What am I doing wrong Transparencies.

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What am I doing wrong Transparencies.

Joined: July 7th, 2006, 3:39 pm

April 26th, 2012, 9:54 am #1

I have just finished a 1/72nd Spitfire MKV and yet again the only thing that disappoints me are the cocpit transparencies.

I firstly get the interior done and dust free.

The transparencies are checked for fit.

I clean and polish the transparencies.

I dip them in Future/Kleer shake off and allow to cure. They look great.

I fit them using super glue.

I then mask them and use a brand new pointed scalpel to mask them with Tamiya tape.

The model is then painted, decalled and given its final coat of varnish.

I carefully remove the masking. I then use a cotton wool bud to remove any glue.

They look like crap. Dull and there are always blemishes.

What can I do to remedy this.

Ron
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Joined: April 27th, 2006, 9:56 pm

April 26th, 2012, 10:08 am #2

but might you be using old Future? It lasts a long time, but I do find I periodically (every few years) need a fresh bottle. Alternately, have you ever tried a final brushed-on coat of Future on the finished, installed canopy? this has worked for me on occasions when the initial coat looked bad after the masking was removed.
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Joined: April 21st, 2006, 6:55 pm

April 26th, 2012, 10:13 am #3

you've removed every last trace of Tamiya tape adhesive? It can sometimes stick stubbornly, especially if the tape has been in place for more than a week.
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Joined: March 5th, 2005, 12:52 am

April 26th, 2012, 10:15 am #4

I have just finished a 1/72nd Spitfire MKV and yet again the only thing that disappoints me are the cocpit transparencies.

I firstly get the interior done and dust free.

The transparencies are checked for fit.

I clean and polish the transparencies.

I dip them in Future/Kleer shake off and allow to cure. They look great.

I fit them using super glue.

I then mask them and use a brand new pointed scalpel to mask them with Tamiya tape.

The model is then painted, decalled and given its final coat of varnish.

I carefully remove the masking. I then use a cotton wool bud to remove any glue.

They look like crap. Dull and there are always blemishes.

What can I do to remedy this.

Ron
I like your approach and sequence. It seems you're doing everything in a way which should yield great results.
But, since the outcome isn't what you should be getting, let's do some troubleshooting.
Since you're reporting blemishes at the end of the process, can you tell whether they're on the outside surface of the Future-coated canopy/windscreen or on the inside?
If they're on the outside, my guess is that you're using a lacquer-based final coat and the solvent may be penetrating the Tamiya paper-based tape and causing the blemishes. Switching to an acrylic based topcoat may be the cure. Sealing the Tamiya tape with a coat of Future might also be a way to form a solvent barrier. Likewise, top-coating the blemishes with Future applied carefully by brush may take care of them.
If they're on the inside, using superglue to fasten the canopy/windscreen may be producing fogging, even with the Future bath. Yeah, I know the dip in Future is supposed to prevent fogging with ACC-type glues, but you might try switching to one of the water-based glues, everything from basic Elmer's to Microsol's Krystal Klear.
If all else fails, you also might consider changing your build sequence so you're doing all the assembly, painting, decaling before adding the canopy/windscreen, and adding them at the end.
FrankB
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Joined: February 27th, 2005, 6:29 am

April 26th, 2012, 11:05 am #5

I have just finished a 1/72nd Spitfire MKV and yet again the only thing that disappoints me are the cocpit transparencies.

I firstly get the interior done and dust free.

The transparencies are checked for fit.

I clean and polish the transparencies.

I dip them in Future/Kleer shake off and allow to cure. They look great.

I fit them using super glue.

I then mask them and use a brand new pointed scalpel to mask them with Tamiya tape.

The model is then painted, decalled and given its final coat of varnish.

I carefully remove the masking. I then use a cotton wool bud to remove any glue.

They look like crap. Dull and there are always blemishes.

What can I do to remedy this.

Ron
Stop using the future. Polish the canopies at the end if the process using a soft cotton rag and, if you need it, polishing compound. I gave up using future for two reasons: 1. I would often get the result you've described; and 2. Future sometimes distorts the view through a canopy even though it may look nice and shiny from a few feet away.

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Joined: July 7th, 2006, 3:39 pm

April 26th, 2012, 11:15 am #6

you've removed every last trace of Tamiya tape adhesive? It can sometimes stick stubbornly, especially if the tape has been in place for more than a week.
as a solvent for the glue without causing damage to the canopy or painted frames line?

Ron
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Joined: July 7th, 2006, 3:39 pm

April 26th, 2012, 11:19 am #7

I like your approach and sequence. It seems you're doing everything in a way which should yield great results.
But, since the outcome isn't what you should be getting, let's do some troubleshooting.
Since you're reporting blemishes at the end of the process, can you tell whether they're on the outside surface of the Future-coated canopy/windscreen or on the inside?
If they're on the outside, my guess is that you're using a lacquer-based final coat and the solvent may be penetrating the Tamiya paper-based tape and causing the blemishes. Switching to an acrylic based topcoat may be the cure. Sealing the Tamiya tape with a coat of Future might also be a way to form a solvent barrier. Likewise, top-coating the blemishes with Future applied carefully by brush may take care of them.
If they're on the inside, using superglue to fasten the canopy/windscreen may be producing fogging, even with the Future bath. Yeah, I know the dip in Future is supposed to prevent fogging with ACC-type glues, but you might try switching to one of the water-based glues, everything from basic Elmer's to Microsol's Krystal Klear.
If all else fails, you also might consider changing your build sequence so you're doing all the assembly, painting, decaling before adding the canopy/windscreen, and adding them at the end.
FrankB
I had far better results putting the transparencies in last but the transparencies always tended to look like a bit of an afterthought having not been 'blended in' during the primer, paint, varnish sequence.

Ron
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Joined: April 25th, 2011, 2:27 pm

April 26th, 2012, 11:32 am #8

Stop using the future. Polish the canopies at the end if the process using a soft cotton rag and, if you need it, polishing compound. I gave up using future for two reasons: 1. I would often get the result you've described; and 2. Future sometimes distorts the view through a canopy even though it may look nice and shiny from a few feet away.

David's Model Pages

David's Model Pages on Facebook -https://www.facebook.com/modelscale
White glue will hold ur canopy on just fine UNLESS you stress test the hold!! It will come off before the plastic breaks!! LOL!!

Bo
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Joined: December 12th, 2007, 2:51 am

April 26th, 2012, 12:05 pm #9

I have just finished a 1/72nd Spitfire MKV and yet again the only thing that disappoints me are the cocpit transparencies.

I firstly get the interior done and dust free.

The transparencies are checked for fit.

I clean and polish the transparencies.

I dip them in Future/Kleer shake off and allow to cure. They look great.

I fit them using super glue.

I then mask them and use a brand new pointed scalpel to mask them with Tamiya tape.

The model is then painted, decalled and given its final coat of varnish.

I carefully remove the masking. I then use a cotton wool bud to remove any glue.

They look like crap. Dull and there are always blemishes.

What can I do to remedy this.

Ron
If for nothing else than there's less area for adhesion but the CA glue is still same strength. The potency of the fumes is greater.

To maintain good sticky I will spot-glue with CA, (like at the corners and apex) let it cure so the clear bits are firm, then follow up with a 2-part epoxy glue.
I did this on the greenhouse vac canopy for my Auster with no hassles.
To keep the epoxy under control I mask with tape close to both sides of the join. Sure, it takes more time but the advantage is the epoxy's thicker than CA. Once set - and leaving tape in place - it's a simple task to gently file/sand back to flush.
You know you're close to the surface when the tape disappears. Finish the joint with 1200-1500 grit wet-n-dry, polish and re-Future where you've sanded.
Sandpaper wrapped over round balsa stock, or a narrow eraser, for a sanding block ensures minimal or no collateral damage.

Tape residue has never given me problems on a Future'd canopy. If you can find some it's called "Goo Gone", or similar, and great for cleaning up residue.
Doesn't affect Future. Top be safe you'd do well to rinse off the Goo Gone with warm, soapy water.

Probably a tad more than you're willing to do, I'd bet!
Still, we only find our particular ways and means empirically.



Happy hunting.

Ross
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Joined: February 27th, 2005, 8:56 pm

April 26th, 2012, 12:11 pm #10

White glue will hold ur canopy on just fine UNLESS you stress test the hold!! It will come off before the plastic breaks!! LOL!!

Bo
Try swapping BMF for the Tamiya Tape. The tape works. BMF works better.

Apply BMF. Use sharp blade to cut mask. Remove unwanted BMF.

After gluing canopy on, work the canopy seams. Paint. Let paint cure.

After cured, run a sharp blade over the masks to cut paint cleanly.

Remove BMF. You will have glue residue.

Lightly spray end of a q-tip with WD-40. Rub glue residue area with q-tip.

Canopy will now be clean and shiny.
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