Motorcycle lift adapter

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Motorcycle lift adapter

bishopchip
HSATF Tail Gunner
bishopchip
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Joined: December 30th, 2017, 10:39 pm

February 21st, 2018, 1:33 pm #1

Hey Folks! I bought a Harbor Freight lift and want to fabricate some kind of adapter to fit the rails. There a few "old" posts on a few sites, but I guess they are so old, the photos don't show up any more. Do any of you have suggestions, plans/dimensions that will work to lift and stabilize the T in the air?

Thanks!
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Cleve
HSATF 1st Officer
Cleve
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Joined: June 18th, 2009, 2:57 am

February 21st, 2018, 6:54 pm #2

K&L makes one I believe,

However, I use a Weaver® W-BlackJack Motorcycle Jack and cut the nylon adapters down to different heights to match the uneven T frame rails. You could do something similar with some of the machinable nylon/plastic round-stock from some place like Enco. then fasten them to your lift, possibly with some aluminum channel stock. drill and tap the nylon, bolt it to the aluminum (or steel ) channel stuff and set them on your lift rails.

https://www.derekweaver.com/bikers-gara ... ycle-jack/

well, guess Enco is gone,,,  something like this stuff:

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/63383426
Cleve

Motorcycles: Bigger is NOT better, only bigger.
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bishopchip
HSATF Tail Gunner
bishopchip
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Joined: December 30th, 2017, 10:39 pm

February 21st, 2018, 7:25 pm #3

Cleve wrote: K&L makes one I believe,

However, I use a Weaver® W-BlackJack Motorcycle Jack and cut the nylon adapters down to different heights to match the uneven T frame rails. You could do something similar with some of the machinable nylon/plastic round-stock from some place like Enco. then fasten them to your lift, possibly with some aluminum channel stock. drill and tap the nylon, bolt it to the aluminum (or steel ) channel stuff and set them on your lift rails.

https://www.derekweaver.com/bikers-gara ... ycle-jack/

well, guess Enco is gone,,,  something like this stuff:

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/63383426
Thanks Cleve - that does give me some ideas. I have seen some angle brackets and with your ideas I think something can develop. Thanks for you input!
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rwelniak
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rwelniak
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Joined: May 18th, 2005, 6:15 am

March 2nd, 2018, 9:55 am #4

Take a look at Harbor Freight #63138/60762
Possible modifications with just some cutting and drilling vs. machining.
Just throwing out another idea-haven't looked at actual dimensions.
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bishopchip
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bishopchip
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Joined: December 30th, 2017, 10:39 pm

March 2nd, 2018, 12:24 pm #5

That's a good idea! Thank you. I had a friend come over the other night who can weld. We came up with some thoughts. I will share this with him and see what we can come up with.
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bishopchip
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bishopchip
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Joined: December 30th, 2017, 10:39 pm

March 6th, 2018, 12:10 pm #6

So I have read a couple post of folks using Hockey pucks as spacers.....yes Hockey pucks! I think it's a great idea but is 1" enough to clear the bottom of the engine or will I need 2" - wondering if I can still get the jack under it adding 2 additional inches...
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Cleve
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Cleve
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Joined: June 18th, 2009, 2:57 am

March 6th, 2018, 3:15 pm #7

bishopchip wrote: So I have read a couple post of folks using Hockey pucks as spacers.....yes Hockey pucks! I think it's a great idea but is 1" enough to clear the bottom of the engine or will I need 2" - wondering if I can still get the jack under it adding 2 additional inches...
Used Hockey pucks on my Nomad. I doubt the hockey pucks will work for the T, the frame rails are tucked up between the engine case and floorboard/rear master cyl. mounts on rt., radiator hose/oil filter on left with the left rail being approx 1/2" higher than the right. Engine case needs about 1-1/2" clearance on the left and 1" on the right.  You can use a 1-3/8" hole saw on the plastic round stock mentioned earlier to get the frame rail cutouts, (May need to drill from both sides if it's a shallow hole saw, drill a 1/4" pilot hole 1st. drill press works best) 
   Frame rails are approx 11-1/2" apart,  If you drilled down through the plastic round stock, countersink the boltheads, AND your jack has enough length on the lifting rails, you could mount the adapters directly to the jack by drilling and tapping holes in the jack surface maybe? 1/4" bolt should be enough.  I did flatten one side of the left adapter on the belt sander to clear the radiator hose better

 I'm thinking of doing that for my roll around bike jack...

here's the one I was thinking of:

https://www.klsupply.com/shop-lifts/mc5 ... v-jack.asp  they list a shadow adapter but only for c/c2 2000 up, not sure what the difference is.
Cleve

Motorcycles: Bigger is NOT better, only bigger.
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bishopchip
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bishopchip
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Joined: December 30th, 2017, 10:39 pm

March 6th, 2018, 3:56 pm #8

Cleve wrote:
bishopchip wrote: So I have read a couple post of folks using Hockey pucks as spacers.....yes Hockey pucks! I think it's a great idea but is 1" enough to clear the bottom of the engine or will I need 2" - wondering if I can still get the jack under it adding 2 additional inches...
Used Hockey pucks on my Nomad. I doubt the hockey pucks will work for the T, the frame rails are tucked up between the engine case and floorboard/rear master cyl. mounts on rt., radiator hose/oil filter on left with the left rail being approx 1/2" higher than the right. Engine case needs about 1-1/2" clearance on the left and 1" on the right.  You can use a 1-3/8" hole saw on the plastic round stock mentioned earlier to get the frame rail cutouts, (May need to drill from both sides if it's a shallow hole saw, drill a 1/4" pilot hole 1st. drill press works best) 
   Frame rails are approx 11-1/2" apart,  If you drilled down through the plastic round stock, countersink the boltheads, AND your jack has enough length on the lifting rails, you could mount the adapters directly to the jack by drilling and tapping holes in the jack surface maybe? 1/4" bolt should be enough.  I did flatten one side of the left adapter on the belt sander to clear the radiator hose better

 I'm thinking of doing that for my roll around bike jack...

here's the one I was thinking of:

https://www.klsupply.com/shop-lifts/mc5 ... v-jack.asp  they list a shadow adapter but only for c/c2 2000 up, not sure what the difference is.
Man that lift and the dolly really look great. I appreciate your input - I'm really not trying to "cheap-out", I wish I had the space for one of the full size lifts, ny aging knees and back are growling getting down on the ground and back up again! I like the idea of the delrin and using maybe a 3x3 angle that I can put on the rails. I've managed to get 'er up and down a few times as is, but it was a major pucker factor when it would go from upright to the lean for the kickstand! I have and will always put tiedowns, but it still is a "thrill ride" ! haha
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Cleve
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Cleve
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Joined: June 18th, 2009, 2:57 am

March 6th, 2018, 4:49 pm #9

bishopchip wrote:
Cleve wrote:
bishopchip wrote: So I have read a couple post of folks using Hockey pucks as spacers.....yes Hockey pucks! I think it's a great idea but is 1" enough to clear the bottom of the engine or will I need 2" - wondering if I can still get the jack under it adding 2 additional inches...
Used Hockey pucks on my Nomad. I doubt the hockey pucks will work for the T, the frame rails are tucked up between the engine case and floorboard/rear master cyl. mounts on rt., radiator hose/oil filter on left with the left rail being approx 1/2" higher than the right. Engine case needs about 1-1/2" clearance on the left and 1" on the right.  You can use a 1-3/8" hole saw on the plastic round stock mentioned earlier to get the frame rail cutouts, (May need to drill from both sides if it's a shallow hole saw, drill a 1/4" pilot hole 1st. drill press works best) 
   Frame rails are approx 11-1/2" apart,  If you drilled down through the plastic round stock, countersink the boltheads, AND your jack has enough length on the lifting rails, you could mount the adapters directly to the jack by drilling and tapping holes in the jack surface maybe? 1/4" bolt should be enough.  I did flatten one side of the left adapter on the belt sander to clear the radiator hose better

 I'm thinking of doing that for my roll around bike jack...

here's the one I was thinking of:

https://www.klsupply.com/shop-lifts/mc5 ... v-jack.asp  they list a shadow adapter but only for c/c2 2000 up, not sure what the difference is.
Man that lift and the dolly really look great. I appreciate your input - I'm really not trying to "cheap-out", I wish I had the space for one of the full size lifts, ny aging knees and back are growling getting down on the ground and back up again! I like the idea of the delrin and using maybe a 3x3 angle that I can put on the rails. I've managed to get 'er up and down a few times as is, but it was a major pucker factor when it would go from upright to the lean for the kickstand! I have and will always put tiedowns, but it still is a "thrill ride" ! haha
Nothing wrong with saving money,,,    though, more and more it seems like if I want it done right, I have to do it myself. I'm tired of spending money for inferior work / parts / tools. However,  That setup from Derek Weaver works great and doesn't take up a lot of room. It will raise the bike high enough for fork maint or changing tires at either end no problem.  But I still had to modify the adapters.  Already got all the tools, Maybe I should buy 3 ft of that plastic and turn out some of the modified adapters,,, hmmm.     
Cleve

Motorcycles: Bigger is NOT better, only bigger.
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bishopchip
HSATF Tail Gunner
bishopchip
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Joined: December 30th, 2017, 10:39 pm

March 6th, 2018, 5:30 pm #10

Hmmm....i'll bite! Let me know! I think there are a lot of folks with the HF/Craftsman/etc lifts that could use them. Not sure if you are part of the Shadow Riders America Facebook group - but there is an audience of around 3k riders!
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