3rd build this year.. some input... Street build...

3rd build this year.. some input... Street build...

Joined: January 15th, 2009, 1:00 am

May 19th, 2012, 1:29 pm #1

Well my dad built his high reving stock stroke 351C the thing is a animial on the track... not street friendly 12.1 compression.. in a gutted and caged 67 mustang with a c4.. footbraking it hits 10.80s passes... hes thinking he can get it to 10.60s

my 408C build went ok...ran awesome!! but long story short.. got a offer i couldnt refuse from a longtime friend...so i actually made money on my build..

NOW i know it seems silly to some but im working on a 68 fastbakc mustang... to be a daily driver...all but winter.. (thats what the beater f250 is for haha) I just want to make sure im on the right track as far as a 351c that will still make power but i can go out turn the key and have a nice 650-800 rpm idle... the 68 has all new suspension.. (roller perches, uca,lca, 560 springs, etc etc) so its going to handle well.. it has 4.10 gears... and a t5z should handle abotu 425hp and 400 torque. so im thinking a decent 351c is great... here is a list of what i have right now to get this done!

im thinking roughly 10.1 compression
4v cc heads (already have good valves no porting)(have)
f238 cam? (how do they idle??) (if not a good idle what is a good street grind for 4v heads)
stock rod arp bolts (have)
stock crank (have)
deep pan with good pump
torker intake with clover 1" spacer (have)
750dp (have)
roller rockers(have)

just need a cam,pitsons,and oil pan...

goal is a 12 second daily driver 68 mustang...has a t5z... 4.11 gears 9" rear.. stock body, stock interior..

any opinons are appreicated on a good street 4v build...
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Joined: May 20th, 2005, 4:48 pm

May 19th, 2012, 3:39 pm #2

...because everyone's opinion is different. Is it a 5500 peak or a 7000 rpm peak?

Also, be very ginger with that T5Z as it's not rated for what you think it is...If you plan to keep it, I'd put some cheap tires on the back or a weak clutch so that you'll have a safety factor. Otherwise you'll scatter that thing from here to Kalamazoo.

Brent Lykins
B2 Motorsports, LLC






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Joined: October 28th, 2008, 2:38 am

May 19th, 2012, 8:51 pm #3

The t5z has a gforce 3rd gear.. And cluster support etc... That I put in it...
But car will just have street tires..

Really street daily is can idle at stop lights... Idle around 650-800rpm... Doesn't over heat in traffic etc...
As far as power shiftpoint around 6500 is fine even 6800 is fine... Just not a total dog off idle...
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Joined: May 20th, 2005, 4:48 pm

May 20th, 2012, 12:10 pm #4

...my inclination would be to let it eat a little bit. I wouldn't get carried away with it though...just remember that the more you shift the curve to the right, the more it takes away from power on the left.

Somewhere around a 230-232° @ .050" would work really nice for you. For something that needs to have manners down low, easy tunability, etc, I would skip the huge duration gap between the intake and exhaust and either go for a single pattern cam, or something with just 2-4° split. You don't need it to "hang on" at higher rpms and you're not making up for poor exhaust flow. I'd rather have the lower amount of overlap.

Brent Lykins
B2 Motorsports, LLC






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Joined: December 16th, 2003, 1:59 am

May 20th, 2012, 9:10 pm #5

http://www.network54.com/Forum/119419/m ... +for+a+run

there'll be phantoms, there'll be fires on the road... and the white man dancing
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Joined: October 28th, 2008, 2:38 am

May 21st, 2012, 12:17 pm #6

I really like that cj cam you posted up... It's right on with what Brent said and looks great... Especially with the 115 lobe separation... Should idle good and sounds like I'll be buying that paired with a torker and 10.1 compression... 4v cc heads... This thing should be a real nice grocery getter...
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Joined: May 20th, 2005, 4:48 pm

May 21st, 2012, 12:45 pm #7



Brent Lykins
B2 Motorsports, LLC






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Joined: January 10th, 2002, 5:53 pm

May 21st, 2012, 1:39 pm #8

Well my dad built his high reving stock stroke 351C the thing is a animial on the track... not street friendly 12.1 compression.. in a gutted and caged 67 mustang with a c4.. footbraking it hits 10.80s passes... hes thinking he can get it to 10.60s

my 408C build went ok...ran awesome!! but long story short.. got a offer i couldnt refuse from a longtime friend...so i actually made money on my build..

NOW i know it seems silly to some but im working on a 68 fastbakc mustang... to be a daily driver...all but winter.. (thats what the beater f250 is for haha) I just want to make sure im on the right track as far as a 351c that will still make power but i can go out turn the key and have a nice 650-800 rpm idle... the 68 has all new suspension.. (roller perches, uca,lca, 560 springs, etc etc) so its going to handle well.. it has 4.10 gears... and a t5z should handle abotu 425hp and 400 torque. so im thinking a decent 351c is great... here is a list of what i have right now to get this done!

im thinking roughly 10.1 compression
4v cc heads (already have good valves no porting)(have)
f238 cam? (how do they idle??) (if not a good idle what is a good street grind for 4v heads)
stock rod arp bolts (have)
stock crank (have)
deep pan with good pump
torker intake with clover 1" spacer (have)
750dp (have)
roller rockers(have)

just need a cam,pitsons,and oil pan...

goal is a 12 second daily driver 68 mustang...has a t5z... 4.11 gears 9" rear.. stock body, stock interior..

any opinons are appreicated on a good street 4v build...
F-238 has too much overlap for when dialed in that, unless you like locking the advance at 38 and idling at 1000 on a street car. I'd use the what Brent said, something in the 230 range, hydro, 110 LSA. A dual plane air gap intake with an Ed 750 would be better for a daily than a Torker and regular 750DP but either could be made to work. 12s doesn't take a lot of work or power - Falcon runs mid 12s with a 302, 9:1, 216/228 cam and very small heads.

1967 Falcon 4 door 351C-4V
1970 Mustang 351C-2V
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
Owner built, owner abused.
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Joined: December 16th, 2003, 1:59 am

May 21st, 2012, 4:30 pm #9


Brent Lykins
B2 Motorsports, LLC





well, being a street/daily ap with mufflers & presumably tailpipes, that dictates the wide split

and with a 4.11 i'd be looking for the wide LSA for some extended rpm. tighten the LSA, advance it more & shorten duration and it'll be winded at 45 mph

there'll be phantoms, there'll be fires on the road... and the white man dancing
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Joined: May 20th, 2005, 4:48 pm

May 21st, 2012, 5:22 pm #10

You'd be surprised at what a narrow LSA and advanced cam timing will do. Last 351 4V that I had on the pump peaked at 6200 and pulled easily to 6500 with a 110 LSA and the cam timing set 6° advanced....with only 230° duration at .050".

People tend to think that advanced cam timing absolutely kills the top end, but that's not the case at all. In some of the 1/8th mile drag race motors around here, you'll see 98° ICL's to help the engine develop some "butt" on the launch...then pull to 8000 as they cross the traps.

A wide split on the intake/exhaust on a daily driver is actually counter-intuitive. That split increases overlap, which will dirty up the idle/low end in a hurry, plus kill vacuum.

I only use 112-114° LSA's on EFI engines where the knock sensors throw a fit if the engine has any cam. Otherwise a 110-112 LSA works perfectly well.

I agree, with the 4.11 gears, I would add a little duration to keep it "fun", but I would steer clear of the wide LSA's, retarded (or straight up) cam timing, and the 10° splits.



Brent Lykins
B2 Motorsports, LLC






Last edited by blykins on May 21st, 2012, 5:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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