I need a cam. Solid roller street grind.

I need a cam. Solid roller street grind.

Joined: August 28th, 2002, 6:51 pm

January 4th, 2012, 10:37 pm #1

Well, as some of you know by reading my miser build thread, I will need two cams as my current cam has a bad dizz gear.

It is time to order the solid roller cam.

I already have some perfectly good Crower solid roller lifters with the HIPPO system (High Pressure Pin Oiling)that shoots oil into the roller bearings. These are supposed to live on the street and so far they have...Part Number: 66218H-16.

I'm going down a bit from my previous cam specs. The reason is I'll be switching to a lock up converter for my AOD trans. With a lock up, you can't have a wild cam as the engine will buck and kick while locked cruising along at 1600-1800 rpm. Just like a manual trans car will when driven to slow for the gear you are in with a bigger cam.

My old cam was a Comp magnum 288R, 244/244, .623/.623, 110 LSA.
My guess is I need something 10-15 degrees less duration and perhaps on a 112 or 114 LSA. I still want some lope at idle and I want ramps that are easy on the valve train. I know I will be giving up some hp. I may be gaining torque though

I would also really like to re-use my Crower valve springs, locks and retainers. They are part number 68385x2-16 if specs are needed.

The engine will have my 0.030" over TRW/Speed pro 7049P pop up pistons. they are 0.010" down in the hole at TDC. I already have and will use Felpro 1013 head gaskets.
I have a choice of heads to use. I can use 4V closed chamber iron heads which will be close to 12:1 compression or I can use 4V open chamber iron heads for about 10.4:1 compression. I used the closed chamber heads with the 288R cam and could run 93 pump gas no problem (with timing set about 32 degrees total).
Running 93 gas in this engine is fine as it is what I'm used to. (Info: When I went to the strip before, I would run 110 race gas and crank the timing to 38-40 degrees).

I have a choice of intake also. I have a Torker, Offy Dual Port and a Holley Strip Dom. I was running the Strip Dom with the 288R cam also.

There has been a lot of discussion on cam timing specifically intake valve closing events. I'll leave that matter up to the cam grinder as I'm not an expert. I'm confident a custom cam will be better than an off the shelf cam.
besides, there aren't a lot of solid street rollers to pick from off the shelf...

I still want the engine to produce as much hp/torque as possible and yes, I will still be going to the drag strip now and again. I know it might not turn high 11's anymore...
The car will have an AOD with the wide ratio gear set and a 4:11 rear end. Stall will be 3000 ish, depending on what the new cam requires. Ready to run weight is about 3300 lbs.

Suggestions and specs are Very Welcome.

Danford1
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Joined: May 20th, 2005, 4:48 pm

January 5th, 2012, 2:25 am #2

...will put you in a spot where a solid roller really isn't effective. Everyone has their own views, but I generally save a solid roller cam for the guys really wanting to get up above 6400-6500 rpm. Solid rollers have their inherent flaws, such as lifter life, spring life, etc. It would almost be a shame to go through the maintenance for an engine that won't peak past 6000.

With that being said, I've had good luck with the Comp Xtreme Energy street rollers, and something around a 236° duration would probably put you around where you want to be. A 112-114° LSA will cut down the lope, but will give you a nice clean idle and some extra vacuum.

The Magnum lobes are the easiest on the valvetrain, but IMO, I'd rather run a hydraulic roller instead. Those Xtreme Energy lobes are the next ones down in terms of valvetrain gentleness.

You sure you don't wanna sell your lifters and springs and trade for a hydraulic roller?

Brent Lykins
B2 Motorsports, LLC






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Joined: January 10th, 2002, 5:53 pm

January 5th, 2012, 9:36 pm #3

Well, as some of you know by reading my miser build thread, I will need two cams as my current cam has a bad dizz gear.

It is time to order the solid roller cam.

I already have some perfectly good Crower solid roller lifters with the HIPPO system (High Pressure Pin Oiling)that shoots oil into the roller bearings. These are supposed to live on the street and so far they have...Part Number: 66218H-16.

I'm going down a bit from my previous cam specs. The reason is I'll be switching to a lock up converter for my AOD trans. With a lock up, you can't have a wild cam as the engine will buck and kick while locked cruising along at 1600-1800 rpm. Just like a manual trans car will when driven to slow for the gear you are in with a bigger cam.

My old cam was a Comp magnum 288R, 244/244, .623/.623, 110 LSA.
My guess is I need something 10-15 degrees less duration and perhaps on a 112 or 114 LSA. I still want some lope at idle and I want ramps that are easy on the valve train. I know I will be giving up some hp. I may be gaining torque though

I would also really like to re-use my Crower valve springs, locks and retainers. They are part number 68385x2-16 if specs are needed.

The engine will have my 0.030" over TRW/Speed pro 7049P pop up pistons. they are 0.010" down in the hole at TDC. I already have and will use Felpro 1013 head gaskets.
I have a choice of heads to use. I can use 4V closed chamber iron heads which will be close to 12:1 compression or I can use 4V open chamber iron heads for about 10.4:1 compression. I used the closed chamber heads with the 288R cam and could run 93 pump gas no problem (with timing set about 32 degrees total).
Running 93 gas in this engine is fine as it is what I'm used to. (Info: When I went to the strip before, I would run 110 race gas and crank the timing to 38-40 degrees).

I have a choice of intake also. I have a Torker, Offy Dual Port and a Holley Strip Dom. I was running the Strip Dom with the 288R cam also.

There has been a lot of discussion on cam timing specifically intake valve closing events. I'll leave that matter up to the cam grinder as I'm not an expert. I'm confident a custom cam will be better than an off the shelf cam.
besides, there aren't a lot of solid street rollers to pick from off the shelf...

I still want the engine to produce as much hp/torque as possible and yes, I will still be going to the drag strip now and again. I know it might not turn high 11's anymore...
The car will have an AOD with the wide ratio gear set and a 4:11 rear end. Stall will be 3000 ish, depending on what the new cam requires. Ready to run weight is about 3300 lbs.

Suggestions and specs are Very Welcome.

Danford1
Maybe look at getting a "copy" of the old Crane 238/248 solid. Mine is on 108 centers and makes good power for a small cam, but likes a lot of initial or locked at 38. Put the same lobes on 110 or 112 and you might like it. Just a suggestion, something people with more cam know-how could chew on.

1967 Falcon 4 door 351C-4V
1970 Mustang 351C-2V
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
Owner built, owner abused.
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Joined: August 28th, 2002, 6:51 pm

January 6th, 2012, 12:03 am #4

I guess I never really thought about selling the springs and lifters? I don't know what someone would care to pay for them. I know they cost me plenty when I bought them, like $650 for lifters and $200 for springs... plus tax and shipping...
Since I already have them , I would like to use them. In the future if I ever went bigger on the cam, I would appreciate already having the expensive lifters.

Good point about taking 10-15 degrees out of a solid roller. Thanks, I didn't think of that.

Can Extreme Energy style lobes be custom ground on a solid roller cam?

Re-thinking things, 236 duration ground on a 112 LSA sounds good to me.
How long does it take to get one ground?

I found this Crane while surfing, are these hard on valve trains?http://www.cranecams.com/product/cart.p ... il&p=24719
238/246, .609/.626, 112 LSA.

So much to learn. The more you learn the more confused you get when buying something.

Danford1
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Joined: May 20th, 2005, 4:48 pm

January 6th, 2012, 2:06 am #5

With a few exceptions, any cam combination can be custom ground using any lobe in the lobe catalog.

If you were going to do one, the Xtreme Energy lobes would be the best bet and I would put them on a billet core.

A custom cam usually takes about a week to get ground and get to the customer. Doesn't take long at all.

Brent Lykins
B2 Motorsports, LLC






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Joined: August 28th, 2002, 6:51 pm

January 6th, 2012, 2:56 am #6

Sounds good.
Now I just have to get the specs finalized, then give you a call

Danford1
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Joined: May 20th, 2005, 4:48 pm

January 6th, 2012, 12:24 pm #7

If you're set on a more streetable cam, I would do something like this:

Single pattern, 236/236, 112 LSA, .650"/.650" with 1.73 RR, based on Xtreme Energy lobes.

This is more of an aggressive lobe than your 288R cam, plus we're stepping down in duration. Advertised duration on this one is 274 compared to your previous 288. That raises DCR up substantially...so I wouldn't even think about running the closed chamber heads.

This is still raising flags in the back of my mind...and I would still advise you to switch to a hydraulic roller. It's just a lot of "inconveniences" for a sub-6000 rpm street car.

Brent Lykins
B2 Motorsports, LLC






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Joined: August 28th, 2002, 6:51 pm

January 6th, 2012, 2:19 pm #8

Thank you.
I'll have to re-think this. I've been trying to utilize what I already have on hand without buying more stuff, like hydro lifters. Perhaps what I want isn't doable with what I have.
My other option would be to simply plop in another 288R Comp cam. The engine was happy with it before. I would just have to alter some other plans I had.
Altering plans is something I've been doing a lot of lately...

Danford1
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Joined: October 1st, 2004, 1:55 pm

January 6th, 2012, 5:34 pm #9

Danford1,

I had a solid roller in my last 351 cleveland with the following spec's:

234/236 @.050, .588/.588 lift 110 LSA

It powered my 3500 lb Mustang to 115.89 MPH 1/4 miles, and was very tame, pulling 14" of vacuum. Great street cam.

I think Brett's last recommendation for a cam would be very nice and would peak way above 6,000 RPM's if you you got the valve events right; like having the Intake Valve Closing at 72 degrees minimum (.006 lift). Good luck and I'm very curious to see what you decide on.
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Joined: December 17th, 2008, 5:40 pm

January 6th, 2012, 5:46 pm #10

I guess I never really thought about selling the springs and lifters? I don't know what someone would care to pay for them. I know they cost me plenty when I bought them, like $650 for lifters and $200 for springs... plus tax and shipping...
Since I already have them , I would like to use them. In the future if I ever went bigger on the cam, I would appreciate already having the expensive lifters.

Good point about taking 10-15 degrees out of a solid roller. Thanks, I didn't think of that.

Can Extreme Energy style lobes be custom ground on a solid roller cam?

Re-thinking things, 236 duration ground on a 112 LSA sounds good to me.
How long does it take to get one ground?

I found this Crane while surfing, are these hard on valve trains?http://www.cranecams.com/product/cart.p ... il&p=24719
238/246, .609/.626, 112 LSA.

So much to learn. The more you learn the more confused you get when buying something.

Danford1
I've used this crane cam you linked specs to Danford for 10years in my bracket car.Very easy on valve train parts.It makes 550hp at 6600rpm,510lb-ft at5800rpm in a CHI 218cc headed 393.
Last edited by johncroft on January 6th, 2012, 5:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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