Joined: February 20th, 2018, 1:36 am

May 6th, 2018, 9:59 pm #21

Good afternoon,
I have it all apart. It had .104 endfloat because it is missing the washer between back of the front carrier and input shell.

The forward clutch has been slipping some (not fried, but overheated). There was some type of melted resin or clear plastic between the plates and piston.

I probably should replace the O/R clutch inner race also, it has some wear on one side.

All the washers I have are .060-.063" thick.

The pump looks good and tested good before I took the tranny out of the car.

I am going to inspect the valve body next and check new clutch stacks to select snap ring.


Thank you for your help.
Scooter
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Joined: November 18th, 2004, 4:20 am

May 7th, 2018, 12:56 am #22

There is a plastic ring on top of the return spring held in with a metal snap ring.
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Joined: March 23rd, 2004, 11:14 am

May 7th, 2018, 5:18 am #23

Thank you for the reply,
From what you are saying, it sounds like the downshift valve will stay in the appropriate position without linkage. I will ask if I can just remove it.

I did not see any oil in the bellhousing, so I can probably just leave it with current plug.

The endfloat was .104. This allowed the washers tabs to come out of the front planet carrier gouging up the aluminum carrier so I need to get a replacement.

Most of the washers need replaced so I will do them all. I do not know if there is a standard thickness for new ones to get an endfloat measurement and order the selective at the same time. I may have to assemble it with the one I have and then order correct one.

The O/R clutch rollers fell out and some of the springs are broke so I need a new one. I see the newer ones are plastic and to leave out snap rings. It appears to fit this late 1973 model. or I can find a metal one.

I will disassemble clutches this morning.

Thank you,
Scooter
You can leave the kickdown lever that runs in the centre on the selector shaft out. No need to touch anything else. There is a spring loaded plunger in the valvebody adjacent to the manual valve . As long as it is free and springy it will remain in the right place.

The plastic one-way clutches work fine or you can still get the metal originals also.

.104" is a lot. Must me at least one washer chewed up.
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Joined: March 23rd, 2004, 11:14 am

May 7th, 2018, 5:20 am #24

Good afternoon,
I have it all apart. It had .104 endfloat because it is missing the washer between back of the front carrier and input shell.

The forward clutch has been slipping some (not fried, but overheated). There was some type of melted resin or clear plastic between the plates and piston.

I probably should replace the O/R clutch inner race also, it has some wear on one side.

All the washers I have are .060-.063" thick.

The pump looks good and tested good before I took the tranny out of the car.

I am going to inspect the valve body next and check new clutch stacks to select snap ring.


Thank you for your help.
Scooter
If I read this right???? Between the rear side of the front planet and the input shell there is no thrust washer
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Joined: February 20th, 2018, 1:36 am

May 7th, 2018, 11:28 am #25

There is a plastic ring on top of the return spring held in with a metal snap ring.
Thank you for the reply,
That may be what is missing. I do not see that in any parts diagrams I can find or the Ford manual pdf I have.
Does it go under the large snap ring that is same diameter as the one that holds the clutch pack?
Can you refer me to an website or image that may show it?
Please let me know.
Thank you,
Scooter
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Joined: February 20th, 2018, 1:36 am

May 7th, 2018, 11:33 am #26

If I read this right???? Between the rear side of the front planet and the input shell there is no thrust washer
Thank you for the reply,

Correct, The input planet is missing its outer Torrington bearing race and the forward clutch is missing its outer Torrington bearing race.
I originally thought that there needed to also be a plain thrust washer between the rear side of the front planet and the input shell, but it does not look like it in the diagrams. That missing Torrington outer race is probably supposed to take that trust.

Thank you,
Scooter
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Joined: February 20th, 2018, 1:36 am

May 7th, 2018, 11:39 am #27

You can leave the kickdown lever that runs in the centre on the selector shaft out. No need to touch anything else. There is a spring loaded plunger in the valvebody adjacent to the manual valve . As long as it is free and springy it will remain in the right place.

The plastic one-way clutches work fine or you can still get the metal originals also.

.104" is a lot. Must me at least one washer chewed up.
Thank you for the reply,
I will just remove the lever stuff then.

I ordered a metal one so the rollers will be similar to any current wear pattern. The inner race measured to be round and look good. I was not able to find a new replacement that was the same type.

I have not found any metal chunks or much fine debris. I have a feeling the last person to work on it lost them.

Thank you,
Scooter
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Joined: November 18th, 2004, 4:20 am

May 7th, 2018, 4:34 pm #28

Thank you for the reply,
That may be what is missing. I do not see that in any parts diagrams I can find or the Ford manual pdf I have.
Does it go under the large snap ring that is same diameter as the one that holds the clutch pack?
Can you refer me to an website or image that may show it?
Please let me know.
Thank you,
Scooter
Perhaps a thrust washer has melted.
With that amount of end play.
Getting my transmissions mixed up.

TorqueFlites had the spacer.
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Joined: February 20th, 2018, 1:36 am

May 7th, 2018, 6:02 pm #29

Thank you for the reply,
Well, maybe it used to have a plastic one that had tangs and went on the front ring gear hub? Perhaps the last person to work on it did not clean it up, that would match the rest of the quality of work.

I saw a picture on the net of a forward clutch assembly apart and the washer in the photo was plastic with looked like 3 tangs.

Thanks,
Scooter

I forgot to mention I think the forward piston was not working proper because it had a round inner oring instead of a square one like the others. May have not fit right and was harder.
Last edited by Carfixer on May 7th, 2018, 6:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: March 23rd, 2004, 11:14 am

May 8th, 2018, 9:16 am #30

Thank you for the reply,

Correct, The input planet is missing its outer Torrington bearing race and the forward clutch is missing its outer Torrington bearing race.
I originally thought that there needed to also be a plain thrust washer between the rear side of the front planet and the input shell, but it does not look like it in the diagrams. That missing Torrington outer race is probably supposed to take that trust.

Thank you,
Scooter
Also need to be aware there are two different depth forward drums in that pocket where the bearing sits . Early is .330" , later is .405".
You must have the correct fwd ring gear hub to match the drum.

I just mention since the endfloat is way out. It is prob due to the missing washer/bearing but something to be aware of

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