NF of Mt Borah Route Photo

NF of Mt Borah Route Photo

Bob
Bob

January 30th, 2011, 6:16 pm #1

I posted an updated shot with all of the north face of Mt Borah routes that I am aware of at this time. (Big thanks to JP for the use of the photo. He had to climb to get the shot where all I had to do was fire up Photoshop and draw some lines). The photo that Tom used in the Idaho-ACG was one of my originals from 1976 and was shot high up on the moraine where the view of this big, complex face is extremely foreshortened.

http://www.summitpost.org/north-face-of ... 5/c-167558

Bob
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Wes
Wes

January 31st, 2011, 5:29 pm #2

Bob,
I'd guess a lot has changed since your first trip back there, I've heard the glacier was still active and pretty big (by Idaho standards). I've been back in that cirque several times and have heard there was an old logging trail stretching all the way up but have only been able to find remnants of it on the lower approach. Did you see any of it higher up in the 70's? Also, what's the story on Psycho Therapy, is that a route someone has done?
John, where did you shoot the photo from, what were you climbing?
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Bob
Bob

January 31st, 2011, 7:26 pm #3

I was contacted a couple of years ago by a geologist from Portland State who was doing research on glaciers of the American West and this is the Idaho piece of their work.

http://glaciers.research.pdx.edu/Glaciers-Idaho

The road has just about dissappeared. It used to be easy to follow for the first 3 miles or so but is now overgrown with trees. Rockfall and erosion has erased any sign of it higher up in the canyon. I've got photos from a 30+ year period and the forest cover has more than doubled over that time.

Psycho Therapy is a Dean Lords' route. I don't know anything about the approach so I didn't draw it in on the route photo.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Alpi ... 18147.html


Bob

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Wes
Wes

January 31st, 2011, 8:46 pm #4

Interesting stuff. I'm surprised to hear the forest cover has doubled since you first started visiting the area, was it timber mining or had that all ended long before then?
Luckily Rock Creek from the end of the old road/skid trail is a really great hike through open timber. Much different than other canyons on that side of the range.
I should have guessed it on Psycho Therapy, that looks like one to catch Dean's eye, I know it's caught mine every time I'm in that area and not because I want to climb it. Looks dirty and mean!
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Joined: April 14th, 2005, 2:42 am

January 31st, 2011, 9:37 pm #5

Bob,
I'd guess a lot has changed since your first trip back there, I've heard the glacier was still active and pretty big (by Idaho standards). I've been back in that cirque several times and have heard there was an old logging trail stretching all the way up but have only been able to find remnants of it on the lower approach. Did you see any of it higher up in the 70's? Also, what's the story on Psycho Therapy, is that a route someone has done?
John, where did you shoot the photo from, what were you climbing?
Wes-
Photo was shot from Al West on our freezin' IdahoSummits outing. So mid-October, which explains the shade on the face.

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Joined: April 14th, 2005, 2:42 am

January 31st, 2011, 9:40 pm #6

Interesting stuff. I'm surprised to hear the forest cover has doubled since you first started visiting the area, was it timber mining or had that all ended long before then?
Luckily Rock Creek from the end of the old road/skid trail is a really great hike through open timber. Much different than other canyons on that side of the range.
I should have guessed it on Psycho Therapy, that looks like one to catch Dean's eye, I know it's caught mine every time I'm in that area and not because I want to climb it. Looks dirty and mean!
Agreed 100% on Rock Creek being a great hike. I'd say that upper meadow/tarn/biv site is a worthy destination even if you don't want to climb the face.

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crappyclimber
crappyclimber

January 31st, 2011, 10:21 pm #7

I was contacted a couple of years ago by a geologist from Portland State who was doing research on glaciers of the American West and this is the Idaho piece of their work.

http://glaciers.research.pdx.edu/Glaciers-Idaho

The road has just about dissappeared. It used to be easy to follow for the first 3 miles or so but is now overgrown with trees. Rockfall and erosion has erased any sign of it higher up in the canyon. I've got photos from a 30+ year period and the forest cover has more than doubled over that time.

Psycho Therapy is a Dean Lords' route. I don't know anything about the approach so I didn't draw it in on the route photo.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Alpi ... 18147.html


Bob
I think that line has caught most everyone's eye for the past 30 years. As far as I know, it was originally attempted by Doug Colwell about 1985 or so, and I tried it a couple of times with an old climbing partner Kyle McFarley in the mid nineties. We made it to the crux pitch both times and over the crux pitch the second time but were turned back due to darkness and we had been on the route for several hours longer than necessary. It originally had a name of the Screamer gully because of the rockfall that came through it when it was not completely frozen solid.
Dean finally ticked it in fine style...won the honor to name it for good because of the first ascent and now we can just bow in silence to the master....many kudos to him for that climb.
Depending on the year, the gully fills up with ice better than other years, but it will always be a steep, gnarly testpiece for anyone attempting it...take your A-Game, because you will need it!!
Nice to see someone recording the information for everyone to share on a format that is clearer than a napkin at the Pickle in Arco--that's where we got our beta for our first North Face attempt in 1986.

Greg
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Bob
Bob

January 31st, 2011, 10:42 pm #8

Interesting stuff. I'm surprised to hear the forest cover has doubled since you first started visiting the area, was it timber mining or had that all ended long before then?
Luckily Rock Creek from the end of the old road/skid trail is a really great hike through open timber. Much different than other canyons on that side of the range.
I should have guessed it on Psycho Therapy, that looks like one to catch Dean's eye, I know it's caught mine every time I'm in that area and not because I want to climb it. Looks dirty and mean!
I believe it was used for mining and I thought I heard that it ran all the way over the saddle to Mahogany Creek at one time.

I have a couple of shots hanging on my wall that were taken from the notch on CO Ridge that look down into the west face drainage. One is from 1978 and the other from around 1998 and it is easy to spot the difference in tree growth/coverage. I guess I need to make another trip to the ridge to get a current photo so I can see what 33 years growth looks like.

I'm surprised more people haven't hiked the Rock Creek side of Mt Borah. It's one of the easiest approaches to a big alpine face that I've ever done. I followed John and Brian all the way to the start of the NF climb with just hiking boots on. In Canada they'd call it a class one approach for sure.
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Wes
Wes

February 1st, 2011, 12:09 am #9

Wes-
Photo was shot from Al West on our freezin' IdahoSummits outing. So mid-October, which explains the shade on the face.
I looked at a map and guessed it right. That's a prime spot for a long exposure night shot of the face, one of these days....
Greg, hats off too you for trying it twice, yikes! a couple years ago while skiing back there I watched a truckload of what looked like ice come off the route from somewhere up high, is there some hanging ice up there?
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Bob
Bob

February 1st, 2011, 1:14 am #10

I think that line has caught most everyone's eye for the past 30 years. As far as I know, it was originally attempted by Doug Colwell about 1985 or so, and I tried it a couple of times with an old climbing partner Kyle McFarley in the mid nineties. We made it to the crux pitch both times and over the crux pitch the second time but were turned back due to darkness and we had been on the route for several hours longer than necessary. It originally had a name of the Screamer gully because of the rockfall that came through it when it was not completely frozen solid.
Dean finally ticked it in fine style...won the honor to name it for good because of the first ascent and now we can just bow in silence to the master....many kudos to him for that climb.
Depending on the year, the gully fills up with ice better than other years, but it will always be a steep, gnarly testpiece for anyone attempting it...take your A-Game, because you will need it!!
Nice to see someone recording the information for everyone to share on a format that is clearer than a napkin at the Pickle in Arco--that's where we got our beta for our first North Face attempt in 1986.

Greg
Throughout the late 70s Psycho Therapy was ice from bottom to top and some of it appeared to be near verticle. There was even year round top-to-bottom ice in the couloirs that you walk by on the way up to CO Ridge. Now that the ice has melted out they look like grunge gullies but they held 10' thick water ice at one time. We never tried any of them because they didn't really go any where and we were too summit obsessed at the time.
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