Help, bad noises

Help, bad noises

Joined: June 12th, 2011, 8:58 pm

March 22nd, 2012, 3:06 am #1

I have an '84 Bronco II with originally a C5. I put a FSB V8 engine in it and adapted the stock C5.I changed the bellhousing and torque converter. I also changed the valve body to one from a C4. Putting a V8 in was a big job and I did a lot of things a long the way to make it look stock. Bottom line is along with my work and other cars, I spent a long time doing this, on and off.When I finally got ready to start the rebuilt engine, I had only put one nut on the TC, and it wasn't tight. I forgot about this and started the engine. I immediately heard a rapping sound. The engine ran maybe 5 seconds. I started it agin to hear the noise again, maybe 10 -15 seconds. It finally dawned on my what I had done, forgotten the other nuts. I then put the other three nuts on and tightened them up. I started the engine again and the noise was much less, but still there. I put the trans in gear and nothing. I went through all the gears, nothing. When I went to put it back in park, it would not go easily, clicking, then finally dropping into park. So . . sound familiar?? Running it those few seconds with the TC loose messed up the pump?? or?? How about the parking paw clicking and not wanting to go back in? Seems all these things are related . . what have I done?? Thanks

Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance
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gregaust
gregaust

March 22nd, 2012, 7:44 am #2

The loose nuts would not have hurt anything. Just check the converter is actaully tight. A normal nut may bottom on the studs and not hold it tight..
As for the other verify the linkage is adjusted correct .
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Joined: November 18th, 2004, 4:20 am

March 22nd, 2012, 1:39 pm #3

I have an '84 Bronco II with originally a C5. I put a FSB V8 engine in it and adapted the stock C5.I changed the bellhousing and torque converter. I also changed the valve body to one from a C4. Putting a V8 in was a big job and I did a lot of things a long the way to make it look stock. Bottom line is along with my work and other cars, I spent a long time doing this, on and off.When I finally got ready to start the rebuilt engine, I had only put one nut on the TC, and it wasn't tight. I forgot about this and started the engine. I immediately heard a rapping sound. The engine ran maybe 5 seconds. I started it agin to hear the noise again, maybe 10 -15 seconds. It finally dawned on my what I had done, forgotten the other nuts. I then put the other three nuts on and tightened them up. I started the engine again and the noise was much less, but still there. I put the trans in gear and nothing. I went through all the gears, nothing. When I went to put it back in park, it would not go easily, clicking, then finally dropping into park. So . . sound familiar?? Running it those few seconds with the TC loose messed up the pump?? or?? How about the parking paw clicking and not wanting to go back in? Seems all these things are related . . what have I done?? Thanks

Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance
Remove a cooler line at the rad and fire it up.

If fluid gushes out the pump is good.


No gush means the pump is bad.
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Joined: June 12th, 2011, 8:58 pm

March 22nd, 2012, 2:16 pm #4

Could I have damaged the pump by leaving the TC loose? Because this was a perfect 58K trans before. The knock is loud.

Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance
Last edited by PetesPonies on March 22nd, 2012, 2:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: June 12th, 2011, 8:58 pm

March 22nd, 2012, 5:49 pm #5

TC be causing the knocking?? I am pretty sure the spline count is correct, but . . . . .
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Joined: July 17th, 2011, 7:07 pm

March 22nd, 2012, 8:04 pm #6


Cracked flexplate will/can cause knocking noise. Can be very loud sometimes.

You won't be able to see the crack with trans installed.

Flexplate must be removed from crankshaft also.

They usually crack around/near the center pilot hole, or from a bolt hole to a "window" if it's not a solid flex plate. 

Crack can be very hard to see sometimes. A very tiny hairline crack can be almost impossible to spot.

Hold flexplate up and tap with a hammer, it should "ring" nicely. If it makes a "clank" sound it's cracked.

Another way to spot a crack is to pour some solvent on the flex plate, just enough to "wet" it.

Then drop it horizontal on a flat surface (concrete floor) from a few inches up. Watch closely and if cracked the solvent will "spray" from the crack. May have to repeat a few times to see it.
Last edited by galaxiex on March 22nd, 2012, 8:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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kevink1955
kevink1955

March 22nd, 2012, 10:52 pm #7

The clicking when puting it in park tells me that either the transfer case is in neutral or the trans output shaft is no longer connected to the transfer case input shaft (dont think that possiable if they are bolted together)

The trans output shaft is spining up with nothing connected, thats why it grinds going into park
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kevink1955
kevink1955

March 22nd, 2012, 10:59 pm #8

Of course I am asssuming it's 4 wheel drive, all the ones I have seen around here are
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Joined: June 12th, 2011, 8:58 pm

March 22nd, 2012, 11:08 pm #9

Cracked flexplate will/can cause knocking noise. Can be very loud sometimes.

You won't be able to see the crack with trans installed.

Flexplate must be removed from crankshaft also.

They usually crack around/near the center pilot hole, or from a bolt hole to a "window" if it's not a solid flex plate. 

Crack can be very hard to see sometimes. A very tiny hairline crack can be almost impossible to spot.

Hold flexplate up and tap with a hammer, it should "ring" nicely. If it makes a "clank" sound it's cracked.

Another way to spot a crack is to pour some solvent on the flex plate, just enough to "wet" it.

Then drop it horizontal on a flat surface (concrete floor) from a few inches up. Watch closely and if cracked the solvent will "spray" from the crack. May have to repeat a few times to see it.
flexplate, brand new converter.

Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance
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Joined: June 12th, 2011, 8:58 pm

March 22nd, 2012, 11:09 pm #10

The clicking when puting it in park tells me that either the transfer case is in neutral or the trans output shaft is no longer connected to the transfer case input shaft (dont think that possiable if they are bolted together)

The trans output shaft is spining up with nothing connected, thats why it grinds going into park
I will check that. With the awful sound, that thought never crossed my worried mind So hopefully I didn't have the transfer case engaged, now what about the sound assuming nothing is cracked as its all new.

Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance
Last edited by PetesPonies on March 22nd, 2012, 11:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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