Tunnan pt 7 ... finished (thank god)

.

Tunnan pt 7 ... finished (thank god)

Joined: August 9th, 2008, 7:19 am

August 10th, 2012, 2:21 pm #1

Before we go any further there will be a public service announcement ...

In the world of modelling (according to Neil) it has been officially decided that ... Gunze Sangyo Mr Metal paint is useless. (note: doesn't apply to Mr Super Metal as I haven't tried that)

I've now discovered that you can't mask over it either. Previously I'd sprayed 2 coats of Klear on top of the Mr Metal paint and that seemed to seal it. I then decided to mask some panels and do some shading but as soon as I put the Tamiya masking tape down (which is lo-tack) and took it off to move it a bit, it pulled off the Klear. And it hadn't even been rubbed down onto the surface at this point. Luckily I tested it on the u/side first so I could get away with it but you can see where I removed the tape in this pic



So, the summary of Mr Metal paint is:

1. Mr Metal Aluminium doesn't look like Aluminium
2. It never fully dries
3. You can't buff it properly
4. You can't spray over it
5. You can't mask over it


As you can imagine I was not a happy bunny at this point so I decided just to get the bl**dy finished and off the bench. Björn's older Heller decals were tried first and considering their age they went on beautifully, so I used the rest of the sheet and all was well ... until I put Microsol on them. It had no effect whatsoever, nothing would soften the decals so I cut the decals to help bed them down into the panel lines and put more Microsol on them, they crinkled upwards and stayed there.

After a bit of a panic I managed to get them uncrinkled with Klear but I gave up trying to bed them down after that. I also wasn't going to risk doing a panel wash either so I used a pencil to darken the panel lines and then sprayed the model with Vallejo matt varnish, the stuff you get in the small pipette bottle.

Using this varnish was a bonus, not only does it dry matt but it tones down whatever colour is underneath, so it toned down the metal finish even further, which seems to have brought the finish closer to Aluminium.

I added the wheels, aerial, pitots (15amp fuse wire), landing light and jet pipe and called it a day, or so I thought. In the process of photographing it, a spray can decided to fall on the model, knocking the Tunnan to the floor. "Oh bother" I said, but the Swedes make their aircraft strong and the only damage was the canopy popped loose and a pitot got bent which, being fuse wire, was easily bent back. Thank god I didn't use needles for pitots...

Not one of my best efforts but at least I did learn not to use Mr Metal paints

Thanks to Björn for the decals. The last pic shows the Tunnan beside the new Airfix Hurricane (some of you may remember this from last year) for size camparison purposes.











Neil

If you wake up in the morning feeling like you've had it, be grateful.

http://www.neilscrim.co.uk
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Joined: June 11th, 2011, 9:54 pm

August 10th, 2012, 4:37 pm #2

You have a nice clean build on your hands. So what if it doesn't look like a scratched and worn natural metal finish. It still looks like a Swedish SAAB, kinda ugly and functional, just like old SAAB cars. Adios, Larry.

Field Artillery brings dignity to what otherwise might be merely a vulgar brawl.
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Joined: February 27th, 2005, 4:20 am

August 10th, 2012, 8:45 pm #3

Before we go any further there will be a public service announcement ...

In the world of modelling (according to Neil) it has been officially decided that ... Gunze Sangyo Mr Metal paint is useless. (note: doesn't apply to Mr Super Metal as I haven't tried that)

I've now discovered that you can't mask over it either. Previously I'd sprayed 2 coats of Klear on top of the Mr Metal paint and that seemed to seal it. I then decided to mask some panels and do some shading but as soon as I put the Tamiya masking tape down (which is lo-tack) and took it off to move it a bit, it pulled off the Klear. And it hadn't even been rubbed down onto the surface at this point. Luckily I tested it on the u/side first so I could get away with it but you can see where I removed the tape in this pic



So, the summary of Mr Metal paint is:

1. Mr Metal Aluminium doesn't look like Aluminium
2. It never fully dries
3. You can't buff it properly
4. You can't spray over it
5. You can't mask over it


As you can imagine I was not a happy bunny at this point so I decided just to get the bl**dy finished and off the bench. Björn's older Heller decals were tried first and considering their age they went on beautifully, so I used the rest of the sheet and all was well ... until I put Microsol on them. It had no effect whatsoever, nothing would soften the decals so I cut the decals to help bed them down into the panel lines and put more Microsol on them, they crinkled upwards and stayed there.

After a bit of a panic I managed to get them uncrinkled with Klear but I gave up trying to bed them down after that. I also wasn't going to risk doing a panel wash either so I used a pencil to darken the panel lines and then sprayed the model with Vallejo matt varnish, the stuff you get in the small pipette bottle.

Using this varnish was a bonus, not only does it dry matt but it tones down whatever colour is underneath, so it toned down the metal finish even further, which seems to have brought the finish closer to Aluminium.

I added the wheels, aerial, pitots (15amp fuse wire), landing light and jet pipe and called it a day, or so I thought. In the process of photographing it, a spray can decided to fall on the model, knocking the Tunnan to the floor. "Oh bother" I said, but the Swedes make their aircraft strong and the only damage was the canopy popped loose and a pitot got bent which, being fuse wire, was easily bent back. Thank god I didn't use needles for pitots...

Not one of my best efforts but at least I did learn not to use Mr Metal paints

Thanks to Björn for the decals. The last pic shows the Tunnan beside the new Airfix Hurricane (some of you may remember this from last year) for size camparison purposes.











Neil

If you wake up in the morning feeling like you've had it, be grateful.

http://www.neilscrim.co.uk
Looks really good Neil, despite your struggles; very clean and sharp. I've not had quite the same issues you did with Gunze metallics but they're no match for Alclad.
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Joined: November 30th, 2010, 5:06 am

August 10th, 2012, 9:34 pm #4

Before we go any further there will be a public service announcement ...

In the world of modelling (according to Neil) it has been officially decided that ... Gunze Sangyo Mr Metal paint is useless. (note: doesn't apply to Mr Super Metal as I haven't tried that)

I've now discovered that you can't mask over it either. Previously I'd sprayed 2 coats of Klear on top of the Mr Metal paint and that seemed to seal it. I then decided to mask some panels and do some shading but as soon as I put the Tamiya masking tape down (which is lo-tack) and took it off to move it a bit, it pulled off the Klear. And it hadn't even been rubbed down onto the surface at this point. Luckily I tested it on the u/side first so I could get away with it but you can see where I removed the tape in this pic



So, the summary of Mr Metal paint is:

1. Mr Metal Aluminium doesn't look like Aluminium
2. It never fully dries
3. You can't buff it properly
4. You can't spray over it
5. You can't mask over it


As you can imagine I was not a happy bunny at this point so I decided just to get the bl**dy finished and off the bench. Björn's older Heller decals were tried first and considering their age they went on beautifully, so I used the rest of the sheet and all was well ... until I put Microsol on them. It had no effect whatsoever, nothing would soften the decals so I cut the decals to help bed them down into the panel lines and put more Microsol on them, they crinkled upwards and stayed there.

After a bit of a panic I managed to get them uncrinkled with Klear but I gave up trying to bed them down after that. I also wasn't going to risk doing a panel wash either so I used a pencil to darken the panel lines and then sprayed the model with Vallejo matt varnish, the stuff you get in the small pipette bottle.

Using this varnish was a bonus, not only does it dry matt but it tones down whatever colour is underneath, so it toned down the metal finish even further, which seems to have brought the finish closer to Aluminium.

I added the wheels, aerial, pitots (15amp fuse wire), landing light and jet pipe and called it a day, or so I thought. In the process of photographing it, a spray can decided to fall on the model, knocking the Tunnan to the floor. "Oh bother" I said, but the Swedes make their aircraft strong and the only damage was the canopy popped loose and a pitot got bent which, being fuse wire, was easily bent back. Thank god I didn't use needles for pitots...

Not one of my best efforts but at least I did learn not to use Mr Metal paints

Thanks to Björn for the decals. The last pic shows the Tunnan beside the new Airfix Hurricane (some of you may remember this from last year) for size camparison purposes.











Neil

If you wake up in the morning feeling like you've had it, be grateful.

http://www.neilscrim.co.uk
I sure think it's nice....
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Joined: July 8th, 2008, 10:57 am

August 11th, 2012, 5:02 am #5

Before we go any further there will be a public service announcement ...

In the world of modelling (according to Neil) it has been officially decided that ... Gunze Sangyo Mr Metal paint is useless. (note: doesn't apply to Mr Super Metal as I haven't tried that)

I've now discovered that you can't mask over it either. Previously I'd sprayed 2 coats of Klear on top of the Mr Metal paint and that seemed to seal it. I then decided to mask some panels and do some shading but as soon as I put the Tamiya masking tape down (which is lo-tack) and took it off to move it a bit, it pulled off the Klear. And it hadn't even been rubbed down onto the surface at this point. Luckily I tested it on the u/side first so I could get away with it but you can see where I removed the tape in this pic



So, the summary of Mr Metal paint is:

1. Mr Metal Aluminium doesn't look like Aluminium
2. It never fully dries
3. You can't buff it properly
4. You can't spray over it
5. You can't mask over it


As you can imagine I was not a happy bunny at this point so I decided just to get the bl**dy finished and off the bench. Björn's older Heller decals were tried first and considering their age they went on beautifully, so I used the rest of the sheet and all was well ... until I put Microsol on them. It had no effect whatsoever, nothing would soften the decals so I cut the decals to help bed them down into the panel lines and put more Microsol on them, they crinkled upwards and stayed there.

After a bit of a panic I managed to get them uncrinkled with Klear but I gave up trying to bed them down after that. I also wasn't going to risk doing a panel wash either so I used a pencil to darken the panel lines and then sprayed the model with Vallejo matt varnish, the stuff you get in the small pipette bottle.

Using this varnish was a bonus, not only does it dry matt but it tones down whatever colour is underneath, so it toned down the metal finish even further, which seems to have brought the finish closer to Aluminium.

I added the wheels, aerial, pitots (15amp fuse wire), landing light and jet pipe and called it a day, or so I thought. In the process of photographing it, a spray can decided to fall on the model, knocking the Tunnan to the floor. "Oh bother" I said, but the Swedes make their aircraft strong and the only damage was the canopy popped loose and a pitot got bent which, being fuse wire, was easily bent back. Thank god I didn't use needles for pitots...

Not one of my best efforts but at least I did learn not to use Mr Metal paints

Thanks to Björn for the decals. The last pic shows the Tunnan beside the new Airfix Hurricane (some of you may remember this from last year) for size camparison purposes.











Neil

If you wake up in the morning feeling like you've had it, be grateful.

http://www.neilscrim.co.uk
Nice sharp build, which, after the crying and cussing is over, is what really counts.

And yummy looking Hurricane too!

Stuart
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Joined: April 26th, 2006, 10:40 pm

August 11th, 2012, 3:31 pm #6

Before we go any further there will be a public service announcement ...

In the world of modelling (according to Neil) it has been officially decided that ... Gunze Sangyo Mr Metal paint is useless. (note: doesn't apply to Mr Super Metal as I haven't tried that)

I've now discovered that you can't mask over it either. Previously I'd sprayed 2 coats of Klear on top of the Mr Metal paint and that seemed to seal it. I then decided to mask some panels and do some shading but as soon as I put the Tamiya masking tape down (which is lo-tack) and took it off to move it a bit, it pulled off the Klear. And it hadn't even been rubbed down onto the surface at this point. Luckily I tested it on the u/side first so I could get away with it but you can see where I removed the tape in this pic



So, the summary of Mr Metal paint is:

1. Mr Metal Aluminium doesn't look like Aluminium
2. It never fully dries
3. You can't buff it properly
4. You can't spray over it
5. You can't mask over it


As you can imagine I was not a happy bunny at this point so I decided just to get the bl**dy finished and off the bench. Björn's older Heller decals were tried first and considering their age they went on beautifully, so I used the rest of the sheet and all was well ... until I put Microsol on them. It had no effect whatsoever, nothing would soften the decals so I cut the decals to help bed them down into the panel lines and put more Microsol on them, they crinkled upwards and stayed there.

After a bit of a panic I managed to get them uncrinkled with Klear but I gave up trying to bed them down after that. I also wasn't going to risk doing a panel wash either so I used a pencil to darken the panel lines and then sprayed the model with Vallejo matt varnish, the stuff you get in the small pipette bottle.

Using this varnish was a bonus, not only does it dry matt but it tones down whatever colour is underneath, so it toned down the metal finish even further, which seems to have brought the finish closer to Aluminium.

I added the wheels, aerial, pitots (15amp fuse wire), landing light and jet pipe and called it a day, or so I thought. In the process of photographing it, a spray can decided to fall on the model, knocking the Tunnan to the floor. "Oh bother" I said, but the Swedes make their aircraft strong and the only damage was the canopy popped loose and a pitot got bent which, being fuse wire, was easily bent back. Thank god I didn't use needles for pitots...

Not one of my best efforts but at least I did learn not to use Mr Metal paints

Thanks to Björn for the decals. The last pic shows the Tunnan beside the new Airfix Hurricane (some of you may remember this from last year) for size camparison purposes.











Neil

If you wake up in the morning feeling like you've had it, be grateful.

http://www.neilscrim.co.uk
I'm apprehensive about trying out those metallic coatings, is why I make do with Testor's chrome enamel paint.
Great looking Hurry, can we ever get tired of SEAC markings?

Thanks,
Allan

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

Multiple Mosquito Build, 1/72: Intro Part 1 Part 1.5 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5 Part 6 Part 7 Part 8 Fini

Fathers Day A6M2: Intro Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5 Part 6 Finish

Airfix Stuka 1/72: Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5 Part 6 Part 7 Finish

Airfix Hurricane 1/72: Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5 Part 6 Part 7 Part 8 Finish

Airfix Orion III: Build Tutorial Finish
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Joined: June 13th, 2009, 11:31 pm

August 11th, 2012, 9:39 pm #7

Before we go any further there will be a public service announcement ...

In the world of modelling (according to Neil) it has been officially decided that ... Gunze Sangyo Mr Metal paint is useless. (note: doesn't apply to Mr Super Metal as I haven't tried that)

I've now discovered that you can't mask over it either. Previously I'd sprayed 2 coats of Klear on top of the Mr Metal paint and that seemed to seal it. I then decided to mask some panels and do some shading but as soon as I put the Tamiya masking tape down (which is lo-tack) and took it off to move it a bit, it pulled off the Klear. And it hadn't even been rubbed down onto the surface at this point. Luckily I tested it on the u/side first so I could get away with it but you can see where I removed the tape in this pic



So, the summary of Mr Metal paint is:

1. Mr Metal Aluminium doesn't look like Aluminium
2. It never fully dries
3. You can't buff it properly
4. You can't spray over it
5. You can't mask over it


As you can imagine I was not a happy bunny at this point so I decided just to get the bl**dy finished and off the bench. Björn's older Heller decals were tried first and considering their age they went on beautifully, so I used the rest of the sheet and all was well ... until I put Microsol on them. It had no effect whatsoever, nothing would soften the decals so I cut the decals to help bed them down into the panel lines and put more Microsol on them, they crinkled upwards and stayed there.

After a bit of a panic I managed to get them uncrinkled with Klear but I gave up trying to bed them down after that. I also wasn't going to risk doing a panel wash either so I used a pencil to darken the panel lines and then sprayed the model with Vallejo matt varnish, the stuff you get in the small pipette bottle.

Using this varnish was a bonus, not only does it dry matt but it tones down whatever colour is underneath, so it toned down the metal finish even further, which seems to have brought the finish closer to Aluminium.

I added the wheels, aerial, pitots (15amp fuse wire), landing light and jet pipe and called it a day, or so I thought. In the process of photographing it, a spray can decided to fall on the model, knocking the Tunnan to the floor. "Oh bother" I said, but the Swedes make their aircraft strong and the only damage was the canopy popped loose and a pitot got bent which, being fuse wire, was easily bent back. Thank god I didn't use needles for pitots...

Not one of my best efforts but at least I did learn not to use Mr Metal paints

Thanks to Björn for the decals. The last pic shows the Tunnan beside the new Airfix Hurricane (some of you may remember this from last year) for size camparison purposes.











Neil

If you wake up in the morning feeling like you've had it, be grateful.

http://www.neilscrim.co.uk
It is a very nice model you have built ....... nt
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Joined: July 27th, 2009, 4:13 pm

August 13th, 2012, 4:29 am #8

Before we go any further there will be a public service announcement ...

In the world of modelling (according to Neil) it has been officially decided that ... Gunze Sangyo Mr Metal paint is useless. (note: doesn't apply to Mr Super Metal as I haven't tried that)

I've now discovered that you can't mask over it either. Previously I'd sprayed 2 coats of Klear on top of the Mr Metal paint and that seemed to seal it. I then decided to mask some panels and do some shading but as soon as I put the Tamiya masking tape down (which is lo-tack) and took it off to move it a bit, it pulled off the Klear. And it hadn't even been rubbed down onto the surface at this point. Luckily I tested it on the u/side first so I could get away with it but you can see where I removed the tape in this pic



So, the summary of Mr Metal paint is:

1. Mr Metal Aluminium doesn't look like Aluminium
2. It never fully dries
3. You can't buff it properly
4. You can't spray over it
5. You can't mask over it


As you can imagine I was not a happy bunny at this point so I decided just to get the bl**dy finished and off the bench. Björn's older Heller decals were tried first and considering their age they went on beautifully, so I used the rest of the sheet and all was well ... until I put Microsol on them. It had no effect whatsoever, nothing would soften the decals so I cut the decals to help bed them down into the panel lines and put more Microsol on them, they crinkled upwards and stayed there.

After a bit of a panic I managed to get them uncrinkled with Klear but I gave up trying to bed them down after that. I also wasn't going to risk doing a panel wash either so I used a pencil to darken the panel lines and then sprayed the model with Vallejo matt varnish, the stuff you get in the small pipette bottle.

Using this varnish was a bonus, not only does it dry matt but it tones down whatever colour is underneath, so it toned down the metal finish even further, which seems to have brought the finish closer to Aluminium.

I added the wheels, aerial, pitots (15amp fuse wire), landing light and jet pipe and called it a day, or so I thought. In the process of photographing it, a spray can decided to fall on the model, knocking the Tunnan to the floor. "Oh bother" I said, but the Swedes make their aircraft strong and the only damage was the canopy popped loose and a pitot got bent which, being fuse wire, was easily bent back. Thank god I didn't use needles for pitots...

Not one of my best efforts but at least I did learn not to use Mr Metal paints

Thanks to Björn for the decals. The last pic shows the Tunnan beside the new Airfix Hurricane (some of you may remember this from last year) for size camparison purposes.











Neil

If you wake up in the morning feeling like you've had it, be grateful.

http://www.neilscrim.co.uk
...full marks for sticking with it to the finish! Finished result sure looks nice and shows it was all worth it.

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Joined: January 28th, 2007, 3:49 pm

August 13th, 2012, 12:37 pm #9

Before we go any further there will be a public service announcement ...

In the world of modelling (according to Neil) it has been officially decided that ... Gunze Sangyo Mr Metal paint is useless. (note: doesn't apply to Mr Super Metal as I haven't tried that)

I've now discovered that you can't mask over it either. Previously I'd sprayed 2 coats of Klear on top of the Mr Metal paint and that seemed to seal it. I then decided to mask some panels and do some shading but as soon as I put the Tamiya masking tape down (which is lo-tack) and took it off to move it a bit, it pulled off the Klear. And it hadn't even been rubbed down onto the surface at this point. Luckily I tested it on the u/side first so I could get away with it but you can see where I removed the tape in this pic



So, the summary of Mr Metal paint is:

1. Mr Metal Aluminium doesn't look like Aluminium
2. It never fully dries
3. You can't buff it properly
4. You can't spray over it
5. You can't mask over it


As you can imagine I was not a happy bunny at this point so I decided just to get the bl**dy finished and off the bench. Björn's older Heller decals were tried first and considering their age they went on beautifully, so I used the rest of the sheet and all was well ... until I put Microsol on them. It had no effect whatsoever, nothing would soften the decals so I cut the decals to help bed them down into the panel lines and put more Microsol on them, they crinkled upwards and stayed there.

After a bit of a panic I managed to get them uncrinkled with Klear but I gave up trying to bed them down after that. I also wasn't going to risk doing a panel wash either so I used a pencil to darken the panel lines and then sprayed the model with Vallejo matt varnish, the stuff you get in the small pipette bottle.

Using this varnish was a bonus, not only does it dry matt but it tones down whatever colour is underneath, so it toned down the metal finish even further, which seems to have brought the finish closer to Aluminium.

I added the wheels, aerial, pitots (15amp fuse wire), landing light and jet pipe and called it a day, or so I thought. In the process of photographing it, a spray can decided to fall on the model, knocking the Tunnan to the floor. "Oh bother" I said, but the Swedes make their aircraft strong and the only damage was the canopy popped loose and a pitot got bent which, being fuse wire, was easily bent back. Thank god I didn't use needles for pitots...

Not one of my best efforts but at least I did learn not to use Mr Metal paints

Thanks to Björn for the decals. The last pic shows the Tunnan beside the new Airfix Hurricane (some of you may remember this from last year) for size camparison purposes.











Neil

If you wake up in the morning feeling like you've had it, be grateful.

http://www.neilscrim.co.uk
And if you met any troble with mr metal it does not show in the model. Personally i have always some sort of problem with metallic shades. I have tried most of available techniques and color brand. Eventually the most cost and time effective approach is in using tamyia spray can (particularly the duraluminium shade). I am lazy, i know. But tamyia never really let me down
Cheers
Luigi
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Joined: October 9th, 2011, 2:39 pm

August 13th, 2012, 4:58 pm #10

Before we go any further there will be a public service announcement ...

In the world of modelling (according to Neil) it has been officially decided that ... Gunze Sangyo Mr Metal paint is useless. (note: doesn't apply to Mr Super Metal as I haven't tried that)

I've now discovered that you can't mask over it either. Previously I'd sprayed 2 coats of Klear on top of the Mr Metal paint and that seemed to seal it. I then decided to mask some panels and do some shading but as soon as I put the Tamiya masking tape down (which is lo-tack) and took it off to move it a bit, it pulled off the Klear. And it hadn't even been rubbed down onto the surface at this point. Luckily I tested it on the u/side first so I could get away with it but you can see where I removed the tape in this pic



So, the summary of Mr Metal paint is:

1. Mr Metal Aluminium doesn't look like Aluminium
2. It never fully dries
3. You can't buff it properly
4. You can't spray over it
5. You can't mask over it


As you can imagine I was not a happy bunny at this point so I decided just to get the bl**dy finished and off the bench. Björn's older Heller decals were tried first and considering their age they went on beautifully, so I used the rest of the sheet and all was well ... until I put Microsol on them. It had no effect whatsoever, nothing would soften the decals so I cut the decals to help bed them down into the panel lines and put more Microsol on them, they crinkled upwards and stayed there.

After a bit of a panic I managed to get them uncrinkled with Klear but I gave up trying to bed them down after that. I also wasn't going to risk doing a panel wash either so I used a pencil to darken the panel lines and then sprayed the model with Vallejo matt varnish, the stuff you get in the small pipette bottle.

Using this varnish was a bonus, not only does it dry matt but it tones down whatever colour is underneath, so it toned down the metal finish even further, which seems to have brought the finish closer to Aluminium.

I added the wheels, aerial, pitots (15amp fuse wire), landing light and jet pipe and called it a day, or so I thought. In the process of photographing it, a spray can decided to fall on the model, knocking the Tunnan to the floor. "Oh bother" I said, but the Swedes make their aircraft strong and the only damage was the canopy popped loose and a pitot got bent which, being fuse wire, was easily bent back. Thank god I didn't use needles for pitots...

Not one of my best efforts but at least I did learn not to use Mr Metal paints

Thanks to Björn for the decals. The last pic shows the Tunnan beside the new Airfix Hurricane (some of you may remember this from last year) for size camparison purposes.











Neil

If you wake up in the morning feeling like you've had it, be grateful.

http://www.neilscrim.co.uk
Great job on your Tunnan, lovin' it. A pity you don't see more of them built as it is a cool looking classic Swedish jet. Nice job on the metallic finish and the panel lines as well and your Hurricane looks very nice as well.
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