other ways to add HP

other ways to add HP

Joined: October 28th, 2008, 2:09 am

May 6th, 2012, 11:58 pm #1

i am looking to freshen my combo at the end of season and would like to gain some hp while doing it. current combo is

427cid clevor
man o war winsor block
4.125 bore/ probe domes, forged
4.00stroke, 4140 svo crank
eagle h-beams, L19 bolts
afd sp4vs unported heads, 335cfm at .700 flow #s
afd intake
solid roller cam, .710/.690
t&d shaft mounts
quickfuel E85 950 4150 carb
2 1/8 primary/4" collectors, headers
13.2 c/r
makes 660hp flywheel, 550 rwhp
2700lb foxbody full drag car
went 10.01@ 134 last season @ 2500 ft above sea level
is porting my heads the only option i have to gain hp? they made me get my nhra licence for 9.99 and quicker, so i guess i might as well go faster.
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: May 20th, 2005, 4:48 pm

May 7th, 2012, 12:31 am #2

Horsepower is basically in the top end of the motor, so you can step up to a more aggressive cam (do you have all the specs?), add head flow, or add compression.

I also don't know what kind of rings you're running, but there's power to be made in going to a very low tension ring pack, and running a vacuum pump. Running a dry sump oil pan with that combo can also free up some ponies.

Of course one of the ways that you can pickup your ET without adding horsepower is making the car/driver lighter.

Personally, I would have the heads looked at, critique the cam specs, and go to a vac pump if you're not running one.

Brent Lykins
B2 Motorsports, LLC






Last edited by blykins on May 7th, 2012, 12:32 am, edited 1 time in total.
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: October 28th, 2008, 2:09 am

May 7th, 2012, 2:45 am #3


rings total seal cr 1003 5
no pump i just have the evach breathers to the headers

ultra dyne bullet cam
grind number fw 314/322-08UR
part number 506000 sn S57896
intake exhaust
duration @.050 278 286
lobe lift .4176 .4060
separation 108. OP-CL OP-CL
TIMING EVENTS .050 35 63 75 31
DURATION .020 314 322
GROSS VALVE LIFT .710 .690
LASH HOT .026 .026
DEGREE INTAKE LOBE TO 104


thanks and how much is a pump and how much gain? i was waiting on the porting to see if dave at afd would have those HP heads done yet that flow 400+ @.700, and wanted to use these heads on my other engine for my street car.
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: May 20th, 2005, 4:48 pm

May 7th, 2012, 8:59 am #4

First thing is that the ring set that you have is a standard tension ring pack like we would use in a nice street engine. Probably a 20 lb oil ring tension. That's too much for a race motor. To give you an idea of how light they should be, I use a tapered ring compressor to knock pistons in, and with low tension "racy" rings, you just barely have to put pressure on them with your thumbs and they fall in. You can upgrade the rings to a nicer set....I would do a very low tension oil ring, Napier second, and then run the vacuum pump. I'd say you have the potential of picking up 30-40 hp there.

On the cam, the duration is good and the lift matches the numbers on the heads, so you're good there, but if you were willing to experiment, I think there are some other lobes (although more aggressive) that could net a few ponies.

One last thing is the ICL...how's it hooking right now? It may be worth a shot to move the ICL up to around 106-108. It may make it a little softer on the hole shot, but it might help it pull stronger on the big end.

Without seeing how the car hooks or performs, it's a little harder to diagnose across a forum, but these are all points for brainstorming.

I think the ring pack and vac pump is a sure thing though...

Brent Lykins
B2 Motorsports, LLC






Last edited by blykins on May 7th, 2012, 9:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: October 28th, 2008, 2:09 am

May 7th, 2012, 12:16 pm #5

last season the best 60' was 1.41, i think it should be around 1.35, i done a little work to the suspension in the off season. pinion angle was +9, so i added the double adjustment to the ladder bars, also the coil overs were out of wack on the adjustments. only had it to the track for 2 passes, then i was having ignition problems, so didnt get a chance to see if it was any better. and that was on a hoosier quicktime pro dot tire(29x14.5x15). going to a slick this year.
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: May 20th, 2005, 4:48 pm

May 7th, 2012, 12:46 pm #6

...will give you a nice little reward. You can also mess with the cam timing and see if you can gain some that way. If it's hooking hard with a good 60' time, you may want to leave it where it is, but if it's breaking traction on the launch, I'd definitely try a cam timing retard.

Brent Lykins
B2 Motorsports, LLC






Quote
Like
Share

Joined: June 16th, 2004, 4:57 am

May 7th, 2012, 1:11 pm #7

last season the best 60' was 1.41, i think it should be around 1.35, i done a little work to the suspension in the off season. pinion angle was +9, so i added the double adjustment to the ladder bars, also the coil overs were out of wack on the adjustments. only had it to the track for 2 passes, then i was having ignition problems, so didnt get a chance to see if it was any better. and that was on a hoosier quicktime pro dot tire(29x14.5x15). going to a slick this year.
<div>Having 9 degrees of pinion angle is kinda scary, regardless if it's positive or negative. Spicer's web site used to recommend a maximum of only 3.5* U-joint operating angle (aka "pinion angle") with their U-joints.</div><div> </div><div>-9.00 degrees of pinion angle (driveshaft C/L vs pinion C/L combined to form U-joint operating angle) on a ladder bar car makes for a whole lot of possible U-joint binding going on under launch loading. And if that rear 9* pinion/operating angle is way off what the the operating angle up at the front slip yoke U-joint is, you can end up with a decent front/rear U-joint phasing/vibration problem.  </div><div> </div><div>With a ladder bar car I usually use a range anywhere from -1.00* to -2.50* pinion angle/U-joint operating angle between the driveshaft C/L & the pinion C/L. The "best" number to use really depends on how much power the car has to work with, if it's a "strip only" car vs a street/highway driven car, and what the U-joint angle is up at the front slip yoke. On some of the top of the line "Pro Mod" style 4-link setups that use fairly large diameter tubing (for the 4-link bars) I have seen as little as -.75* (three quarters of 1 degree) to -1.00* pinion angle because the large diameter bars flex/bow so much less than the 4-links with smaller OD bars.</div>

Quote
Like
Share

Joined: March 8th, 2009, 5:07 pm

May 7th, 2012, 1:14 pm #8

i am looking to freshen my combo at the end of season and would like to gain some hp while doing it. current combo is

427cid clevor
man o war winsor block
4.125 bore/ probe domes, forged
4.00stroke, 4140 svo crank
eagle h-beams, L19 bolts
afd sp4vs unported heads, 335cfm at .700 flow #s
afd intake
solid roller cam, .710/.690
t&d shaft mounts
quickfuel E85 950 4150 carb
2 1/8 primary/4" collectors, headers
13.2 c/r
makes 660hp flywheel, 550 rwhp
2700lb foxbody full drag car
went 10.01@ 134 last season @ 2500 ft above sea level
is porting my heads the only option i have to gain hp? they made me get my nhra licence for 9.99 and quicker, so i guess i might as well go faster.
how high are you twisting it josh
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: October 28th, 2008, 2:09 am

May 8th, 2012, 2:51 am #9

<div>Having 9 degrees of pinion angle is kinda scary, regardless if it's positive or negative. Spicer's web site used to recommend a maximum of only 3.5* U-joint operating angle (aka "pinion angle") with their U-joints.</div><div> </div><div>-9.00 degrees of pinion angle (driveshaft C/L vs pinion C/L combined to form U-joint operating angle) on a ladder bar car makes for a whole lot of possible U-joint binding going on under launch loading. And if that rear 9* pinion/operating angle is way off what the the operating angle up at the front slip yoke U-joint is, you can end up with a decent front/rear U-joint phasing/vibration problem.  </div><div> </div><div>With a ladder bar car I usually use a range anywhere from -1.00* to -2.50* pinion angle/U-joint operating angle between the driveshaft C/L & the pinion C/L. The "best" number to use really depends on how much power the car has to work with, if it's a "strip only" car vs a street/highway driven car, and what the U-joint angle is up at the front slip yoke. On some of the top of the line "Pro Mod" style 4-link setups that use fairly large diameter tubing (for the 4-link bars) I have seen as little as -.75* (three quarters of 1 degree) to -1.00* pinion angle because the large diameter bars flex/bow so much less than the 4-links with smaller OD bars.</div>

thanks for the help
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: October 28th, 2008, 2:09 am

May 8th, 2012, 2:54 am #10

how high are you twisting it josh
peak power at 6600rpm peak torq at 5700rpm, thanks for the help
Quote
Like
Share