First Time Car Builder Paint Question

Joined: August 29th, 2006, 4:32 am

June 26th, 2018, 7:56 pm #1

Hello Everyone.

I've modeled for years, but I'm currently working on my first car model of a Pontiac Fiero and I'm unsure of painting it.

I would like to use the actual colors which I can find from aftermarket automotive touch up paint companies.  This is my first time and I want to get this right, my questions are:

Am I best using the same brand primer on the plastic model as the brand of the automotive touch up paint?

Am I better getting the paint in the bottle and thinning it for the airbrush, or get a spray can and decant it?

How do I thin these paints for airbrushing?

Thanks so much for your help to me!

Alan
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Joined: November 17th, 2006, 1:18 pm

June 27th, 2018, 12:26 am #2

I've done same building models of friend's cars as gifts for yrs. Most were re-paints of metal (or resin) 18th or 43rd models but I've done a few using 24th styrene kits. Best advise I can give is spend the extra ten mins to test first! Every/anything that's iffy.

Most all primers, from the hobby shop or the local auto supply, should work, tho I'll bet some primers are so strong that they could harm raw kit styrene. Other way poss too. Auto color coat could melt a hobby primer paint.Test first.

Thinner from the hardware store, hobby shop, auto paint jobber will prob all do for a model paint job, but if you can swing it, buy the paint manuf's recommended thinner or a hi Q auto paint thinner. Maybe a local auto painter will sell you a mayo jar's worth of DuPont auto paint thinner for five bucks. I have a gal can, bought many yrs ago, $$, but a gal lasts me yrs.

I've thinned paint from both touch-up bottle/applicator and decanted from a sm spray can. I've always ended up thinning the decanted spray can stuff too. I like to shoot very thin thru my Iwatas and Badgers. The touch up stuff is thicker. Unless the price diff is big, I'd go w/ the smallest spray can the parts dept sells and decant.

Back in the 60s I even shot some cool fingernail polish colors, thinned w/ hardware store laq thinner, thru my 20 buck Paasche for custom and hot rod builds. None peeled off from or melted my Revell or AMTs.

The newer flat base color paints w/ a clear topcoat paintjobs, can't help ya.
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Joined: December 26th, 2007, 10:27 pm

June 27th, 2018, 1:12 am #3

Here are some links to model car paint manufacturer/distributors. They offer paints matched to many factory stock colors and are pre-thinned for airbrushing. I've used them all with both Alclad and Tamiya primers successfully.

https://www.gravitycolors.com/

http://www.mcwautomotivefinishes.com/

http://www.scalefinishes.com/welcome.html



 
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Joined: August 29th, 2006, 4:32 am

June 27th, 2018, 8:19 pm #4

bookmark460 wrote: I've done same building models of friend's cars as gifts for yrs. Most were re-paints of metal (or resin) 18th or 43rd models but I've done a few using 24th styrene kits. Best advise I can give is spend the extra ten mins to test first! Every/anything that's iffy.

Most all primers, from the hobby shop or the local auto supply, should work, tho I'll bet some primers are so strong that they could harm raw kit styrene. Other way poss too. Auto color coat could melt a hobby primer paint.Test first.

Thinner from the hardware store, hobby shop, auto paint jobber will prob all do for a model paint job, but if you can swing it, buy the paint manuf's recommended thinner or a hi Q auto paint thinner. Maybe a local auto painter will sell you a mayo jar's worth of DuPont auto paint thinner for five bucks. I have a gal can, bought many yrs ago, $$, but a gal lasts me yrs.

I've thinned paint from both touch-up bottle/applicator and decanted from a sm spray can. I've always ended up thinning the decanted spray can stuff too. I like to shoot very thin thru my Iwatas and Badgers. The touch up stuff is thicker. Unless the price diff is big, I'd go w/ the smallest spray can the parts dept sells and decant.

Back in the 60s I even shot some cool fingernail polish colors, thinned w/ hardware store laq thinner, thru my 20 buck Paasche for custom and hot rod builds. None peeled off from or melted my Revell or AMTs.

The newer flat base color paints w/ a clear topcoat paintjobs, can't help ya.
This was very helpful!  Thank you.
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Joined: August 29th, 2006, 4:32 am

June 27th, 2018, 8:24 pm #5

rlhart13 wrote: Here are some links to model car paint manufacturer/distributors. They offer paints matched to many factory stock colors and are pre-thinned for airbrushing. I've used them all with both Alclad and Tamiya primers successfully.

https://www.gravitycolors.com/

http://www.mcwautomotivefinishes.com/

http://www.scalefinishes.com/welcome.html



 
Thank you for your response and sending this to me!  I'm painting a 1985 and 1986 Pontiac Fiero and unfortunately don't see the match for WA9004 Silver Metallic and WA7719 Medium Gray Metallic, but again, thank you.
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Joined: July 1st, 2005, 8:30 pm

July 8th, 2018, 6:36 pm #6

Lots of options. PRIMERS: Testors MM Lacquer primer in the jar is wonderful, as are the Tamiya rattlecan primers. I just bought some of the Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer, but haven't tried it- same as their aerosol "Fine White Primer", but in a jar. I've also used the Alcald primers- they are nice, but need a little Mr. Color Leveling Thinner, IMO. COLOR: Testors MM lacquers are very nice, and give great results when decanted and airbrushed. They have a good range of OEM domestic (USA) colors. The dedicated auto lacquers are not glossy, and need a top coat. The Tamiya TS series aerosols are also very good- I have gotten great results both out-of-the-can and decanting and airbrushing. They are thin and glossy, but will benefit from a clearcoat. I just finished shooting my first kit with a Gravity Colors finish- this paint is amazing. I shot their "Pagani Huyara Aymara Silver" on to Revell's AMG GT- color is a warm titanium-ish silver and looks perfect on this car! I used Alcald grey primer, and shot 3 coats of color- it is SO thin, but covers very well. I will probably wet sand the spots I'm not happy with and do one more coat. I have a few Zero Paint shades as well, but have not tried them yet. CLEARS:Tamiya TS-13 is the best straight-out-of-the-can clear I've used. I'm not sure I'd even go to the trouble of decanting it. The Testors MM clears are OK, but if you can get the Tamiya, don't bother. I have some of the Gravity 2-part clear, but haven't tried it yet- other builders speak very highly of it. Gravity Colors are available direct from the vendor, and Zero Paints from Hobby World USA- both have good service and ship times.
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