Mustang Peak - North Buttress

Mustang Peak - North Buttress

pat
pat

August 14th, 2010, 3:44 am #1

My buddy, Nick, and I played hooky on Wednesday and snuck in a good one. We hopped on our bicyles at dawn and raced a phantom rainstorm up the north buttress of Mustang Peak from Wildhorse Campground. We summited before 11 AM. Fortunately, the weather held. We were lucky. The route was a beauty.

Mustang (aka Howard) Peak. The route goes up the center.


Getting steep


On the arete


Near the top


A good time was had by all.

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dave bingham
dave bingham

August 14th, 2010, 5:41 am #2

Ya, cool. My wife and I climbed it last Saturday. We avoided the gendarmed ridge from mid-way and 3rd classed the "1st scoop"to the right, gaining the main ridge just below the final steep bit, which we roped up for. Bikes on the approach sound like a good idea - I drove the Forester up and it was hellish!
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Joined: April 14th, 2005, 2:42 am

August 14th, 2010, 12:21 pm #3

My buddy, Nick, and I played hooky on Wednesday and snuck in a good one. We hopped on our bicyles at dawn and raced a phantom rainstorm up the north buttress of Mustang Peak from Wildhorse Campground. We summited before 11 AM. Fortunately, the weather held. We were lucky. The route was a beauty.

Mustang (aka Howard) Peak. The route goes up the center.


Getting steep


On the arete


Near the top


A good time was had by all.
Nice work, Pat. And great pics.

Although I've known you so long I feel I can read your mind , could you be a bit more descriptive than "goes up the center"?
You mention the buttress, and Dave mentions the "first scoop." Any more detail or clarification?
What would you rate your climb?

Thanks in advance, and Congrats.
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pat
pat

August 14th, 2010, 2:26 pm #4

John,

We did the route as Dave described. You scramble up to that little group of trees in the lower center of the first photo. Then you need to make a decision. Either go directly to the lower ridge crest which is exposed and definitely fifth class, or continue up the 3rd class terrain above the trees to a scoop farther up on the ridge (bypassing the lower ridge). We did the latter because we were expecting rain. The climbing becomes 4th class. After a few hundred feet the exposure starts to draw your attention. We roped up for the top 400 feet. I would call the route "low fifth class" ... maybe 5.4. Don't let the low rating fool you. It's pretty wild with "big air" on both sides. There are lots of variations possible.
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dave bingham
dave bingham

August 14th, 2010, 7:34 pm #5

Marc Hanselman of SMG gave me some beta also. You can add more 5th class climbing by going directly up the lower buttress via one of many possibilities, most looking to be lower 5th class. Above the lower buttress the ridge is less cliffy for a bit, then gets steep with gendarmes. We traversed 3rd class right, below a face, to the first shallow gully right of the main ridge. This "scoop" was mostly solid rock (not scree/dirt), and easy w/o a rope. The upper ridge changes in character to 5th class. I've heard it called 5.7. We climbed directly up the final spine (there are a lot of options)and thought 5.7 was right on in my approach shoes. The final pitch had a short steep bit with a move of about the same grade.

Next time I'd take one of the ribs or shallow gullys further right, which look to be 4th or easy 5th on solid rock with little loose scree/talus.
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Joined: January 15th, 2008, 6:19 am

August 14th, 2010, 7:51 pm #6

My buddy, Nick, and I played hooky on Wednesday and snuck in a good one. We hopped on our bicyles at dawn and raced a phantom rainstorm up the north buttress of Mustang Peak from Wildhorse Campground. We summited before 11 AM. Fortunately, the weather held. We were lucky. The route was a beauty.

Mustang (aka Howard) Peak. The route goes up the center.


Getting steep


On the arete


Near the top


A good time was had by all.
I noticed that there were a lot of dead trees in the background of some of your photos. Do you know what killed them? Fire? Pine Beetles?
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Anonymous
Anonymous

August 15th, 2010, 4:37 am #7

There was a fire there a few years ago
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crappyclimber
crappyclimber

August 15th, 2010, 4:45 am #8

My buddy, Nick, and I played hooky on Wednesday and snuck in a good one. We hopped on our bicyles at dawn and raced a phantom rainstorm up the north buttress of Mustang Peak from Wildhorse Campground. We summited before 11 AM. Fortunately, the weather held. We were lucky. The route was a beauty.

Mustang (aka Howard) Peak. The route goes up the center.


Getting steep


On the arete


Near the top


A good time was had by all.
That looks like a SWEET route--fun and just challenging enough to keep your head in the game with LOTS of air under your feet.
I'll definitely be putting this on my list--nice job and thanks for the pics!!
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