Reverse trike with supercharged 1500cc engine

Pfunky
Registered User
Joined: 01 Apr 2011, 19:50

04 Dec 2017, 20:15 #141

OMFG!  Man, you are AMAZING!  Putting in pieces of furring strips as guides and bevels the ones to make them fit and then it comes out like that.  I just love this build.  It should be in a magazine.  I mean it dang well better be someday.  I just want to come, sit with my beer and watch a master at work.  I love all the building shows.  Fast and Loud, Norm Abrams, it doesn't matter.  If you have enough conflict in your life, I think you could be a star 23TBucket.  
The Ghetto Jay Leno
of the Uncles of Agony
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maginoo pero bastos
MOD
Joined: 05 Jan 2010, 23:30

04 Dec 2017, 22:59 #142

clifford is my star!
"Too bad all the people who know how to run the country are busy driving cabs and cutting hair."

--George Burns
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23tbucket
Registered User
Joined: 29 Sep 2007, 21:32

07 Dec 2017, 03:25 #143

Thanks for the nice compliments Baz, Pfunky (lost for words with your kindness) and Maginoo. I think you guys just having a good laugh, knowing all the dusty, itchy, messy stuff old Cliffy is having to do right now?...lol

Well, Things seem to be working out well with the addition of my louvers. Sure glad I did the recess thing. I started on the front right hand louver firstly. Masked off around the recess to keep resin drips and runs off of the main body. Cut the fiberglass mat to fit and got the clamps ready.

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Soaked the mat and bottom of louver panel with resin and clamped 'er down. One can never have too many clamps!
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I had cut scallops in the wood strips to let the excess resin squeese out.
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Let things set up overnight and removed the clamps and wood strips.
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Ground off the remaining ecess resin and roughly sanded edges evenly:
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Gouged out all around the edges:
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Layed in some short strand fiberglass body filler into the gouge:
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Sanded down the short strand and started blending things in with plain body filler.
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As you can see, I am almost down to the original body with the feathering out. A couple of coats of slick sand and some more blocking should bring things in place.
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23tbucket
Registered User
Joined: 29 Sep 2007, 21:32

07 Dec 2017, 03:37 #144

Managed to squeeze off the rear right louver as well. I wrapped the louver panel with masking tape this time..made for mucho easier clean-up.
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Well, two down...four more to go>>>
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Got started on the two tops ones this afternoon. Managed to place the one. Will let it harden overnight.
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23tbucket
Registered User
Joined: 29 Sep 2007, 21:32

10 Dec 2017, 03:26 #145

Oh, yes...going to look good >>>>> Sprayed on a couple of quick coats of slick sand on the one side. A bit more sanding is needed, but after using 180 grit..there won't be many high/low areas...maybe might need another coating of slick sand and/or guide coat? I am happy so far>>>>>>>
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CHUCK DV
Admin
Joined: 09 Apr 2003, 21:46

10 Dec 2017, 04:24 #146

Nice.....
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rakeNtrail
MOD
Joined: 05 Oct 2007, 18:52

10 Dec 2017, 04:53 #147

I still say the louvers should have been on the inside.

"Ribbed On The Inside For HIS Pleasure"!!!!!!! LOL!
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pat76cj
Registered User
Joined: 05 May 2011, 23:28

11 Dec 2017, 20:34 #148

Beautiful work!    Okay, novice body guy here.  Slick Sand, never heard of it until now.   From what I gather on the net, some folks equate it to spray body filler.   What would be the best use for this stuff.  It's pretty pricey, but based on the results I've seen here, well worth the cost.
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23tbucket
Registered User
Joined: 29 Sep 2007, 21:32

12 Dec 2017, 00:13 #149

Thanks for the complements Chuck, Rake and Pat.
Pat, I have never done any kind of body work before, but did a whole lot of research (googling). Yes, that slick sand is quite pricey..anywhere from $111.00 to $165.00 each gallon from the local body shop supply stores in the nearest city to me, but man is it ever nice stuff to work with. It is actually body filler that can be sprayed. I use a HVLP gun with a 2.3 tip. The slick sand won't come out of a gun with a tip much smaller than 1.8. You only have about 20 to 30 minutes, after mixing the catalyst, to spray and clean the gun before the slick sand hardens. Wait to long and the gun is no longer usable. It sands wonderfully and turns light grey where sanded, so the need for guide coat is not needed initially. It is tough stuff after hardening...even acetone doesn't touch it. You can buy it in quarts as well.
  Some posts say you can apply paint right on top of the sanded slick sand with out going to primer after.

I have one light coat of slick sand on the whole body...started the blocking (sanding) process.....just hours and hours to go! I am pretty sure I will have to give the body one more coat of slick sand before final blocking before primer, base, clear/with sparkles, clear, clear, clear>>>>
     Side note; I have been hashing the idea of covering the whole body with Armorthane, rather than base/ clear. Armorthane can be colored now. Armorthane is most often used in truck box liners...similar to Line-X.
     Those little pieces of white paper are there to allow me to get the curvature for a small smoked plexiglass windshield.
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Silverkrown
Registered User
Joined: 06 Aug 2009, 00:27

12 Dec 2017, 18:43 #150

Wow that looks like a crazy amount of work. Unreal. Looks great. I'm doing some body work now myself. I'll have to look into that slick sand. Never heard of that before.
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