope and points south

Geo
Geo

September 27th, 2011, 6:09 am #1

John & I had some free time and the weather forecast was good, so we settled our plans on a climbing trip based out of Baptie Lake. We reasoned that the timing was perfect since it was after Labor Day and before hunting season ...but we forgot about "controlled burn season". We ended up breathing a lot of Pioneer smoke


Our plans were to climb Standhope and The Fin...


From the summit cairn on The Fin, the highpoint to the south looks like it could be higher

No worries, the remaining part of our plan was to traverse The Fin to climb Peak 11580, aka Recess Peak, so were were headed in that direction anyway.

From that highpoint, the Fin summit cairn appears to be properly placed.

From the summit of Recess, we got a good look at where all the smoke was coming from.


Then we worked our way back towards The Fin searching for the seam that would take us to the saddle on the east spur ridge to avoid repeating our traverse of The Fin.


After a bit of route finding, lots of scrambling and a short scree slog, we were looking down on home, sweet, home:


Baptie Lake and our exit ramp from the north


Standhope, Fin & Recess slideshow

-George


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Wes
Wes

September 28th, 2011, 9:29 pm #2

Nice trip guys!! I've always thought that was one of Idaho's prettiest basins. I did an Altair to 11,887' in 04 and remember looking at peak 11,580' thinking it may not have seen an ascent but there was no way I was going across more of the 11,887' ridge, that thing is a pig. I went to a small notch on the north side of the summit and then did a butt-cheek descent directly down a weakness on the East face. When I got to the bottom and headed toward Goat lake I looked back and thought 'there's no way I'd have climbed up that'. In your photos the descent down the seam looked pretty clean but as I remember, the face was pretty dirty. I kicked or brushed small rocks out of many of the holds. There are definitely some nice lines up there though. Looking at your dawn photos I recollect seeing that same strong orange light on the mountains, I'm guessing it's the color of the rock. makes it hard to miss with the camera. Thanks for the photos!

Ps.
Did you find anything under that tiny cairn up there?

Altair to 11,887'
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splattski
splattski

September 28th, 2011, 10:09 pm #3

John & I had some free time and the weather forecast was good, so we settled our plans on a climbing trip based out of Baptie Lake. We reasoned that the timing was perfect since it was after Labor Day and before hunting season ...but we forgot about "controlled burn season". We ended up breathing a lot of Pioneer smoke


Our plans were to climb Standhope and The Fin...


From the summit cairn on The Fin, the highpoint to the south looks like it could be higher

No worries, the remaining part of our plan was to traverse The Fin to climb Peak 11580, aka Recess Peak, so were were headed in that direction anyway.

From that highpoint, the Fin summit cairn appears to be properly placed.

From the summit of Recess, we got a good look at where all the smoke was coming from.


Then we worked our way back towards The Fin searching for the seam that would take us to the saddle on the east spur ridge to avoid repeating our traverse of The Fin.


After a bit of route finding, lots of scrambling and a short scree slog, we were looking down on home, sweet, home:


Baptie Lake and our exit ramp from the north


Standhope, Fin & Recess slideshow

-George

Really nice photos, George. That's some serious ridge work.


Too bad about the smoke. I was remembering smoke when we did Goat a couple years back, but I checked- and that was in early August. I also remember getting it BAD when we were on the Finger in early September one year. I suppose the timing for burns depends on temp, humidity, and need?
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Dave
Dave

September 28th, 2011, 11:39 pm #4

Nice trip guys!! I've always thought that was one of Idaho's prettiest basins. I did an Altair to 11,887' in 04 and remember looking at peak 11,580' thinking it may not have seen an ascent but there was no way I was going across more of the 11,887' ridge, that thing is a pig. I went to a small notch on the north side of the summit and then did a butt-cheek descent directly down a weakness on the East face. When I got to the bottom and headed toward Goat lake I looked back and thought 'there's no way I'd have climbed up that'. In your photos the descent down the seam looked pretty clean but as I remember, the face was pretty dirty. I kicked or brushed small rocks out of many of the holds. There are definitely some nice lines up there though. Looking at your dawn photos I recollect seeing that same strong orange light on the mountains, I'm guessing it's the color of the rock. makes it hard to miss with the camera. Thanks for the photos!

Ps.
Did you find anything under that tiny cairn up there?

Altair to 11,887'
Apparently the item that used to be near the summit cairn is no longer there.

Great climb you guys! Climbing just The Fin would have been great, but you guys extended the greatness.
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Geo
Geo

September 29th, 2011, 2:33 am #5

Nice trip guys!! I've always thought that was one of Idaho's prettiest basins. I did an Altair to 11,887' in 04 and remember looking at peak 11,580' thinking it may not have seen an ascent but there was no way I was going across more of the 11,887' ridge, that thing is a pig. I went to a small notch on the north side of the summit and then did a butt-cheek descent directly down a weakness on the East face. When I got to the bottom and headed toward Goat lake I looked back and thought 'there's no way I'd have climbed up that'. In your photos the descent down the seam looked pretty clean but as I remember, the face was pretty dirty. I kicked or brushed small rocks out of many of the holds. There are definitely some nice lines up there though. Looking at your dawn photos I recollect seeing that same strong orange light on the mountains, I'm guessing it's the color of the rock. makes it hard to miss with the camera. Thanks for the photos!

Ps.
Did you find anything under that tiny cairn up there?

Altair to 11,887'
Our descent route was a scree ski, until we got down to the icy snow and had to sidehill around it. I've been eyeballing that route ever since the day I took the picture below. This shot is from our Altair posthole escape route into Broad Canyon. The Fin is not too prominent appearing from this angle, but our Recess/Fin descent route is the first wide gap from the left on the skyline:


Would have loved to have done it a little earlier in the year for the glissadage. This pic is was taken 9/4/11 from Andromeda and there's still a stripe of snow. Early to mid August would have probably been prime.


We had discussed climbing Standhope from it's east ridge, to make it more of a loop route, but we decided we had enough unknowns for one day. As it turned out, it was only an 8 hour journey from camp-to-camp.

-George

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Geo
Geo

September 29th, 2011, 2:37 am #6

Really nice photos, George. That's some serious ridge work.


Too bad about the smoke. I was remembering smoke when we did Goat a couple years back, but I checked- and that was in early August. I also remember getting it BAD when we were on the Finger in early September one year. I suppose the timing for burns depends on temp, humidity, and need?
I remember the smoke the day you climbed Goat, John R & I were on DBE that day. But I don't remember if the smoke was from a controlled burn or a wildfire?

-George
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John R
John R

September 29th, 2011, 4:26 am #7

Nice trip guys!! I've always thought that was one of Idaho's prettiest basins. I did an Altair to 11,887' in 04 and remember looking at peak 11,580' thinking it may not have seen an ascent but there was no way I was going across more of the 11,887' ridge, that thing is a pig. I went to a small notch on the north side of the summit and then did a butt-cheek descent directly down a weakness on the East face. When I got to the bottom and headed toward Goat lake I looked back and thought 'there's no way I'd have climbed up that'. In your photos the descent down the seam looked pretty clean but as I remember, the face was pretty dirty. I kicked or brushed small rocks out of many of the holds. There are definitely some nice lines up there though. Looking at your dawn photos I recollect seeing that same strong orange light on the mountains, I'm guessing it's the color of the rock. makes it hard to miss with the camera. Thanks for the photos!

Ps.
Did you find anything under that tiny cairn up there?

Altair to 11,887'
Wes,

There was the standard Rick B. film cannister under the cairn...I believe it was dated from 2006. There was only one other party signed on since, August 2011

Dave,

I am curious on what the "item" was that was near The Fin summit cairn
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Dave
Dave

September 29th, 2011, 5:07 am #8

Not positive the item Wes was referring to, but here's what I saw up there in 2006:

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