New Rebuild - No Oil Pressure Help Please!

New Rebuild - No Oil Pressure Help Please!

Mason
Mason

May 3rd, 2015, 10:02 pm #1

Good afternoon everyone. I have been scouring all over the internet in both English and Japanese to find a solution to my problem without much luck. I just finished a rebuild of my FJ20 for my DR30 and finished installing the engine. Upon initial start up, there was 0 oil pressure showing in the gauge cluster and I quickly shut the engine off. Based on my search, here is what I've done to try and diagnose the issue.

The first thing I did was remove the plugs and fuel pump relay and attached a mechanical oil pressure gauge to verify the lack of oil pressure. Turning the car over, there was absolutely 0 pressure, not even enough pressure to fill the gauge's tubing with oil let alone read any pressure. I went through the 30-90 second runs of turning the car over with the plugs out (to lessen the load) to try to build pressure in the system. I was sure to keep the top end oiled manually and watched to see if any oil was coming up top. After about 6 times, I saw no difference in oil pressure and no oil coming to the cams.

The next thing I did was remove the oil filter and filled oil down the center channel in the block to add oil to the pump. The pump upon assembly was filled with pretty thick oil by the machine shop to properly prime it before install and I read that adding a bit more through the oil filter neck could help kick start it. At the same time, I checked to make sure the relief valve had no cracks and wasn't stuck. I tried the same process of turning it over for several tries of 30seconds+ with no pressure built.

Next, I read that a common reason is a dented oil pan or oil pickup strainer. I lifted the car and did notice some sizeable dents in the oil pan and decided to drop the pan to see if that was the culprit. With the pan out, the strainer's mesh was in fact dented in a bit and the dents in the pan looked rather bad. I repaired the mesh on the strainer's original shape and banged out the pan to no longer have the dents. I also checked the pressure regulator valve in the front cover while it was out to make sure it hadn't come out and that it moved properly with the spring. The regulator valve was fine and the oil strainer had no cracks or issues aside from the dented mesh. The gasket was also brand new. I put everything back together and filled it with oil and tried the same process of turning it over with the plugs out but still built absolutely 0 oil pressure. Frustrated, I started the car and ran it for about 10 seconds to see if it'd build pressure that way since it wouldn't do it with just the starter. Still nothing.

The oil pump ran fine before the rebuild and the engine was ok prior to the rebuild, I pulled it just to refresh it. I'm really trying to avoid having to remove the head to get the front cover off to physically check all the oil pump's clearances again so any help or guidance is much appreciated. I'm at a loss for what could possibly causing it to get absolutely no pressure at all. I added some pics below of the oil pan dent and fix and the page from the engine manual showing the different places to check. Please help!













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Anonymous
Anonymous

May 4th, 2015, 11:03 am #2

Sounds to me like the oil pump still hasnt primed, once it starts cavitating it'll never suck any oil from the sump. I had a LS1 that was doing the same thing after a freshen up. We pressurised the engine by putting some compressed air in through the dipstick tube while blocking the breathers, and then starting the engine.This forced oil up through the pump. Even before starting we could see the oil coming up the clear hose to the autometre pressure gauge.

I usually prime the pump with vasoline but I didnt bother with that one and I bit me in the ***
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Anonymous
Anonymous

May 5th, 2015, 6:02 am #3

Good afternoon everyone. I have been scouring all over the internet in both English and Japanese to find a solution to my problem without much luck. I just finished a rebuild of my FJ20 for my DR30 and finished installing the engine. Upon initial start up, there was 0 oil pressure showing in the gauge cluster and I quickly shut the engine off. Based on my search, here is what I've done to try and diagnose the issue.

The first thing I did was remove the plugs and fuel pump relay and attached a mechanical oil pressure gauge to verify the lack of oil pressure. Turning the car over, there was absolutely 0 pressure, not even enough pressure to fill the gauge's tubing with oil let alone read any pressure. I went through the 30-90 second runs of turning the car over with the plugs out (to lessen the load) to try to build pressure in the system. I was sure to keep the top end oiled manually and watched to see if any oil was coming up top. After about 6 times, I saw no difference in oil pressure and no oil coming to the cams.

The next thing I did was remove the oil filter and filled oil down the center channel in the block to add oil to the pump. The pump upon assembly was filled with pretty thick oil by the machine shop to properly prime it before install and I read that adding a bit more through the oil filter neck could help kick start it. At the same time, I checked to make sure the relief valve had no cracks and wasn't stuck. I tried the same process of turning it over for several tries of 30seconds+ with no pressure built.

Next, I read that a common reason is a dented oil pan or oil pickup strainer. I lifted the car and did notice some sizeable dents in the oil pan and decided to drop the pan to see if that was the culprit. With the pan out, the strainer's mesh was in fact dented in a bit and the dents in the pan looked rather bad. I repaired the mesh on the strainer's original shape and banged out the pan to no longer have the dents. I also checked the pressure regulator valve in the front cover while it was out to make sure it hadn't come out and that it moved properly with the spring. The regulator valve was fine and the oil strainer had no cracks or issues aside from the dented mesh. The gasket was also brand new. I put everything back together and filled it with oil and tried the same process of turning it over with the plugs out but still built absolutely 0 oil pressure. Frustrated, I started the car and ran it for about 10 seconds to see if it'd build pressure that way since it wouldn't do it with just the starter. Still nothing.

The oil pump ran fine before the rebuild and the engine was ok prior to the rebuild, I pulled it just to refresh it. I'm really trying to avoid having to remove the head to get the front cover off to physically check all the oil pump's clearances again so any help or guidance is much appreciated. I'm at a loss for what could possibly causing it to get absolutely no pressure at all. I added some pics below of the oil pan dent and fix and the page from the engine manual showing the different places to check. Please help!













pull the cover off and prime the pump with Vaseline , it will breaK down with the oil flow
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Mason
Mason

May 5th, 2015, 1:33 pm #4

Good afternoon everyone. I have been scouring all over the internet in both English and Japanese to find a solution to my problem without much luck. I just finished a rebuild of my FJ20 for my DR30 and finished installing the engine. Upon initial start up, there was 0 oil pressure showing in the gauge cluster and I quickly shut the engine off. Based on my search, here is what I've done to try and diagnose the issue.

The first thing I did was remove the plugs and fuel pump relay and attached a mechanical oil pressure gauge to verify the lack of oil pressure. Turning the car over, there was absolutely 0 pressure, not even enough pressure to fill the gauge's tubing with oil let alone read any pressure. I went through the 30-90 second runs of turning the car over with the plugs out (to lessen the load) to try to build pressure in the system. I was sure to keep the top end oiled manually and watched to see if any oil was coming up top. After about 6 times, I saw no difference in oil pressure and no oil coming to the cams.

The next thing I did was remove the oil filter and filled oil down the center channel in the block to add oil to the pump. The pump upon assembly was filled with pretty thick oil by the machine shop to properly prime it before install and I read that adding a bit more through the oil filter neck could help kick start it. At the same time, I checked to make sure the relief valve had no cracks and wasn't stuck. I tried the same process of turning it over for several tries of 30seconds+ with no pressure built.

Next, I read that a common reason is a dented oil pan or oil pickup strainer. I lifted the car and did notice some sizeable dents in the oil pan and decided to drop the pan to see if that was the culprit. With the pan out, the strainer's mesh was in fact dented in a bit and the dents in the pan looked rather bad. I repaired the mesh on the strainer's original shape and banged out the pan to no longer have the dents. I also checked the pressure regulator valve in the front cover while it was out to make sure it hadn't come out and that it moved properly with the spring. The regulator valve was fine and the oil strainer had no cracks or issues aside from the dented mesh. The gasket was also brand new. I put everything back together and filled it with oil and tried the same process of turning it over with the plugs out but still built absolutely 0 oil pressure. Frustrated, I started the car and ran it for about 10 seconds to see if it'd build pressure that way since it wouldn't do it with just the starter. Still nothing.

The oil pump ran fine before the rebuild and the engine was ok prior to the rebuild, I pulled it just to refresh it. I'm really trying to avoid having to remove the head to get the front cover off to physically check all the oil pump's clearances again so any help or guidance is much appreciated. I'm at a loss for what could possibly causing it to get absolutely no pressure at all. I added some pics below of the oil pan dent and fix and the page from the engine manual showing the different places to check. Please help!













I am finding different opinions about removing the front cover for servicing. Do you need to remove the head to be able to take off and reinstall the front cover or can you leave the head on and slide the cover on and off?
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Joined: January 9th, 2013, 4:43 am

May 5th, 2015, 11:32 pm #5

Good afternoon everyone. I have been scouring all over the internet in both English and Japanese to find a solution to my problem without much luck. I just finished a rebuild of my FJ20 for my DR30 and finished installing the engine. Upon initial start up, there was 0 oil pressure showing in the gauge cluster and I quickly shut the engine off. Based on my search, here is what I've done to try and diagnose the issue.

The first thing I did was remove the plugs and fuel pump relay and attached a mechanical oil pressure gauge to verify the lack of oil pressure. Turning the car over, there was absolutely 0 pressure, not even enough pressure to fill the gauge's tubing with oil let alone read any pressure. I went through the 30-90 second runs of turning the car over with the plugs out (to lessen the load) to try to build pressure in the system. I was sure to keep the top end oiled manually and watched to see if any oil was coming up top. After about 6 times, I saw no difference in oil pressure and no oil coming to the cams.

The next thing I did was remove the oil filter and filled oil down the center channel in the block to add oil to the pump. The pump upon assembly was filled with pretty thick oil by the machine shop to properly prime it before install and I read that adding a bit more through the oil filter neck could help kick start it. At the same time, I checked to make sure the relief valve had no cracks and wasn't stuck. I tried the same process of turning it over for several tries of 30seconds+ with no pressure built.

Next, I read that a common reason is a dented oil pan or oil pickup strainer. I lifted the car and did notice some sizeable dents in the oil pan and decided to drop the pan to see if that was the culprit. With the pan out, the strainer's mesh was in fact dented in a bit and the dents in the pan looked rather bad. I repaired the mesh on the strainer's original shape and banged out the pan to no longer have the dents. I also checked the pressure regulator valve in the front cover while it was out to make sure it hadn't come out and that it moved properly with the spring. The regulator valve was fine and the oil strainer had no cracks or issues aside from the dented mesh. The gasket was also brand new. I put everything back together and filled it with oil and tried the same process of turning it over with the plugs out but still built absolutely 0 oil pressure. Frustrated, I started the car and ran it for about 10 seconds to see if it'd build pressure that way since it wouldn't do it with just the starter. Still nothing.

The oil pump ran fine before the rebuild and the engine was ok prior to the rebuild, I pulled it just to refresh it. I'm really trying to avoid having to remove the head to get the front cover off to physically check all the oil pump's clearances again so any help or guidance is much appreciated. I'm at a loss for what could possibly causing it to get absolutely no pressure at all. I added some pics below of the oil pan dent and fix and the page from the engine manual showing the different places to check. Please help!













Hi, what you are suffering from is a lack of oil prime - instead of pulling everything apart you can recover this situation relatively easily.

Check out this YouTube video - this is easier to watch than me explain.....follow on from around 1min 20 sec....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tOYLlr8 ... e=youtu.be

With concentric oil pumps like the FJ (in the video they demonstrate using a GM LS engine - exactly the same principle) you need to pressurise the whole system before starting. My mate made his own priming system using exactly the same system as this Melling proprietary one, using an old BBQ gas bottle and a barrel valve, etc and used a reinforced rubber hose that is plumbed into the oil pressure switch port to pressurise the engine oil gallery. When I use it, I usually charge up the vessel (with the top barrel valve closed) through a Nitto compressed air fitting screwed into a boss that my mate welded to gas cylinder, to around 40psi, then slowly open the valve and you will get an inrush of oil to the engine. You can tell you are getting full priming when oil starts to flood in the camshaft area and, while priming, you slowly turn the crank shaft manually to allow the oil pump to fill and bleed out air that is in there at the moment. I have personally done this on many of my own L-series engine rebuilds and have watched it done on FJ's - note, you will go through a lot of oil so keep a check on the level in the pressure tank. Of course, you should not be pumping air through the engine or you will have to start over....just drain the sump, put it back in the pressure vessel and start again. My mates setup has an oil pressure gauge plumbed in downstream of the barrel valve so once you have oil flow to the top of the engine, and you have turned the crank slowly 360 degrees, you close off the barrel valve and crank the engine using the starter and you should see the oil pressure build up from the engine as you crank. Then, you can remove the tube from the oil pressure switch (yes it is a pain to get to on the FJ) and then crank the engine (to start).

In future, the oil should be greased with Vaseline to allow it to generate suction as soon as it rotates - please don't crank your engine anymore until you prime the oiling system....

Unfortunately, I don't a picture of my friends set up but if you search around and watch the video above, it should put you on the right track.

All the best with it.
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Anonymous
Anonymous

May 6th, 2015, 12:10 pm #6

Good afternoon everyone. I have been scouring all over the internet in both English and Japanese to find a solution to my problem without much luck. I just finished a rebuild of my FJ20 for my DR30 and finished installing the engine. Upon initial start up, there was 0 oil pressure showing in the gauge cluster and I quickly shut the engine off. Based on my search, here is what I've done to try and diagnose the issue.

The first thing I did was remove the plugs and fuel pump relay and attached a mechanical oil pressure gauge to verify the lack of oil pressure. Turning the car over, there was absolutely 0 pressure, not even enough pressure to fill the gauge's tubing with oil let alone read any pressure. I went through the 30-90 second runs of turning the car over with the plugs out (to lessen the load) to try to build pressure in the system. I was sure to keep the top end oiled manually and watched to see if any oil was coming up top. After about 6 times, I saw no difference in oil pressure and no oil coming to the cams.

The next thing I did was remove the oil filter and filled oil down the center channel in the block to add oil to the pump. The pump upon assembly was filled with pretty thick oil by the machine shop to properly prime it before install and I read that adding a bit more through the oil filter neck could help kick start it. At the same time, I checked to make sure the relief valve had no cracks and wasn't stuck. I tried the same process of turning it over for several tries of 30seconds+ with no pressure built.

Next, I read that a common reason is a dented oil pan or oil pickup strainer. I lifted the car and did notice some sizeable dents in the oil pan and decided to drop the pan to see if that was the culprit. With the pan out, the strainer's mesh was in fact dented in a bit and the dents in the pan looked rather bad. I repaired the mesh on the strainer's original shape and banged out the pan to no longer have the dents. I also checked the pressure regulator valve in the front cover while it was out to make sure it hadn't come out and that it moved properly with the spring. The regulator valve was fine and the oil strainer had no cracks or issues aside from the dented mesh. The gasket was also brand new. I put everything back together and filled it with oil and tried the same process of turning it over with the plugs out but still built absolutely 0 oil pressure. Frustrated, I started the car and ran it for about 10 seconds to see if it'd build pressure that way since it wouldn't do it with just the starter. Still nothing.

The oil pump ran fine before the rebuild and the engine was ok prior to the rebuild, I pulled it just to refresh it. I'm really trying to avoid having to remove the head to get the front cover off to physically check all the oil pump's clearances again so any help or guidance is much appreciated. I'm at a loss for what could possibly causing it to get absolutely no pressure at all. I added some pics below of the oil pan dent and fix and the page from the engine manual showing the different places to check. Please help!













Yes you do have to remove the head to get the front cover off. So then youd be up for a couple of hundred $$ in gaskets. Id try the compressed air through the dipstick tube first, what have you go to loose trying it. Seems like a cheaper option than whats in the video.
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Mason
Mason

March 4th, 2017, 11:52 pm #7

Good afternoon everyone. I have been scouring all over the internet in both English and Japanese to find a solution to my problem without much luck. I just finished a rebuild of my FJ20 for my DR30 and finished installing the engine. Upon initial start up, there was 0 oil pressure showing in the gauge cluster and I quickly shut the engine off. Based on my search, here is what I've done to try and diagnose the issue.

The first thing I did was remove the plugs and fuel pump relay and attached a mechanical oil pressure gauge to verify the lack of oil pressure. Turning the car over, there was absolutely 0 pressure, not even enough pressure to fill the gauge's tubing with oil let alone read any pressure. I went through the 30-90 second runs of turning the car over with the plugs out (to lessen the load) to try to build pressure in the system. I was sure to keep the top end oiled manually and watched to see if any oil was coming up top. After about 6 times, I saw no difference in oil pressure and no oil coming to the cams.

The next thing I did was remove the oil filter and filled oil down the center channel in the block to add oil to the pump. The pump upon assembly was filled with pretty thick oil by the machine shop to properly prime it before install and I read that adding a bit more through the oil filter neck could help kick start it. At the same time, I checked to make sure the relief valve had no cracks and wasn't stuck. I tried the same process of turning it over for several tries of 30seconds+ with no pressure built.

Next, I read that a common reason is a dented oil pan or oil pickup strainer. I lifted the car and did notice some sizeable dents in the oil pan and decided to drop the pan to see if that was the culprit. With the pan out, the strainer's mesh was in fact dented in a bit and the dents in the pan looked rather bad. I repaired the mesh on the strainer's original shape and banged out the pan to no longer have the dents. I also checked the pressure regulator valve in the front cover while it was out to make sure it hadn't come out and that it moved properly with the spring. The regulator valve was fine and the oil strainer had no cracks or issues aside from the dented mesh. The gasket was also brand new. I put everything back together and filled it with oil and tried the same process of turning it over with the plugs out but still built absolutely 0 oil pressure. Frustrated, I started the car and ran it for about 10 seconds to see if it'd build pressure that way since it wouldn't do it with just the starter. Still nothing.

The oil pump ran fine before the rebuild and the engine was ok prior to the rebuild, I pulled it just to refresh it. I'm really trying to avoid having to remove the head to get the front cover off to physically check all the oil pump's clearances again so any help or guidance is much appreciated. I'm at a loss for what could possibly causing it to get absolutely no pressure at all. I added some pics below of the oil pan dent and fix and the page from the engine manual showing the different places to check. Please help!













This is a fairly late response to my original post but thought I would update in case this issue pops up with any other FJ20 users in the future.

After trying everything to prime the pump, I ended up just disassembling everything to recheck clearances. The machine shop had sworn to me up and down that everything was done correctly and the lack of oil pressure had to have been caused by something I had done during install.

Upon disassembly of the engine, I had found that not only did they make a mistake with the oil pump, they completely forgot to even install one of the gears! The outer internal gear that is the main functioning component of the oil pump was nowhere to be found. The housing was empty outside the inner gear turned freely by the crank. I eventually had to purchase an entire FJ20 engine and disassemble that one to find a usable mated set of gears to then install back in my oil pump's housing. After the gears were installed and primed, wouldn't you know it, oil pressure was 100% fine.

I'm pursuing action against the machine shop but this is a cautionary tale to be sure your machine shop is reputable and double check even the most basic of things when diagnosing an issue.
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