Finger of Fate TR and found gear

Finger of Fate TR and found gear

Joined: October 31st, 2011, 6:49 pm

June 24th, 2012, 11:14 pm #1

Climbed the Open Book route on the Finger of Fate yesterday. What a fun climb, and cool summit!

We found some practically new looking gear on the route that we collected. It looked like someone bailed from halfway up the second pitch. If the gear is yours email me with a description of what it is and I'll try to get it back to you, otherwise I'll consider it BOOTY!

Here are some pictures from yesterday:

Finger of Fate from Hell Roaring Lake, where the mosquitoes are out in full force


The FOF Above the unnamed lake to its east


There was still quite a bit of snow on the approach and descent, making travel in approach shoes tricky. Due to the hot weather it was soft enough to be manageable, but if we had gotten down later, or if it were colder, I would definitely have been wishing I'd brought an axe . . .


The route was composed of mostly excellent rock and splitter cracks. We linked the last two pitches into one SUPER pitch that started with an incredible hand crack, then an unprotected 5.5 slab to get you warmed up for the spicy finish: a 30 foot unprotected "boulder problem" to gain the top of the summit block. Except for the rope drag it was awesome! In this photo my friend Chris follows the excellent hand crack on pitch one.


Still plenty of snow to be skied in the Sawtooths . . .


The view from the summit
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Joined: April 14th, 2005, 2:42 am

June 25th, 2012, 1:39 am #2

Cory-
Nice TR and shots.
That's the best when you do a great climb AND come home with booty.

Couple questions:
Sometimes the snow is deep enough to cover what some think are the hardest moves, right off the ground. Have you done it dry to compare?
When you say you did a 30-foot boulder problem to summit, did you climb the left side or the right side in this picture?

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Joined: October 31st, 2011, 6:49 pm

June 25th, 2012, 2:26 am #3

The snow was certainly covering up a good portion of the beginning of the route, so I missed whatever climbing was down below. If the early moves are supposed to be hard, then they were bypassed by the snow, as I did the first half of the first pitch in my approach shoes after jumping over the moat between the snow and rock. There were a couple moves that got my attention a little ways up the first pitch involving some finger locks and not much for feet. When I got to these I decided to downclimb to a stance and switch into my climbing shoes.

As for the summit block I climbed the left arete. The crux was just the first couple moves. Once my feet were about 5 feet above the ledge all I had to do was deal with the massive exposure and make the progressively easier moves to the top. Actually I didn't notice when I was there, but from your picture it appears there may be another way on the right?
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Anonymous
Anonymous

June 25th, 2012, 2:35 am #4

Yeah, the traditional finish is on the right- a really slopy, chest-high mantle onto glacial polish with what seems like a drop straight to the ground. I've sen it rated 5.9 (not).
But the moves you made are way cool, too. As I recall, there's a bit of a barn door effect on the first move or two?
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Ray Brooks
Ray Brooks

June 25th, 2012, 3:41 am #5

First time up the Open Book on The Finger, was in 1972 with Harry & Chris. The "local-word" was that it was a 5.6.



Harry led the first pitch in his REI imitation RRs (Royal Robbins shoes the blue-suede shoes of the early 70s hard-men). He slipped and fell a couple feet at the hard part, but caught himself.

Chris led the jam-crack in his RRs and pounded in a couple bongs for protection.
I wore mountain boots that did not fit the jam-crack, and although I got up it, I was terrorized the whole way.




Five years later in 1967: my climbing ability was much improved, but the Open Book was still rated 5.6. Mike & I slept at the trailhead and trotted in with hiking boots. I had assured him we would not need rock shoes.

Bear in mind, this was the era of 150 ropes.

He led the first pitch, and mentioned loudly that it didnt feel like 5.6. When I followed, it did seem a bit stiff for a 5.6.

When I led the jam-crack lead in my hiking boots: I was just as terrorized as I had been 5 years earlier following it. The hiking boots stuck in the crack, but felt horribly wrong. I nearly fell off the traverse part at the end of the lead, because I could not smear in my boots.
We got up it!

Cant believe, Ive never climbed that route again. 5.8 for sure------- I hear.
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Joined: October 3rd, 2006, 6:10 pm

June 25th, 2012, 11:22 am #6

Climbed the Open Book route on the Finger of Fate yesterday. What a fun climb, and cool summit!

We found some practically new looking gear on the route that we collected. It looked like someone bailed from halfway up the second pitch. If the gear is yours email me with a description of what it is and I'll try to get it back to you, otherwise I'll consider it BOOTY!

Here are some pictures from yesterday:

Finger of Fate from Hell Roaring Lake, where the mosquitoes are out in full force


The FOF Above the unnamed lake to its east


There was still quite a bit of snow on the approach and descent, making travel in approach shoes tricky. Due to the hot weather it was soft enough to be manageable, but if we had gotten down later, or if it were colder, I would definitely have been wishing I'd brought an axe . . .


The route was composed of mostly excellent rock and splitter cracks. We linked the last two pitches into one SUPER pitch that started with an incredible hand crack, then an unprotected 5.5 slab to get you warmed up for the spicy finish: a 30 foot unprotected "boulder problem" to gain the top of the summit block. Except for the rope drag it was awesome! In this photo my friend Chris follows the excellent hand crack on pitch one.


Still plenty of snow to be skied in the Sawtooths . . .


The view from the summit
Cory,
Yep I'm personally offended you didn't invite me. LOL
Nice work by the way.
Make you a deal, we'll go do the North Face of Borah (Like we were going to do the night it dumped 8 inches).
Then you and I go run up the Mountaineer Route on the perch, or would you like to go back to the finger?
Kevin
kevin_likes_to_climb_much(at)hotmail(dot)com
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Joined: October 31st, 2011, 6:49 pm

June 25th, 2012, 1:56 pm #7

Sounds like a plan to me! I'd love to get up to the Elephant's Perch, as I've never been. There are also several other routes on the Finger of Fate that looked fun. Great rock quality on that thing!

Only problem is that I'm heading to Peru on Friday and will be gone for 3 weeks, so any other summer climbing will have to be done in August for me.

I'm thinking September would be a good time for Borah, with hopefully more ice and less snow, does that sound right?
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Joined: October 31st, 2011, 6:49 pm

June 25th, 2012, 1:59 pm #8

First time up the Open Book on The Finger, was in 1972 with Harry & Chris. The "local-word" was that it was a 5.6.



Harry led the first pitch in his REI imitation RRs (Royal Robbins shoes the blue-suede shoes of the early 70s hard-men). He slipped and fell a couple feet at the hard part, but caught himself.

Chris led the jam-crack in his RRs and pounded in a couple bongs for protection.
I wore mountain boots that did not fit the jam-crack, and although I got up it, I was terrorized the whole way.




Five years later in 1967: my climbing ability was much improved, but the Open Book was still rated 5.6. Mike & I slept at the trailhead and trotted in with hiking boots. I had assured him we would not need rock shoes.

Bear in mind, this was the era of 150 ropes.

He led the first pitch, and mentioned loudly that it didnt feel like 5.6. When I followed, it did seem a bit stiff for a 5.6.

When I led the jam-crack lead in my hiking boots: I was just as terrorized as I had been 5 years earlier following it. The hiking boots stuck in the crack, but felt horribly wrong. I nearly fell off the traverse part at the end of the lead, because I could not smear in my boots.
We got up it!

Cant believe, Ive never climbed that route again. 5.8 for sure------- I hear.
Nice history and photos! Must be neat to have done such a classic route so early!
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splattski
splattski

June 25th, 2012, 3:21 pm #9

Cory-
I think that is a really nice way to say "old"

But Ray, I feel your pain....
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Ray Brooks
Ray Brooks

June 25th, 2012, 3:31 pm #10

First time up the Open Book on The Finger, was in 1972 with Harry & Chris. The "local-word" was that it was a 5.6.



Harry led the first pitch in his REI imitation RRs (Royal Robbins shoes the blue-suede shoes of the early 70s hard-men). He slipped and fell a couple feet at the hard part, but caught himself.

Chris led the jam-crack in his RRs and pounded in a couple bongs for protection.
I wore mountain boots that did not fit the jam-crack, and although I got up it, I was terrorized the whole way.




Five years later in 1967: my climbing ability was much improved, but the Open Book was still rated 5.6. Mike & I slept at the trailhead and trotted in with hiking boots. I had assured him we would not need rock shoes.

Bear in mind, this was the era of 150 ropes.

He led the first pitch, and mentioned loudly that it didnt feel like 5.6. When I followed, it did seem a bit stiff for a 5.6.

When I led the jam-crack lead in my hiking boots: I was just as terrorized as I had been 5 years earlier following it. The hiking boots stuck in the crack, but felt horribly wrong. I nearly fell off the traverse part at the end of the lead, because I could not smear in my boots.
We got up it!

Cant believe, Ive never climbed that route again. 5.8 for sure------- I hear.
Darn! I do need an edit button for stuff I've already posted.

Our ascent of the Open Book was August 1971.

Here's a photo of me in one of the upper alternative routes. I recall leading this chimney without placing protection, so Harry & Chris could try the harder slab to the right with a top belay.

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