I've got a problem.

I've got a problem.

Joined: September 6th, 2010, 5:18 pm

April 23rd, 2012, 12:28 am #1

So I finally got my engine in the car and cranked up. First thing I noticed was how fast this engine warmed up, much faster than any carbureted engine I've dealt with. Temp stayed around 195-205 with electric fans running while I was checking the transmission fluid level and looking for leaks/checking timing. Only leak I had was water coming out of the overflow on the radiator for a second. Figured I just had a bit to much in there and it got pushed out. Had it running for 15 minutes then I shut it down to take a phone call. I noticed a weird gushing sound coming from the passenger side of the engine. I chalked it up to an air bubble. Then I took it for a short drive, maybe 2 miles. I was just babying it and being cautious at first. Water temp was ok but fluctuated quickly between 185-200. On the way back I decided to whammer on it, smoked the tires a little bit which didn't take much. Looked down and the temp was at 235! I immediately shut it off, get out it gushed water out the overflow. I let it cool down and limped it the 1/4 mile back home. Pull in the shop, water temp is 190 shut it off get out and hear a very strange gurgle, pulsing sound from the cooling system. The upper radiator hose is actually moving and I can feel air bubbles inside of it. Weird thing is I never noticed this on the dyno. Now, I DO have the brass restrictor installed, and I Do have the correct robert shaw 180 thermostat. No water in oil. I did a search and think that I must have put a head gasket on backwards. Since this engine has 5 dyno pulls and 2 street miles, is there a chance I can just get some new cometics and put it back together? Or would that warp the head/block? Feeling pretty dumb right about now.
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Joined: October 1st, 2004, 8:05 pm

April 23rd, 2012, 12:40 am #2

You've put one of the head gaskets on backwards

a lot of people have done it, don't feel bad.

-G
Last edited by gpence on April 23rd, 2012, 12:41 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: April 30th, 2005, 7:32 am

April 23rd, 2012, 4:39 am #3

There is a visual way to be absolutely sure your head gaskets are on wrong or right,
Last edited by usssanut351 on April 23rd, 2012, 4:41 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: December 16th, 2003, 1:59 am

April 23rd, 2012, 6:07 am #4

So I finally got my engine in the car and cranked up. First thing I noticed was how fast this engine warmed up, much faster than any carbureted engine I've dealt with. Temp stayed around 195-205 with electric fans running while I was checking the transmission fluid level and looking for leaks/checking timing. Only leak I had was water coming out of the overflow on the radiator for a second. Figured I just had a bit to much in there and it got pushed out. Had it running for 15 minutes then I shut it down to take a phone call. I noticed a weird gushing sound coming from the passenger side of the engine. I chalked it up to an air bubble. Then I took it for a short drive, maybe 2 miles. I was just babying it and being cautious at first. Water temp was ok but fluctuated quickly between 185-200. On the way back I decided to whammer on it, smoked the tires a little bit which didn't take much. Looked down and the temp was at 235! I immediately shut it off, get out it gushed water out the overflow. I let it cool down and limped it the 1/4 mile back home. Pull in the shop, water temp is 190 shut it off get out and hear a very strange gurgle, pulsing sound from the cooling system. The upper radiator hose is actually moving and I can feel air bubbles inside of it. Weird thing is I never noticed this on the dyno. Now, I DO have the brass restrictor installed, and I Do have the correct robert shaw 180 thermostat. No water in oil. I did a search and think that I must have put a head gasket on backwards. Since this engine has 5 dyno pulls and 2 street miles, is there a chance I can just get some new cometics and put it back together? Or would that warp the head/block? Feeling pretty dumb right about now.
all the instances of backwards head gasket i recall, the engine would not maintain stable normal running temp at all, it would rapidly heat right past ~200+ heading for meltdown within minutes not leaving any opportunity for a test drive... then again every combo is different

there was a mile long thread years ago of an overheating problem, both gaskets showed the tabs at the front of the engine indicating they were installed correctly yet it still overheated despite every fix tried. turned out there was loose scale blocking the head gasket holes, only found upon teardown

so it holds normal temp at idle?

what fan & waterpump, not from a reverse rotation app?

shroud?

radiator is clean, large enough?

what's the timing at?

proven carb that has been run before?

check for a vacuum leak; manifold, carb & plates for an open port, carb flange for warping

during the 5 dyno pulls was the engine brought up to temp and held stable through the pulls or was the coolant source constant cold water? if this issue didn't surface on the dyno, what changed?



there'll be phantoms, there'll be fires on the road... and the white man dancing
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Joined: December 23rd, 2008, 10:15 am

April 23rd, 2012, 7:11 am #5

There is a visual way to be absolutely sure your head gaskets are on wrong or right,
Here's a pic of the head before the gasket goes on...

Last edited by HOT_ROD_CAR on April 23rd, 2012, 9:33 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: December 16th, 2003, 1:59 am

April 23rd, 2012, 9:21 am #6

goes to the rear. i hope there's not a gasket on the deck surface in the pic above? the blocked off end goes to the front



there'll be phantoms, there'll be fires on the road... and the white man dancing
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Joined: December 23rd, 2008, 10:15 am

April 23rd, 2012, 9:46 am #7

I posted a pic without the head gasket installed. Thanks for posting the correct pic.
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Joined: May 20th, 2005, 4:48 pm

April 23rd, 2012, 11:00 am #8

So I finally got my engine in the car and cranked up. First thing I noticed was how fast this engine warmed up, much faster than any carbureted engine I've dealt with. Temp stayed around 195-205 with electric fans running while I was checking the transmission fluid level and looking for leaks/checking timing. Only leak I had was water coming out of the overflow on the radiator for a second. Figured I just had a bit to much in there and it got pushed out. Had it running for 15 minutes then I shut it down to take a phone call. I noticed a weird gushing sound coming from the passenger side of the engine. I chalked it up to an air bubble. Then I took it for a short drive, maybe 2 miles. I was just babying it and being cautious at first. Water temp was ok but fluctuated quickly between 185-200. On the way back I decided to whammer on it, smoked the tires a little bit which didn't take much. Looked down and the temp was at 235! I immediately shut it off, get out it gushed water out the overflow. I let it cool down and limped it the 1/4 mile back home. Pull in the shop, water temp is 190 shut it off get out and hear a very strange gurgle, pulsing sound from the cooling system. The upper radiator hose is actually moving and I can feel air bubbles inside of it. Weird thing is I never noticed this on the dyno. Now, I DO have the brass restrictor installed, and I Do have the correct robert shaw 180 thermostat. No water in oil. I did a search and think that I must have put a head gasket on backwards. Since this engine has 5 dyno pulls and 2 street miles, is there a chance I can just get some new cometics and put it back together? Or would that warp the head/block? Feeling pretty dumb right about now.
Brent Lykins
B2 Motorsports, LLC






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Joined: September 6th, 2010, 5:18 pm

April 23rd, 2012, 1:10 pm #9

all the instances of backwards head gasket i recall, the engine would not maintain stable normal running temp at all, it would rapidly heat right past ~200+ heading for meltdown within minutes not leaving any opportunity for a test drive... then again every combo is different

there was a mile long thread years ago of an overheating problem, both gaskets showed the tabs at the front of the engine indicating they were installed correctly yet it still overheated despite every fix tried. turned out there was loose scale blocking the head gasket holes, only found upon teardown

so it holds normal temp at idle?

what fan & waterpump, not from a reverse rotation app?

shroud?

radiator is clean, large enough?

what's the timing at?

proven carb that has been run before?

check for a vacuum leak; manifold, carb & plates for an open port, carb flange for warping

during the 5 dyno pulls was the engine brought up to temp and held stable through the pulls or was the coolant source constant cold water? if this issue didn't surface on the dyno, what changed?



there'll be phantoms, there'll be fires on the road... and the white man dancing
Tinman,

It does hold temp at idle between 195-205 but it sure puked out alot of water. The radiator is new and clean, its for a big block. Water pump is a stock rebuilt unit. I am not using a shroud, but the fan is so large there is only 1.5 inches between the fan and the side of the radiator. Fan is working correctly and on a toggle switch. Timing is verified at 14 initial and 32 all in. The carb is proven, same one I used on the dyno. I haven't checked for a vacuum leak and will do so today. It was broken in on the dyno for almost 20 minutes. It ran 215-220 on break in. During 5 dyno pulls it ran between 200-210. I don't think it was constant cold water, but he had a very large coolant tower. The only thing that changed from dyno to car was the pulley system up front. On the dyno I just had the stock water pump/crank pulley with a short v-belt. In the car I'm using a serpentine belt with a March #2004 water pump pulley and matching crank pulley, that are for a 5.0 mustang with a tuffstuff alternator. The second I lay into the car the temp jumps. The thing that bothers me the most is the sound it made when shut off with temp at 190. Now that I think about it I could hear it from the drivers seat. I could actually see the radiator hose moving just like a damn snake. I've seen some air bubbles/burps with stuff before but never anything like this.
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Joined: February 3rd, 2003, 5:22 pm

April 23rd, 2012, 1:24 pm #10


Brent Lykins
B2 Motorsports, LLC





at this pic and see the small tab to the right of the head bolt. Yes, it's a W head but all C's, FE's and W's have the same head gasket tab. If both appear at the lower front edge of each head, the gaskets are on correctly. Easy to flip one or both and get it wrong.

For air in the system, one trick is to jack up the car a foot or so and run it with the cap off until it's hot. This often aids in eliminating possible air bubbles.

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