E4OD od one way clutch

E4OD od one way clutch

Joined: September 5th, 2011, 4:39 pm

September 5th, 2011, 5:10 pm #1

Hello I recently rebuild my e4OD out of a 97 7.5L F250. When I took it for a ride and it shifted very well untill it tried to downshift out of overdrve. The truck seemed to be held back untill it downshifted into 3rd then it started to make a whining noise from the front of the transmssion so I drove it 2 miles home and pulled out the tranny. What I found was the od sprag come apart and the rollers locked up the inner and outer races also it burnt the od and coast clutch packs. Could I of installed the od sprag upside down or could of it just been faulty? Also is the od sprag the only cause to the burnt out clutch packs or is there any other factors that could of caused this? I am pretty new at this and dont want to miss anything. Please any info would help!
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Joined: July 17th, 2011, 7:07 pm

September 5th, 2011, 10:35 pm #2


Why was the trans rebuilt? Major problems or just freshening it up?

The OD sprag is kind-of a weak point on the E4OD.

Yes it can be installed "backwards" or "up-side down".

....but if the OD sprag is installed backwards the trans won't move fwd in the "OD" position. You would have to push the OD cancel button, or pull the lever down to 2 or 1 to get FWD motion.

Hopefully, if such was the case, you would have noticed the trans not moving FWD in OD...... and also noticed that you had to cancel OD or pull the lever down to get FWD motion.

The only time it would move forward in OD with the OD sprag installed backwards... is if someone did a modification to the valvebody to apply the coast clutch in all FWD ranges. (the coast clutch would/should still release when the trans shifted to OD at highway speed, in fact it HAS to release at that time).

It is very likely the piled-up sprag is the cause of the burnt OD and coast packs.

Now you need to determine why the sprag piled-up.

Did you flush the cooler?...they are known to get plugged..... 

Lack of lube/cooler flow has killed many an E4OD trans... The cooler return feeds the rear lube circuit...so it is VITAL that the cooler flow freely.

Usually the cooler flow problem gets noticed because if it's really plugged... the L/U convertor comes on and stalls the engine as soon as you put the trans in gear.

The bad part is, a partially plugged cooler won't always put the L/U on.... but it will restrict flow enough to kill the trans.

You MUST check cooler flow. I can't emphasize this enough. 1 quart in 60 seconds must flow from the cooler return line with the engine at idle.

Disconnect the rear line at the trans and attach a hose to the line. Put the open hose end in a graduated container and get a stopwatch and someone to help. Have them fire the engine and let it idle. You watch the flow and time how long it takes to get 1 quart in the container.

We have changed MANY coolers on E4OD trucks because they would not flush/flow properly.

By changed I mean... install BRAND NEW cooler assemblies.

If your trans was really "killed" and that's why you rebuilt it... it's likely the cooler is plugged.

Read this >>>>http://www.sonnax.com/system/pdfs/105/o ... 1289926275

and this >>>http://www.sonnax.com/system/announcement/36425-01K.pdf

The OD sprag and OD planet get lube from the FRONT lube circuit. It is known for the stock plastic front lube/drain back vavle to melt and cause lube flow problems.
Last edited by galaxiex on September 5th, 2011, 10:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: September 5th, 2011, 4:39 pm

September 6th, 2011, 2:32 am #3

I rebuilt the transmission because of hard part failure both forward and od planets were bad also the od clutch was fried. I used an alto kit and a transgo tugger shift kit. I did flush the cooler but never checked the amount of flow. I do not know what to do my wife wants me to bring it to a shop and I already spent enough on it.
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Joined: July 17th, 2011, 7:07 pm

September 6th, 2011, 3:47 am #4


Sorry to hear about your troubles.

The E4OD is not the easiest trans to successfully rebuild. Even the pro's have trouble sometimes.

Did you replace the convertor? With hard part damage it's very important to replace, or have the T/C rebuilt.

The Tugger kit is a good one, but I don't remember if he does anything with the front lube/drainback valve in the stator....
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Jeremy
Jeremy

September 6th, 2011, 9:35 am #5

Yes I did replace the torque converter and I do believe it updates the front lube / drainback valve but I will have to double check. This problem is most likely the result in lack of lube? Other than the cooler and the valve is there any other factors that could of caused this? I'm going to tear back down the rest of the tranny to check out the rest of it. Let me also say that for as little I drove it the od clutch was fried and the coast clutch just a little.
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Joined: September 5th, 2011, 4:39 pm

September 12th, 2011, 3:42 am #6

Yes I did replace the torque converter and I do believe it updates the front lube / drainback valve but I will have to double check. This problem is most likely the result in lack of lube? Other than the cooler and the valve is there any other factors that could of caused this? I'm going to tear back down the rest of the tranny to check out the rest of it. Let me also say that for as little I drove it the od clutch was fried and the coast clutch just a little.
 
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Joined: July 17th, 2011, 7:07 pm

September 17th, 2011, 11:14 pm #7


Which style of OD sprag do you have? Is it the "slipper" type or the spring and roller type?

Did you install a new sprag element? (either slipper or spring and roller)

I have found the slipper type ALWAYS needs replacing on high mileage trannys.

Look closely/carefully at the "tips" of the slipper elements and if you can see approx 1/16 wear mark, kinda "flattened" looking tip that contacts the inner and outer race, the sprag is junk.

If you install a worn slipper type... it will "pile up" in a very short time. The slipper elements will "flip over" in operation and make a big mess.
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Jeremy
Jeremy

September 22nd, 2011, 2:36 am #8

It is the roller and spring type. I did check the front lube drainback valve and it is fine but I did buy the sonnax upgrade. The rest of the clutch packs all look fine. I order the od and the coast clutch packs and going to reassemble but want to make sure that there is nothing elese that could cause cause this like something in the pump, valve body or anything else. Thanks for your help.
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Joined: July 17th, 2011, 7:07 pm

September 22nd, 2011, 4:27 am #9


The center support bolts are critical. Bolt torque and case warpage.

I think the Tugger kit gives instructions about that.

Good luck!
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Jeremy
Jeremy

October 29th, 2011, 9:02 pm #10

Does anyone know the best way to check for case warpage? Just about to put it back together for the second time and want to rule this out. Thanks
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