NF of Mt Borah?

NF of Mt Borah?

Joined: May 13th, 2009, 6:17 pm

July 22nd, 2011, 2:02 pm #1

Is anyone planning on getting on the north face of Borah this summer? The conditions this year appear to be better than anything I've seen in a long time. The face should be a straight forward (but steep) snow climb until later this summer when the ice starts to show. There may be some ice forming above 12K. Has anyone looked down the summit couloir lately? Any beta would be appreciated.

Bob
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earl
earl

July 22nd, 2011, 4:32 pm #2

Climbed Borah's standard route on Tuesday and looked down the north face. The top of the couloir is melted out just below the summit but I imagine it is full of snow lower on the face. The north face of Mt Idaho had snow from the base all the way to the summit so I imagine Borah is very similar. The standard route was basically snow free except the saddle after chicken out ridge. An ice axe would be handy but not necessary (we didn't bring one). The snow was pretty soft after about 9:00 am so an early start on the N face would be necessary.
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Joined: May 13th, 2009, 6:17 pm

July 23rd, 2011, 3:59 pm #3

Thanks for the info. I'll be up there in a couple of weeks for a first hand look. I'm obligated to get my daughter on the summit (via CO Ridge) and then I might get a shot at the NF face again. If the morraine is still covered with snow down to the biv site then there's a potential 1900' vert drop on the eastern side of the cirque that I don't believe has ever been done on skis. It's a clean looking line that probably doesn't exceed 40 degrees at the top and the backdrop of the north face would make for some great pictures. I figured Luddite would be all over this one but it sounds like he's put his skis away for the season. Heck, I'd join him on a trip if he'd carry my skis, boots and all of the climbing gear (both ways).

The NF will lose a little bit of direct sun every day now until Dec 21, and when the shadow stays on north face all day it will harden up regardless of the daily high temp.

Bob
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Joined: July 6th, 2010, 12:55 am

July 24th, 2011, 2:37 am #4

I would love to get up there in early Sept, if you think the face will still be in relatively easy condition; and if the old man agrees. I have had my eyes on that line to the east for quite awhile.
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Joined: May 13th, 2009, 6:17 pm

July 24th, 2011, 5:37 am #5

I'm about to hang up my salmon rods for the season although they are still catching fish up in Ellis. (Oh, what should I do?) My climbing instructor from 1972 (Prof Frank Florence - co-founder of Sawtooth Mountaineering) will be swinging through Boise in a couple of weeks (I dropped a bug in his ear about a repeat on the NF), you are itching like a teenager in heat to get a shot at the the face and Jacob and JP might be free in a couple of weeks so I guess we ought to plan an all Idaho siege on the face and get it done. The face could easily handle 3 or 4 parties on different lines at the same time so maybe we should host a Mt Borah north face party this summer before it's too late. If you don't want to climb you could bring your butt saucers and head to the coolest place in Idaho in the month of August. I've got a big old pack that Luddite can haul the keg up with along with my skis. I'll pay $5 per way for a sherpa if you know one.

Bob
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Joined: December 20th, 2007, 3:45 pm

July 24th, 2011, 6:46 pm #6

Skis are still next to the front door. At the ready. Been clipping bolts lately. Still fat from skiing, though! I am up for some Borah action. The other Bob and I have been planning on a Teton pilgramage two weeks from now. We were also mulling over a NF Borah trip. Probably do one or the other. Either way, I should be able to attempt to ski that glorious face. I would be surprised if Colwell didn't ski it already. Looks fantastic! Keep me in mind.
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Bob
Bob

July 24th, 2011, 9:42 pm #7

Kim Anderson, one of Idaho's original exrtreme skiers wanted Mike and I to take him up Borah and down to the top of the main couloir so he could ski the main face but we turned him down because we weren't sure if he'd make it. The face held a lot of ice back then and we didn't think the gear he had at the time could handle it. I don't believe he ever went back on his own and skied it. I'll keep you posted when I know more about a possible window. Are you talking about Bob J?
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Joined: December 20th, 2007, 3:45 pm

July 24th, 2011, 10:18 pm #8

Yes, Bob J. became a partner in crime after John introduced us!

I know Wes, from this forum, has skied the NF of Borah. Might have enough snow for a good run this year on most of the face. I wouldn't mind checking out Dean's route either. Have tools, will travel! The bivy area wouldn't be a bad place to spend a night or two! Also, I would like to get back to Idaho or Breitenbach. Maybe not this year, though...
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Wes
Wes

July 25th, 2011, 6:03 pm #9

You mentioned Breitenbach, are you by chance thinking about a run at the N. Face?
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Luddite
Luddite

July 25th, 2011, 6:51 pm #10

I had thought about it. I talked with Mr. Boyles and went over some pictures. There are a couple of couloirs to the looker's right that I wanted to check out that look like they might be narrow, but continuous to a rock band protecting the ridge. You should know, you took the awesome picture that is hanging in front of my treadmill! I would like to climb the NF (Boyles, Weber, Olson) route, but would really like to see if the coolies would go. Don't know about the snow cover for the NF (Boyles, Weber, Olson) route. When Bob says it needs snow to go, I'm gonna listen! I have a fantasy that the coolies would turn into wonderful threads of ice and the rock band would be passable... or... the couloirs would be filled with soft stable powder hidden in the chasm! Looks classic in the picture ! Thoughts???

I'll be in the Tetons in two weeks for a little while and/or a NF Borah trip. Also planned on a City trip or two in the next two weeks. Once again, too many projects!
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