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cobrafighter
Fizzmeister Extrodinaire
cobrafighter
Fizzmeister Extrodinaire
Joined: March 12th, 2007, 2:16 pm

July 13th, 2008, 4:32 pm #21

OK thanks mine is 1.6 ohms ht still high though no spark at points, is that good or bad? any way checked the ht for spark since I now had a resistance and it sparked!!!!!
tried to start the bike and it ran for about 3 secs, no spark at the points, using a mirror see. then would not start, checked spark none again I don't have an extractor till tomorrow/ tues so cannot pull the flywheel off. had a pock with a screw driver in and around the condencer, all seem secure and soldered ok it does not look dry jointed it seems to start to spark when it wants, I checked after touching each part but cannot narrow anything down. I am going to pull the ht coil out from the frame soom, and have a look. I think if I shov a new one in then I can eliminate it.

cobra
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cobrafighter
Fizzmeister Extrodinaire
cobrafighter
Fizzmeister Extrodinaire
Joined: March 12th, 2007, 2:16 pm

July 13th, 2008, 7:32 pm #22

well tested the ht resistance again and it was 23K!!! so something wrong. I pulled the coil out and (for you gaz) took the oppertunity to put another system earth lead in for the coil I love a good earth, don't you!!

anyway pulls the coil out and the ht joiner (supplied by yamaha) Mech you suspected this and you were right, had a split in it, the bikes only clocked up 5 bloody miles since this was new and rebuilt, on further examination it would bend in half and exposed a spring?
so I cut the insullation off and found this thing screws together with a pen like spring to join the 2 halves, absalute rubbish. I measured the ht coil resistance to now 5.2k so a marked change towards the book. I jerry rigged it up and it kicked over 1st time with no probs, revved and ticked over, so I think we have found the prob.

Guys never fit one of these joiners they are crap.
I assembled it and tested it no resistance through it., it is goosed

the points don;t spark either when it is running so assume this is correct for the future note. see pics below

now I think I may get a new unit (ht coil) and fit it. in the mean time I am just wondering best practice to join it, either solder, or cut a screw (tapper ) down and screw the 2 cables together and finally when joined encapsulate it in 2 pack poly resin. I have too do some of this work next week for some subsea cables so could cover it then. thanks for the fast responses. butties will be on me next week, as I said in the ace cafe post I still have not got transport, so if this is the case I will paypal andy web the cash for all to enjoy brekkie on me, well not all other wise I will be skint and need a new coil

so brekkie for
Mech
startermotor
FCA101
andy web
?another


Cobra





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Joined: July 13th, 2008, 8:01 pm

July 13th, 2008, 9:43 pm #23

Umm.

I may be way off the mark here, but that doesn't look like a sealed in HT lead to me. I know it's built in on some bikes but that looks strippable to me

If you pull back that rubber boot, I reckon you ought to be able to unscrew the HT lead from the coil and replace the whole bit.

New HT lead costs £1.18 per metre from www.wemoto.com.

Also, it may be that the Japanese would like to keep this top-secret but a 6v, direct ignition coil off one bike is very likely to be exactly the same as the 6v, direct ignition coil off any other bike. The Honda CG125 springs immediately to mind as being common as muck, as do earlier C90s.

This may upset purists but I can't see even the most rabid concorse show judge insisting you remove the battery box to check you have a standard coil fitted. If they did, there are a couple of BSA owners I could mention who I know for a fact have no gearbox internals in their highly polished casings!

You're on the right track with regard to screwing a self-tapper up each bit of HT lead. Pretty standard. People used to insulate them with a bit of rubber fuel hose and two small jubilee clips. Glue-lined shrinktube would be better I would say.

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cobrafighter
Fizzmeister Extrodinaire
cobrafighter
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Joined: March 12th, 2007, 2:16 pm

July 14th, 2008, 8:31 am #24

just checked and the ht end is encapsulated at the arrowed part

cheers
Cobra
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Joined: July 13th, 2008, 8:01 pm

July 14th, 2008, 11:09 am #25

Ah well, looked like it did. Probably loking at chopping the head off a self-tapper then. Probably worth cutting 1/2" off the coil end so you're joining freshly exposed copper and splicing a new bit on the end. HT lead is so cheap, it really isn't worth the bother re-using it.

Just been looking around. You can get a brand new, pattern coil for that bike for £17.50 or a Japanese made one for £28.25. Just so you know.

I noticed you are using those pre-insulated crimps on your wiring loom. In my experience they don't last very well on motorcycles (maybe 2 years before you start getting corrosion), they are more designed for automotive wiring which is more rigidly fixed and better protected from the elements. The main problem is they don't seal the insulation properly. Moisture tracks up the inside of the wire and rots it.

There is a place called www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk . They can sell you the proper, Japanese bullet connectors with the little silicone sleeves and the tool to crimp them on with. Once one of those little suckers is crimped on, you could hang the bike from it!

They are under "non-insulated terminals". Less than £2 for 50! http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... ullets.php
Or the kit, part number: N9MJ is great, includes bullets, insulation, the proper tool and a selection of the more peculiar terminal types.

If you are getting something from VWP, it's worth putting in a big order, see if mates need anything too because they hammer you a bit on posteage.

I accept no responsability for you spending your entire months wages on flick switches with little red covers after visiting the above website.
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cobrafighter
Fizzmeister Extrodinaire
cobrafighter
Fizzmeister Extrodinaire
Joined: March 12th, 2007, 2:16 pm

July 14th, 2008, 4:20 pm #26

I joined it today with a self tapper cut down and sharpened the end up. I then used self amangi tape and scotch cote resin, 3 layers. resistance for the finished unit was 5.6K
I will buy a new one as I don't want any hassle in the future with the coil then starting to break down under load etc, like you said its not worth it. I will keep this as a spare. going to lash it up temp for now to test the carb out and try and get some miles on the thing.
the crimps are Ok as I use a proper racket tool for macking them off, you would never pull out a wire with it made off with this tool

Cobra
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curlee1
Total Fizzy Nut
curlee1
Total Fizzy Nut
Joined: February 22nd, 2008, 4:39 pm

July 14th, 2008, 5:38 pm #27

love the heli
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cobrafighter
Fizzmeister Extrodinaire
cobrafighter
Fizzmeister Extrodinaire
Joined: March 12th, 2007, 2:16 pm

July 14th, 2008, 6:59 pm #28

stinkywheel,
I will prob get some of those connectors at some point, like you say when a few people are gettin stuff its worth it. will buy a new coil and bung this one in the spares box.

I need some bulbs, were do I buy them from?

Curlee1. yes I have owned the heli mechanics for 16 yrs, its a kyosho concept 60 with a TT hughes 90 size defender fuz. it flys great.

Cheers
Cobra
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Flika
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Flika
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Joined: November 23rd, 2007, 8:28 pm

July 15th, 2008, 7:29 am #29

If you carefully dig out the old HT lead from the coil you are left with a pin coming out the coil that slides into the ht lead, glue in a new length of lead just like the manufacturers did.


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cobrafighter
Fizzmeister Extrodinaire
cobrafighter
Fizzmeister Extrodinaire
Joined: March 12th, 2007, 2:16 pm

July 15th, 2008, 11:19 am #30

hmm. I will go for a new one then in the future I don't have to worry about it failing on an insulation test/break down of the coil. just thinking about eaglestans coil when he had issues with it. his all tested ok but would break down under load. I don't want to push the bike on the lanes!!

Cobra
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