Hasegawa 1/32 tween the wars aircraft question

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Hasegawa 1/32 tween the wars aircraft question

Joined: February 27th, 2006, 6:25 pm

January 9th, 2013, 1:25 am #1

All four, P-26,P-12,F4B4 and BF2C-1 have the Townend? ring type cowlings. I was just looking at the instructions and the cowling/engine parts for my BF2C-1. How the heck is the cowling to be attached!??? It is so much larger in diameter than the engine cylinder diameter that the engine just rattles about in the cowling.
The instructions show no mouting points at all. I know how the real one on the F4B4/P-12 fit, I assume the Curtiss product would fit in a similar manor. If it does then either the motor is too small or the cowling is too large. Soooo after my long winded intro.... How did you attach your cowlings?

Mike
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Joined: October 8th, 2005, 11:22 am

January 9th, 2013, 2:05 am #2

In both cases, I've had to lightly file the tops of the rocker covers on the tops of the cylinders to get the ends of the cowl ring to meet at all. The engines are a very snug fit. I've tried looking at photos, but can't see how the cowl ring was secured, some sort of struts between the cylinders?
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Joined: February 27th, 2006, 6:25 pm

January 9th, 2013, 2:17 am #3

I know how the cowling on the Boeing fits. Each rockerarm cover has a mounting pad that I assume was bolted to the cowling from the outside. Someone here sent me a photo of one at a museum and it shows this.

HMMM I just remembered I have a disc of pics of the Thai Airforce Museum BF2C,Maybe it shows what I am after.

Mike
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Joined: February 27th, 2006, 6:25 pm

January 9th, 2013, 2:30 am #4

So any of you that sent the BFC2 pics from Pensacola have some cowling shots of their BF2C?

M
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Joined: November 21st, 2010, 3:29 am

January 9th, 2013, 4:41 am #5

All four, P-26,P-12,F4B4 and BF2C-1 have the Townend? ring type cowlings. I was just looking at the instructions and the cowling/engine parts for my BF2C-1. How the heck is the cowling to be attached!??? It is so much larger in diameter than the engine cylinder diameter that the engine just rattles about in the cowling.
The instructions show no mouting points at all. I know how the real one on the F4B4/P-12 fit, I assume the Curtiss product would fit in a similar manor. If it does then either the motor is too small or the cowling is too large. Soooo after my long winded intro.... How did you attach your cowlings?

Mike
Which would be the Stearman an T-6, they both had the mounting pads bolted to the cylinder heads. The cowlings had square receptacles riveted to the cowling. The upper half of the cowl was placed on top of the engine in the mounting pads, and the lower half of the cowling fastened to the top with strap fasteners with dzeus fasteners. The strap fasteners were adjustable to get the proper tension on the pads to hold the cowling firmly in place. Sorry I dont have any pics.
Elvin
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Joined: November 21st, 2010, 3:29 am

January 9th, 2013, 4:47 am #6

The Stearman had a P&W R-985 with a Beech 18 cowling. The T-6 of course had The P&W R-1340.
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Joined: December 29th, 2002, 11:19 am

January 9th, 2013, 11:32 am #7

All four, P-26,P-12,F4B4 and BF2C-1 have the Townend? ring type cowlings. I was just looking at the instructions and the cowling/engine parts for my BF2C-1. How the heck is the cowling to be attached!??? It is so much larger in diameter than the engine cylinder diameter that the engine just rattles about in the cowling.
The instructions show no mouting points at all. I know how the real one on the F4B4/P-12 fit, I assume the Curtiss product would fit in a similar manor. If it does then either the motor is too small or the cowling is too large. Soooo after my long winded intro.... How did you attach your cowlings?

Mike
built a long time ago by a friend. I looked at it from every angle, it seemed to butt against the intake on the top. Then I grabbed the cowl ring and, to my slight surprise, it rotated freely! I could slide it a tiny bit forward/aft, but it wasn't "rattly loose". As far as I could tell from the instructions, it doesn't "attach" at all, just traps the engine inside. Perhaps the exhausts take up a bit of slop, if you haven't attached the exhausts to your engine?

I did notice that the cowling seems to "block" the intakes, especially the upper one. I haven't compared to photos of the real thing, but that doesn't seem quite right.

bob
"Ignorance is bliss, but I find learning more interesting." - Me, as far as I know
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Joined: February 24th, 2002, 10:36 pm

January 9th, 2013, 12:39 pm #8

The Stearman had a P&W R-985 with a Beech 18 cowling. The T-6 of course had The P&W R-1340.
had Lycoming 680, Continental 670 or a Jacobs 755 radial.

The cowls on these models along with the strap hinges also had 4 bolts in the cowl, 2 each in the upper and lower cowls.



Diplomacy is the art of saying "Nice doggie" until you can find a rock.
Will Rogers

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Joined: August 12th, 2004, 3:14 pm

January 9th, 2013, 2:22 pm #9

All four, P-26,P-12,F4B4 and BF2C-1 have the Townend? ring type cowlings. I was just looking at the instructions and the cowling/engine parts for my BF2C-1. How the heck is the cowling to be attached!??? It is so much larger in diameter than the engine cylinder diameter that the engine just rattles about in the cowling.
The instructions show no mouting points at all. I know how the real one on the F4B4/P-12 fit, I assume the Curtiss product would fit in a similar manor. If it does then either the motor is too small or the cowling is too large. Soooo after my long winded intro.... How did you attach your cowlings?

Mike


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Joined: February 27th, 2006, 6:25 pm

January 9th, 2013, 3:40 pm #10

I have a similar pic also of the F4B showing the cylinder top pads. May have to go with my best guess on the Curtiss.

Mike
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