How to attach windscreen/shield and windows, please?

.

How to attach windscreen/shield and windows, please?

Joined: February 27th, 2005, 12:06 am

October 28th, 2011, 6:42 pm #1

I am not a car modeller but just committed myself to building two old Airfix 1/32 gems - the Mini and the Zodiac MkIII.

I remember messing up cars in the 70s when I last built one when I attached the windows. I want them to be glued in good and securely after painting the body shells.

Do I just use Humbrol Clearfix or Kristal Klear? Or is there a better solution, please.

David
Last edited by dwomby on October 28th, 2011, 6:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
David Womby, Florida.
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Joined: February 24th, 2002, 12:50 pm

October 29th, 2011, 2:20 am #2

I don't know exactly how the windows attach in your kits, but I'll use several different methods, depending on circumstances.

I've used white glues, clear epoxy, liquid cement, fumeless superglues, and maybe even a couple other things. Just about everything BUT tube "model glue."

For typical American model cars with one-piece glass (front and rear connected typically with two "runners"), I ususally just tape them in with masking tape and then paint the masking tape with the rest of the "headliner." This way if I ever want to strip and repaint the body, removing the glass is no trouble at all.





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Last edited by Snake45 on October 29th, 2011, 2:21 am, edited 1 time in total.
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David Womby
David Womby

October 29th, 2011, 4:34 pm #3

Front windshield, rear window and two side windows - 4 separate pieces to glue into the car body from below.

David
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Anonymous
Anonymous

October 29th, 2011, 9:18 pm #4

but it's just basically white glue. Be careful of super glues, they can fog the glass, Honestly, I think I'd just use the white glue. If you get some on the windows and notice it, it washes right off... If you don't, it dries mostly clear.

The Testor Window glue (comes in a squeeze bottle with a needle tip, be careful, so can their liquid model glue) and dries crystal clear. You can MAKE windows with it.

For what it's worth!
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Joined: August 12th, 2004, 3:14 pm

October 29th, 2011, 11:21 pm #5

Front windshield, rear window and two side windows - 4 separate pieces to glue into the car body from below.

David
I would use either Hypo Cement, whcih is a clear watch crystal glue available at Hobby Lobby (Michaels used to sell it) or liquid cement.

Liquid cement like Tamiya Extra Thin is very neat. Glue the windows into the unpainted body CAREFULLY. Just a drop of glue off the pointed brush will capillary action around the glass, holding it in place.

The trouble with the Testors stuff is that the windows can pop out and then you are screwed.

If you did get a glue mark on the window do not touch it. Let it dry totally, then buff it out. A dip in Future will make the clear plastic brigher than new anyway.

Likewise a dip in Future keeps CA glue from fogging clear parts and will also remove CA glue fogging if that happened on an un-dipped window.
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Anonymous
Anonymous

October 30th, 2011, 4:56 am #6

handling... I've found that it holds airplane windscreens fairly well, for example, but it can be broken loose with a mishandling.... another inconvenience with it is that it takes a little bit to start gripping, meaning you have to hold the part. I usually use the method described above (Ambroid or Weld-on #3 with capillary action), but if you're afraid of liquid model glue, then I'd go with either the white glue or the testor selection...
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David Womby
David Womby

October 31st, 2011, 1:04 pm #7

I am not a car modeller but just committed myself to building two old Airfix 1/32 gems - the Mini and the Zodiac MkIII.

I remember messing up cars in the 70s when I last built one when I attached the windows. I want them to be glued in good and securely after painting the body shells.

Do I just use Humbrol Clearfix or Kristal Klear? Or is there a better solution, please.

David
Thanks all (nm)
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Bob Grimes
Bob Grimes

November 2nd, 2011, 1:04 am #8

I am not a car modeller but just committed myself to building two old Airfix 1/32 gems - the Mini and the Zodiac MkIII.

I remember messing up cars in the 70s when I last built one when I attached the windows. I want them to be glued in good and securely after painting the body shells.

Do I just use Humbrol Clearfix or Kristal Klear? Or is there a better solution, please.

David
A water based white acrylic glue, that, although it looks like regular white glue and dries clear, is a completely different formula. Has a much stronger bond than white glue, but also doesn't fog or otherwise harm clear parts and cleans up with water while still wet
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Joined: August 12th, 2004, 3:14 pm

November 2nd, 2011, 2:56 pm #9

nt
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Joined: November 12th, 2009, 7:52 pm

November 2nd, 2011, 7:58 pm #10

Front windshield, rear window and two side windows - 4 separate pieces to glue into the car body from below.

David
Hello David

I just use Klear/Future as my glue if I can. I dip the clear parts in a jar, drain off any major puddles with a paper towel and place the parts in place. Sometimes I run a little Klear around the joins before and/or after placing the parts depending on the shapes. When the Klear is dry, then the parts are crystal clear and firmly in place.

If I'm struggling with any clear parts, I usually loose off a few choice words and resort to Humbrol Clearfix, although you have to be careful when applying, otherwise overspill will be noticeable afterwards

Hope this helps,
Nick
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