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You can leave the kickdown lever that runs in the centre on the selector shaft out. No need to touch anything else. There is a spring loaded plunger in the valvebody adjacent to the manual valve . As long as it is free and springy it will remain in the right place.Thank you for the reply,
From what you are saying, it sounds like the downshift valve will stay in the appropriate position without linkage. I will ask if I can just remove it.
I did not see any oil in the bellhousing, so I can probably just leave it with current plug.
The endfloat was .104. This allowed the washers tabs to come out of the front planet carrier gouging up the aluminum carrier so I need to get a replacement.
Most of the washers need replaced so I will do them all. I do not know if there is a standard thickness for new ones to get an endfloat measurement and order the selective at the same time. I may have to assemble it with the one I have and then order correct one.
The O/R clutch rollers fell out and some of the springs are broke so I need a new one. I see the newer ones are plastic and to leave out snap rings. It appears to fit this late 1973 model. or I can find a metal one.
I will disassemble clutches this morning.
If I read this right???? Between the rear side of the front planet and the input shell there is no thrust washerGood afternoon,
I have it all apart. It had .104 endfloat because it is missing the washer between back of the front carrier and input shell.
The forward clutch has been slipping some (not fried, but overheated). There was some type of melted resin or clear plastic between the plates and piston.
I probably should replace the O/R clutch inner race also, it has some wear on one side.
All the washers I have are .060-.063" thick.
The pump looks good and tested good before I took the tranny out of the car.
I am going to inspect the valve body next and check new clutch stacks to select snap ring.
Thank you for your help.
Thank you for the reply,There is a plastic ring on top of the return spring held in with a metal snap ring.
Thank you for the reply,If I read this right???? Between the rear side of the front planet and the input shell there is no thrust washer
Thank you for the reply,You can leave the kickdown lever that runs in the centre on the selector shaft out. No need to touch anything else. There is a spring loaded plunger in the valvebody adjacent to the manual valve . As long as it is free and springy it will remain in the right place.
The plastic one-way clutches work fine or you can still get the metal originals also.
.104" is a lot. Must me at least one washer chewed up.
Perhaps a thrust washer has melted.Thank you for the reply,
That may be what is missing. I do not see that in any parts diagrams I can find or the Ford manual pdf I have.
Does it go under the large snap ring that is same diameter as the one that holds the clutch pack?
Can you refer me to an website or image that may show it?
Please let me know.
Also need to be aware there are two different depth forward drums in that pocket where the bearing sits . Early is .330" , later is .405".Thank you for the reply,
Correct, The input planet is missing its outer Torrington bearing race and the forward clutch is missing its outer Torrington bearing race.
I originally thought that there needed to also be a plain thrust washer between the rear side of the front planet and the input shell, but it does not look like it in the diagrams. That missing Torrington outer race is probably supposed to take that trust.