Wanted More horsepower

Wanted More horsepower

Joined: December 5th, 2011, 12:21 pm

May 3rd, 2012, 11:37 am #1

Hi guys starting to build new engine for my dragster . Old engine was a std 2 bolt cleveland 383ci yates heads eagle svo crank scat rods 671 blower @ 28% overdrive block grout filled to top .
cam is a solid roller can,t find the sheet to give you the numbers . Comp 9-1 we shifted @ 8100rpm doing about 7500rpm across the line pb of 7.35 @181mph making around 1000 hp see clevelands rock on youtube page for video .
This engine threw a rod as a result of hydraulic lockup because idiot driver shut of ignition before selecting neutral .
New engine is a nascar 4 bolt cleveland we are thinking about going to 408ci lifting comp up to 9.5 to 10-1 block is grout filled to top.
Also spinning the blower a bit harder maybe 35% over .
Want to get this car into the 6second range properly need another 200hp.
My question is do you think this block will take this sort of abuse and can we still rev to around the 8000 rpm on 408ci .
kind regard Greg Gibson
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Joined: May 20th, 2005, 4:48 pm

May 3rd, 2012, 11:47 am #2

Which block is it? Is it a Ford Racing block with Cleveland mains?

No way I would trust a factory Cleveland block at that horsepower level....and I've never been convinced that a 4 bolt factory block is stronger than a 2 bolt factory block. A 4 bolt main won't keep the block from splitting in half from the cam tunnel down...



Brent Lykins
B2 Motorsports, LLC






Last edited by blykins on May 3rd, 2012, 11:48 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: November 28th, 2003, 9:26 am

May 3rd, 2012, 11:52 am #3

so bret what would you do
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Joined: November 28th, 2003, 9:26 am

May 3rd, 2012, 11:57 am #4

no brett the pillow block is way different to factory
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Joined: May 20th, 2005, 4:48 pm

May 3rd, 2012, 12:01 pm #5

so bret what would you do
...but if it were mine (or a customer of mine), I'd go with a new Dart Sportsman or Iron Eagle block.

I suppose I'm a little confused as to exactly what you have....is it a Ford Racing 9.200" block?

Brent Lykins
B2 Motorsports, LLC






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Joined: December 5th, 2011, 12:21 pm

May 3rd, 2012, 12:04 pm #6

Hi brent the block we have is a nascar xe block with the solid pan rails and solid main webs
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Joined: May 20th, 2005, 4:48 pm

May 3rd, 2012, 12:09 pm #7

It would make me pretty nervous to try to put 1200-1300hp through one. But the only alternative would be a modern aftermarket block with billet mains and ultra-thick cylinder walls and decks. $2500-3000 for that route, depending on the brand.

Brent Lykins
B2 Motorsports, LLC






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Joined: December 5th, 2011, 12:21 pm

May 3rd, 2012, 12:28 pm #8

My self and rickwestaust who helps with this car are our own wrest enemies because we want to stay as a true cleveland block and not a clevor style engine.
Don,t ask me to explain it just stubborn (or stupid) i gess greg
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Joined: February 3rd, 2003, 5:22 pm

May 3rd, 2012, 12:37 pm #9

It would make me pretty nervous to try to put 1200-1300hp through one. But the only alternative would be a modern aftermarket block with billet mains and ultra-thick cylinder walls and decks. $2500-3000 for that route, depending on the brand.

Brent Lykins
B2 Motorsports, LLC





to what Brent said on getting the best block. Used to race a injected gas Boss 302 F.E.D. not nearly as fast as your blower car but here's the deal. It's never a good thing in any dragster to blow up the bottom end and spew oil (and coolant if it's run in the heads) on the slicks at speed. One can say the same for a door slammer but here is a big difference: If the chute fails to pop at engine failure (or even if it does) and the rear tires are coated with oil, a dragster has lost its ability to quickly slow, let alone stop, DUE TO NO FRONT BRAKES! Ask me how I know this.

Now, if you run a pan containment blanket ala' the fuel cars (and I sure hope you do) this will minimize the effect of oiling the slicks in the lights. Also, if the shutdown areas at every track you run is at least 1,000' to say 1,320', this would help with oiled tires. Short shutoff areas can be deadly for the racer and the driver. Btw, this says nothing about what would happen if only one slick gets oiled and the dragster ends up pulling hard into the guard rail.



Last edited by machoneman on May 3rd, 2012, 5:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: May 20th, 2005, 4:48 pm

May 3rd, 2012, 12:43 pm #10

My self and rickwestaust who helps with this car are our own wrest enemies because we want to stay as a true cleveland block and not a clevor style engine.
Don,t ask me to explain it just stubborn (or stupid) i gess greg
I would take every step to make it live of course....concrete it, run ARP studs that will catch full thread engagement, etc. I would also run very high dollar rotating assembly parts if possible...Oliver or Crower rods, a billet crank, etc.

At 1200-1300 hp, I wouldn't even run a factory 460 block and they're not scared of anything...hahaha



Brent Lykins
B2 Motorsports, LLC






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