Wtf? Old subject but?

Jethro01
HSATF Member
Jethro01
HSATF Member
Joined: April 14th, 2018, 7:04 pm

April 15th, 2018, 5:08 pm #1

So I am new here so apologies for being redundant.
I have always ridden crotch rockets but kind of inherited a 99 Ace. This thing is awesome but a pita at the same time.
Love it. Most comfortable bike I have ever been on.
It sat for 6+ yrs in a barn. I have rebuilt the carbs, replaced/modified the fuel pump, clean the rust from the gas tank, washed and polished till my fingers were raw, and replaced several lines. Adjusted everything to make her go.
Was doing great. Went for a ride and and it was awesome. Parked in the garage and figured I would ride to work the next day. Dead!
Just finished replacing the R/R with es120. Hope that does it. The connection to the stator side was fried. Please tell me that I won’t be replacing it next.
Anyway now got some smoke at idle?? All stock but teapot cut off end of pipes. Clears up when when going.
Thoughts? Suggestions?
Thanks to the warm welcome and this site is awesome!! I would have never attempted to even add air to the tires before reading all the posts here.
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Cleve
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Cleve
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Joined: June 18th, 2009, 2:57 am

April 15th, 2018, 7:55 pm #2

Did you do the resistance and voltage tests on the stator itself? results?
Cleve

Motorcycles: Bigger is NOT better, only bigger.
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Jethro01
HSATF Member
Jethro01
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Joined: April 14th, 2018, 7:04 pm

April 15th, 2018, 8:09 pm #3

Cleve wrote: Did you do the resistance and voltage tests on the stator itself? results?
I did not. Have no meter. I am no mechanic. I can build anything with wood but me and mechanics are like oil and water.
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Cleve
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Cleve
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Joined: June 18th, 2009, 2:57 am

April 15th, 2018, 8:40 pm #4

Even a cheap digital meter from Sears etc. will work fine.  lowest ohms scale, each yellow wire to the others, red lead on one black lead on another, should see an ohm or 2 of resistance. on each combo: wire a to wire b, b to c and a to c. If there's a variation between the readings, the stator may have 1 or more coils shorted internally causing lower resistance or if one pair had higher, it could be the wire is burned or broken on one lead.  Then red lead on each yellow wire and black lead on engine block/ground. should be open/Over Limit. If you get an ohms reading between the stator leads and ground, the stator insulation has failed and shorted to the engine case.  If those 2 sets of readings pass, start it up, with yellow leads still disconnected from rectifier and meter leads again on each combo of yellow wires, set meter to a-c voltage and should see approx 50-60 volts ac each yellow wire combo when revved up to cruising rpm. The stator is nothing more than 3 lengths of insulated copper wire all 3 tied together at one end, wound into coils in the stator frame and ending at the 3 yellow wires at the rectifier. The spinning permanent magnets in the flywheel induce the ac voltage into the wires, then the rectfier rectifies it into 14v dc voltage. Any real difference in AC readings could also indicate some of the coil windings have shorted internally. (or grounded to the engine case...)  Testing it is not as bad as all this sounds...  Those help videos at RoadsterCycle.com show exactly how it's done:  scroll down   http://roadstercycle.com/Roadstercycle.com%20Videos.htm

As for the smoke, maybe it's just condensation blowing out.  See how it is after a few hundred miles. A lot of these use some oil. And checking it is a pain,  read the directions.  Overfilling could cause the crank to hit the oil and foam it up, then possibly get sucked through the crankcase breather. The stator depends on oil for cooling, so underfilled is also bad.

Even with the quirks I still like mine. And it's like a whole new better bike with my Madstad windshield and deflector additions, NO more head-shaking turbulence.
Cleve

Motorcycles: Bigger is NOT better, only bigger.
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Jethro01
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Jethro01
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Joined: April 14th, 2018, 7:04 pm

April 15th, 2018, 8:56 pm #5

Cleve wrote: Even a cheap digital meter from Sears etc. will work fine.  lowest ohms scale, each yellow wire to the others, red lead on one black lead on another, should see an ohm or 2 of resistance. on each combo: wire a to wire b, b to c and a to c. If there's a variation between the readings, the stator may have 1 or more coils shorted internally causing lower resistance or if one pair had higher, it could be the wire is burned or broken on one lead.  Then red lead on each yellow wire and black lead on engine block/ground. should be open/Over Limit. If you get an ohms reading between the stator leads and ground, the stator insulation has failed and shorted to the engine case.  If those 2 sets of readings pass, start it up, with yellow leads still disconnected from rectifier and meter leads again on each combo of yellow wires, set meter to a-c voltage and should see approx 50-60 volts ac each yellow wire combo when revved up to cruising rpm. The stator is nothing more than 3 lengths of insulated copper wire all 3 tied together at one end, wound into coils in the stator frame and ending at the 3 yellow wires at the rectifier. The spinning permanent magnets in the flywheel induce the ac voltage into the wires, then the rectfier rectifies it into 14v dc voltage. Any real difference in AC readings could also indicate some of the coil windings have shorted internally. (or grounded to the engine case...)  Testing it is not as bad as all this sounds...  Those help videos at RoadsterCycle.com show exactly how it's done:  scroll down   http://roadstercycle.com/Roadstercycle.com%20Videos.htm

As for the smoke, maybe it's just condensation blowing out.  See how it is after a few hundred miles. A lot of these use some oil. And checking it is a pain,  read the directions.  Overfilling could cause the crank to hit the oil and foam it up, then possibly get sucked through the crankcase breather. The stator depends on oil for cooling, so underfilled is also bad.

Even with the quirks I still like mine. And it's like a whole new better bike with my Madstad windshield and deflector additions, NO more head-shaking turbulence.
Thank you. I will give it a try. No matter if it dies every 100 miles I still love this thing! How I came to own it is unbelievable. It is in immaculate condition except the few mysteries from sitting for so long. Gonna try to ride tomorrow weather permitting. Here’s to hoping the R/R replacement at least solved the charging issue.
Again I can’t say thank you enough to all the advice from this forum.
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bamaTrider
HSATF 1st Officer
bamaTrider
HSATF 1st Officer
Joined: April 29th, 2005, 3:52 am

April 17th, 2018, 9:59 pm #6

Jethro01 wrote:
Cleve wrote: Even a cheap digital meter from Sears etc. will work fine.  lowest ohms scale, each yellow wire to the others, red lead on one black lead on another, should see an ohm or 2 of resistance. on each combo: wire a to wire b, b to c and a to c. If there's a variation between the readings, the stator may have 1 or more coils shorted internally causing lower resistance or if one pair had higher, it could be the wire is burned or broken on one lead.  Then red lead on each yellow wire and black lead on engine block/ground. should be open/Over Limit. If you get an ohms reading between the stator leads and ground, the stator insulation has failed and shorted to the engine case.  If those 2 sets of readings pass, start it up, with yellow leads still disconnected from rectifier and meter leads again on each combo of yellow wires, set meter to a-c voltage and should see approx 50-60 volts ac each yellow wire combo when revved up to cruising rpm. The stator is nothing more than 3 lengths of insulated copper wire all 3 tied together at one end, wound into coils in the stator frame and ending at the 3 yellow wires at the rectifier. The spinning permanent magnets in the flywheel induce the ac voltage into the wires, then the rectfier rectifies it into 14v dc voltage. Any real difference in AC readings could also indicate some of the coil windings have shorted internally. (or grounded to the engine case...)  Testing it is not as bad as all this sounds...  Those help videos at RoadsterCycle.com show exactly how it's done:  scroll down   http://roadstercycle.com/Roadstercycle.com%20Videos.htm

As for the smoke, maybe it's just condensation blowing out.  See how it is after a few hundred miles. A lot of these use some oil. And checking it is a pain,  read the directions.  Overfilling could cause the crank to hit the oil and foam it up, then possibly get sucked through the crankcase breather. The stator depends on oil for cooling, so underfilled is also bad.

Even with the quirks I still like mine. And it's like a whole new better bike with my Madstad windshield and deflector additions, NO more head-shaking turbulence.
Thank you. I will give it a try. No matter if it dies every 100 miles I still love this thing! How I came to own it is unbelievable. It is in immaculate condition except the few mysteries from sitting for so long. Gonna try to ride tomorrow weather permitting. Here’s to hoping the R/R replacement at least solved the charging issue.
Again I can’t say thank you enough to all the advice from this forum.
Welcome to the T world, Jethro. We all agree with you on it being a great bike to ride. Ive owned a lot of different bikes , and types of bikes in my 50 years of 2 and 3 wheeling. The Ace Tourer was one of my favorites out of all of them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Current love; 2004 GL1800 CSC Cobra trike (silver/white).
Past love; 1999 Ace Tourer (Silver over Black)

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Jethro01
HSATF Member
Jethro01
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Joined: April 14th, 2018, 7:04 pm

April 18th, 2018, 6:53 pm #7

Well finally 80 and sunny. Went for a short ride and all seems well. Seems to be charging again. Still no meter so can’t check voltage. Still have a touch of smoke coming from exhaust but it is behind me and I can’t smell it. Running like a beat dog. Idle is great and take off is awesome. Thanks for all of the advice!
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Hoppy
HSATF Tail Gunner
Hoppy
HSATF Tail Gunner
Joined: July 15th, 2009, 12:18 am

May 3rd, 2018, 1:44 pm #8

Welcome to the T world! Just don't try for 6th gear too often!
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