Ever had a seam that just won't disappear? I'm redoing a 20 yr old Hellcat model

.

Ever had a seam that just won't disappear? I'm redoing a 20 yr old Hellcat model

Joined: August 23rd, 2004, 4:48 pm

July 6th, 2012, 2:11 am #1

from a tricolor to overall dark sea blue....the seam on
top right in front of the windscreen runs about a 1/4"
then fades into the center of the foward fuselage. I've put some Mr. Surfacer 500 in it twice and smoothed, but when I shoot the paint the sanded edges haven't feathered
and shows through gloss paint. Think I'll try one more time, masking the two scribed panels off, brush on some Mr.S, smooth it then spray on some MrS before the gloss.
I've been short cutting after sanding and just appling the gloss blue over the sanded area....wasn't noticeable
when it was flat sea blue. Trying to stay away from having to do much extra because the finish on the rest of the model is beautiful...sure enough to screw something else up trying fix one little spot.....

Keep your Sprues Empty
Last edited by larrygoodell on July 6th, 2012, 2:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: November 17th, 2006, 1:18 pm

July 6th, 2012, 2:21 am #2

'dried/set' yrs ago! Me, I'd excavate the whole seam, down to bedrock, and use what I've learned in the 20 yrs since to re-fill the seam.

But since you're 99% happy w/ the build, I think you should just leave well enuff alone and try to flush the thoughts of that 'Grand Canyon' you know is there for ALL to see outta your mind.
Last edited by bookmark460 on July 6th, 2012, 2:23 am, edited 1 time in total.
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: August 23rd, 2004, 4:48 pm

July 6th, 2012, 2:58 am #3

any paint at all much less attached fiddly parts ie
masts pitot tubes, gear doors etc. Using gloves to protect the paint is a snag hazard also. I'm thinking the seam may have popped right there but i don't want to push on it as it might get longer. I'll sand it back to plastic after a good nights sleep and mix some shaved sprue with liquid cement to lay in it...that
concoction hasn't failed me yet......

Keep your Sprues Empty
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: February 15th, 2012, 1:51 am

July 6th, 2012, 5:33 am #4

from a tricolor to overall dark sea blue....the seam on
top right in front of the windscreen runs about a 1/4"
then fades into the center of the foward fuselage. I've put some Mr. Surfacer 500 in it twice and smoothed, but when I shoot the paint the sanded edges haven't feathered
and shows through gloss paint. Think I'll try one more time, masking the two scribed panels off, brush on some Mr.S, smooth it then spray on some MrS before the gloss.
I've been short cutting after sanding and just appling the gloss blue over the sanded area....wasn't noticeable
when it was flat sea blue. Trying to stay away from having to do much extra because the finish on the rest of the model is beautiful...sure enough to screw something else up trying fix one little spot.....

Keep your Sprues Empty
Do not want to start a food fight here.

But - If it is a model you built that far back, leave it as is.

Build a new one scratch - see if you can do it better.

Is not this hobby all about product improvement ?
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: March 14th, 2006, 7:18 pm

July 6th, 2012, 10:55 am #5

from a tricolor to overall dark sea blue....the seam on
top right in front of the windscreen runs about a 1/4"
then fades into the center of the foward fuselage. I've put some Mr. Surfacer 500 in it twice and smoothed, but when I shoot the paint the sanded edges haven't feathered
and shows through gloss paint. Think I'll try one more time, masking the two scribed panels off, brush on some Mr.S, smooth it then spray on some MrS before the gloss.
I've been short cutting after sanding and just appling the gloss blue over the sanded area....wasn't noticeable
when it was flat sea blue. Trying to stay away from having to do much extra because the finish on the rest of the model is beautiful...sure enough to screw something else up trying fix one little spot.....

Keep your Sprues Empty
It works great and doesn't settle like many fillers that react to the solvent in the paint (although if you're using acrylics, I'm clueless.) Plus it's FAST - you can be ready for paint in 30 minutes.

Tape around the area, lay on some Bondo, dry/wet sand down to the tape, remove tape and feather in with final wet sand, retape at nearest panel lines and repaint.

Use the fine grain bondo.
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: September 10th, 2001, 7:56 pm

July 6th, 2012, 12:49 pm #6

Do not want to start a food fight here.

But - If it is a model you built that far back, leave it as is.

Build a new one scratch - see if you can do it better.

Is not this hobby all about product improvement ?
My stash is a pretty managable size. It's my plan to finish building them all and then revisiting and rebuilding my old builds.

Because that's my hobby.

Ken

Quote
Like
Share

Joined: September 25th, 2007, 1:40 pm

July 6th, 2012, 3:15 pm #7

from a tricolor to overall dark sea blue....the seam on
top right in front of the windscreen runs about a 1/4"
then fades into the center of the foward fuselage. I've put some Mr. Surfacer 500 in it twice and smoothed, but when I shoot the paint the sanded edges haven't feathered
and shows through gloss paint. Think I'll try one more time, masking the two scribed panels off, brush on some Mr.S, smooth it then spray on some MrS before the gloss.
I've been short cutting after sanding and just appling the gloss blue over the sanded area....wasn't noticeable
when it was flat sea blue. Trying to stay away from having to do much extra because the finish on the rest of the model is beautiful...sure enough to screw something else up trying fix one little spot.....

Keep your Sprues Empty
n/t
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: February 27th, 2005, 1:34 pm

July 6th, 2012, 8:18 pm #8

from a tricolor to overall dark sea blue....the seam on
top right in front of the windscreen runs about a 1/4"
then fades into the center of the foward fuselage. I've put some Mr. Surfacer 500 in it twice and smoothed, but when I shoot the paint the sanded edges haven't feathered
and shows through gloss paint. Think I'll try one more time, masking the two scribed panels off, brush on some Mr.S, smooth it then spray on some MrS before the gloss.
I've been short cutting after sanding and just appling the gloss blue over the sanded area....wasn't noticeable
when it was flat sea blue. Trying to stay away from having to do much extra because the finish on the rest of the model is beautiful...sure enough to screw something else up trying fix one little spot.....

Keep your Sprues Empty
Once about 25 years ago I was building a Ertl Star Trek Movie version Enterprise. No matter what I did, the saucer seam would not disappear. Fill, sand, prime... repeat.
Finally I just gave it one or three heavy and I mean heavy coats of auto primer. Sanded and then finally it was filled but only after I gave it a hard candy shell so to speak.




Cheers,

Max Bryant

"You'll Love My Wingnuts!"
Quote
Like
Share