Home made castings - some practice going on here.

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Home made castings - some practice going on here.

Joined: August 20th, 2010, 11:34 am

April 23rd, 2012, 6:49 am #1

I have been trying to 'fix' up some of the weaknesses in Airfix kit mouldings , one of the major areas of concern to me has been the quality of the engines/cowlings of kits like the Beaufighter, Hamden, Sunderland and my current project, the Halifax, so I have been trying to mould my own bits.
A few years ago I bought a kit from the Adelaide Casting Supplies (ACS) company at ModelExpo and using this I have reproduced some nice engines from other kits FOR MY OWN USE ONLY. I decided to use the Hasegawa Bristol Hercules for my Halifaxes and future Beaufighters and the Airfix/MPM Wellington Bristol Pegagsus for my future Wimpy and Sunderland builds ( as well as Bristol 138, Stranraer, Shark/ Wallace, Walrus, Rippon and Seal). I started by mounting the parts in a suitable, slightly flexible clear plastic tub, along with a set of Shackleton exhausts for a future project, and then spraying them with a releasing agent.

A rubber mould in pretty pink ACS material was then cast

and then filled with resin from the ACS kit.

I think the copies look really good and I am learning how to eliminate bubbles with judicious tapping and probing with a toothpick. The extra bits are the magnetos.

The Halifax cowlings were drilled and sanded out and the Hercules sanded to fit - I think they look a million percent over the originals


The Pegasus also looks good as shown with the original


Note that I cannot sell these as they are commercial products, but I have made a couple of dozen for my own models - Give it a go people - its fun and very satisfying.

I am also producing some of my own parts which do not contravene product laws and have begun to make castings of the two different Dyak engine/cowlings for the QANTAS Avro 504 that are covered by the Hawkeye decal sheet for those particular aircraft.
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Joined: February 9th, 2008, 6:04 am

April 23rd, 2012, 8:52 am #2

and its not that hard!
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[/IMG]
[/IMG]
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and opens all sorts of opportunities for conversions
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I was compelled to try because I didnt want to scratch 4 engines for the Heron, a spare engine copied for the Junkers is being used in an Otter build..its like having your own spare parts factory

I echo the original post..give it a go!
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Joined: April 19th, 2005, 12:34 am

April 23rd, 2012, 10:11 am #3

I have been trying to 'fix' up some of the weaknesses in Airfix kit mouldings , one of the major areas of concern to me has been the quality of the engines/cowlings of kits like the Beaufighter, Hamden, Sunderland and my current project, the Halifax, so I have been trying to mould my own bits.
A few years ago I bought a kit from the Adelaide Casting Supplies (ACS) company at ModelExpo and using this I have reproduced some nice engines from other kits FOR MY OWN USE ONLY. I decided to use the Hasegawa Bristol Hercules for my Halifaxes and future Beaufighters and the Airfix/MPM Wellington Bristol Pegagsus for my future Wimpy and Sunderland builds ( as well as Bristol 138, Stranraer, Shark/ Wallace, Walrus, Rippon and Seal). I started by mounting the parts in a suitable, slightly flexible clear plastic tub, along with a set of Shackleton exhausts for a future project, and then spraying them with a releasing agent.

A rubber mould in pretty pink ACS material was then cast

and then filled with resin from the ACS kit.

I think the copies look really good and I am learning how to eliminate bubbles with judicious tapping and probing with a toothpick. The extra bits are the magnetos.

The Halifax cowlings were drilled and sanded out and the Hercules sanded to fit - I think they look a million percent over the originals


The Pegasus also looks good as shown with the original


Note that I cannot sell these as they are commercial products, but I have made a couple of dozen for my own models - Give it a go people - its fun and very satisfying.

I am also producing some of my own parts which do not contravene product laws and have begun to make castings of the two different Dyak engine/cowlings for the QANTAS Avro 504 that are covered by the Hawkeye decal sheet for those particular aircraft.
Well done ...... they look bloody good!
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Joined: October 9th, 2009, 6:59 am

April 23rd, 2012, 11:00 am #4

and its not that hard!
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]

and opens all sorts of opportunities for conversions
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]

I was compelled to try because I didnt want to scratch 4 engines for the Heron, a spare engine copied for the Junkers is being used in an Otter build..its like having your own spare parts factory

I echo the original post..give it a go!
Hi Wally

I have some rather hard to get propellers
that I would like to copy for some of my models,
and was wondering if it was possible to do so.

Seeing yours, tells me it is possible, I was just
wondering if you might share you know
how to do this please?


Thanks in advance

Alan
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Joined: June 13th, 2009, 11:31 pm

April 23rd, 2012, 11:48 am #5

I have been trying to 'fix' up some of the weaknesses in Airfix kit mouldings , one of the major areas of concern to me has been the quality of the engines/cowlings of kits like the Beaufighter, Hamden, Sunderland and my current project, the Halifax, so I have been trying to mould my own bits.
A few years ago I bought a kit from the Adelaide Casting Supplies (ACS) company at ModelExpo and using this I have reproduced some nice engines from other kits FOR MY OWN USE ONLY. I decided to use the Hasegawa Bristol Hercules for my Halifaxes and future Beaufighters and the Airfix/MPM Wellington Bristol Pegagsus for my future Wimpy and Sunderland builds ( as well as Bristol 138, Stranraer, Shark/ Wallace, Walrus, Rippon and Seal). I started by mounting the parts in a suitable, slightly flexible clear plastic tub, along with a set of Shackleton exhausts for a future project, and then spraying them with a releasing agent.

A rubber mould in pretty pink ACS material was then cast

and then filled with resin from the ACS kit.

I think the copies look really good and I am learning how to eliminate bubbles with judicious tapping and probing with a toothpick. The extra bits are the magnetos.

The Halifax cowlings were drilled and sanded out and the Hercules sanded to fit - I think they look a million percent over the originals


The Pegasus also looks good as shown with the original


Note that I cannot sell these as they are commercial products, but I have made a couple of dozen for my own models - Give it a go people - its fun and very satisfying.

I am also producing some of my own parts which do not contravene product laws and have begun to make castings of the two different Dyak engine/cowlings for the QANTAS Avro 504 that are covered by the Hawkeye decal sheet for those particular aircraft.
They have come out very nicely
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Joined: August 20th, 2010, 11:34 am

April 23rd, 2012, 12:02 pm #6

and its not that hard!
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]

and opens all sorts of opportunities for conversions
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]

I was compelled to try because I didnt want to scratch 4 engines for the Heron, a spare engine copied for the Junkers is being used in an Otter build..its like having your own spare parts factory

I echo the original post..give it a go!
propeller is a stunning job - I have not tried to do them yet. I am tinkering with the idea of replicating the Special Hobby Firefly wheel wells for my Airfix Firefly builds.
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Joined: February 9th, 2008, 6:04 am

April 23rd, 2012, 12:32 pm #7

I have been trying to 'fix' up some of the weaknesses in Airfix kit mouldings , one of the major areas of concern to me has been the quality of the engines/cowlings of kits like the Beaufighter, Hamden, Sunderland and my current project, the Halifax, so I have been trying to mould my own bits.
A few years ago I bought a kit from the Adelaide Casting Supplies (ACS) company at ModelExpo and using this I have reproduced some nice engines from other kits FOR MY OWN USE ONLY. I decided to use the Hasegawa Bristol Hercules for my Halifaxes and future Beaufighters and the Airfix/MPM Wellington Bristol Pegagsus for my future Wimpy and Sunderland builds ( as well as Bristol 138, Stranraer, Shark/ Wallace, Walrus, Rippon and Seal). I started by mounting the parts in a suitable, slightly flexible clear plastic tub, along with a set of Shackleton exhausts for a future project, and then spraying them with a releasing agent.

A rubber mould in pretty pink ACS material was then cast

and then filled with resin from the ACS kit.

I think the copies look really good and I am learning how to eliminate bubbles with judicious tapping and probing with a toothpick. The extra bits are the magnetos.

The Halifax cowlings were drilled and sanded out and the Hercules sanded to fit - I think they look a million percent over the originals


The Pegasus also looks good as shown with the original


Note that I cannot sell these as they are commercial products, but I have made a couple of dozen for my own models - Give it a go people - its fun and very satisfying.

I am also producing some of my own parts which do not contravene product laws and have begun to make castings of the two different Dyak engine/cowlings for the QANTAS Avro 504 that are covered by the Hawkeye decal sheet for those particular aircraft.
passed down to me from our dear "Uncle Les" from down under

1. get a 3/4 inch deep container of a suitable diameter ( I used a lid off a plastic jar / container)

2. Get your master propeller that you are going to copy

3. glue thin diameter plastic rod to the very tips of the propeller blades and to the centre hub these "pins" are the "legs" that the propeller will stand on the inside of the lid.

4. glue the legs of the propeller to the inside bottom of your container (to stop it moving around)
(the "legs" serve two purposes, 1, to stand the prop clear of the bottom and thereby immerse the whole thing in the silicon mold material AND 2, the pins will mark where the tips and centre of the propeller are when the silicon is set..more later)

5. pour your silicon mold material around the mounted propeller to the top of the lid

6. when the silicon has set pull it from the container

7. flip the silicon upside down and you will see the ends of the 4 "legs"

8 using sharp scalpel cut down to the prop master from each tip to the centre hub
you now have three slices cut into the silicon

9 open the silicon mold up like a flower and pull the master prop out

10. mix your resin, open the silicon mold up like a flower, pour the resin in, squish it up a bit to ensure the resin fills all the cavity

11. wait about an hour after the resin sets (so it really hardens) then pull out your copy like you did the master ( if you pull it too early you may twist and distort the still softish / pliable resin)

12. clean up the prop, snipping off the resin legs etc fix any flaws and presto one prop copy ready for use

[/IMG]
in the picture my prop mold is bottom left, you can see my resin copy prop sitting on its "legs"
Last edited by cac_sabre on April 23rd, 2012, 12:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: July 8th, 2008, 10:57 am

April 23rd, 2012, 1:10 pm #8

Are there different kinds of these products to choose from?

Thanks!

Stuart
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Joined: February 9th, 2008, 6:04 am

April 23rd, 2012, 1:55 pm #9

took me months to build up the courage (more like get off my fat butt) to try it out..I bought it for the Heron conversion that I was planning at the time.
The stuff worked well so I continue to buy the same products, the resin has about a 90 working time..not much! you have to be quick and in my garage in the hot summer with 40 degrees C inside it goes off real quick!

The resin I use is Barnes Easycast very fast cure polyurethane
The silicon mold stuff is Barnes ultrasil fast set condensation cure RTV-2

I do not use any mold release agent, the silicon is flexible enough to easily pop masters and copies out

I was so pleased with getting the Heron done I went straight into the Bonanza to Baron Conversion.

Then The Junkers really stretched the learning curve making the cowls
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Joined: December 24th, 2005, 1:07 pm

April 23rd, 2012, 7:18 pm #10

I have been trying to 'fix' up some of the weaknesses in Airfix kit mouldings , one of the major areas of concern to me has been the quality of the engines/cowlings of kits like the Beaufighter, Hamden, Sunderland and my current project, the Halifax, so I have been trying to mould my own bits.
A few years ago I bought a kit from the Adelaide Casting Supplies (ACS) company at ModelExpo and using this I have reproduced some nice engines from other kits FOR MY OWN USE ONLY. I decided to use the Hasegawa Bristol Hercules for my Halifaxes and future Beaufighters and the Airfix/MPM Wellington Bristol Pegagsus for my future Wimpy and Sunderland builds ( as well as Bristol 138, Stranraer, Shark/ Wallace, Walrus, Rippon and Seal). I started by mounting the parts in a suitable, slightly flexible clear plastic tub, along with a set of Shackleton exhausts for a future project, and then spraying them with a releasing agent.

A rubber mould in pretty pink ACS material was then cast

and then filled with resin from the ACS kit.

I think the copies look really good and I am learning how to eliminate bubbles with judicious tapping and probing with a toothpick. The extra bits are the magnetos.

The Halifax cowlings were drilled and sanded out and the Hercules sanded to fit - I think they look a million percent over the originals


The Pegasus also looks good as shown with the original


Note that I cannot sell these as they are commercial products, but I have made a couple of dozen for my own models - Give it a go people - its fun and very satisfying.

I am also producing some of my own parts which do not contravene product laws and have begun to make castings of the two different Dyak engine/cowlings for the QANTAS Avro 504 that are covered by the Hawkeye decal sheet for those particular aircraft.
Thanks for showing Graham - and it's indeed marvelous to see your own castings - I will definitely give it a try, after I have tried alclad paints - and a punch 'n die set - and smash moulding - so many techniques and stuff to do...

You have a Rippon - I assume it's the Broplan vac since you're planning to replace the engine

* <i></i> * *
William De Coster / Belgium / Plastic Stories

1/72 - Special Hobby - TT-1 Pinto : Part I (incl Panthers Cup 2012 show report)
1/72 - Airfix/Jo-Han - Mitsubishi Zero/Rufe conversion: Part I

Just like the perfect woman doesn't exist, I will never build a perfect model.
Puts me on a par with God
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