#3 cyl int.rocker slop

#3 cyl int.rocker slop

Joined: December 14th, 2011, 2:03 pm

August 6th, 2012, 3:57 pm #1

i am a newbie with internal repairs
but i have a right bank tick and i pulled valve cover and and the rocker arms are all torqued to spec but the #3 intake rockers has slop to it, not a lot but a difference from the rest.
,also the intake on two there is no roll on the pushrod as far as rolling it with fingers compared to rest.
any thoughts
bad lifter on #3 ?
bent rod on #2 ?
be big be a builder
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Joined: August 11th, 2005, 2:16 pm

August 6th, 2012, 5:14 pm #2

Was the cam new recently? Maybe it's wiped a lobe, easily done unless great care taken to bed the cam properly. Flat tappet, right?
Cheers, Martin
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Joined: December 14th, 2011, 2:03 pm

August 6th, 2012, 5:38 pm #3

the car came over in 2005? god knows how old the build is.
i thought as much but i needed second opinion and can only read so much.
due to budget i am pulling from donor engine whatever i need as all parts are new
i have a new build 351M engine that i traded for
but the bellhousing does not match my c-4.
due to limited budget O ,i cannot afford new bellhousing or c-6 conversion at this time to use M engine.
i am keeping oz block c-4 combo for now.
so i think i will use new cam and timing set and lifters from M engine that has never been fired,buy new push rods for the clev block.
i have the 2v m heads with new valves that i will use also, i figure the springs and rockers and everything is fitted to cam combo .
this will give me a chance to redo oz heads
and re bearing lower end.and i have a older friend that has years of rebuild experience that will help with measuring and specs.
be big be a builder
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Joined: February 28th, 2008, 4:15 pm

August 7th, 2012, 1:09 am #4

You could have wear on your fulcrums & rocker arms. I would pull the pushrods out and check for straightness. If straight, I would pull intake and check lifters for wear. If all good get a couple of .060 over pushrods.
Andy
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Joined: December 14th, 2011, 2:03 pm

August 7th, 2012, 3:01 am #5

friday the 13 the timing jumped and i replaced the timing set and fuel pump.
also replaced the cast manifold for a Performer 351 2v manifold for my 600 holley
i have a complete set of 2v heads D1A2
with new valves 2.04 1.67 fresh springs valve seals etc. plus new rockers that i am going to use
on the oz shortblock. i think i might lose a bit of comp but i can live with it.
i have a fresh cam and lifters from the 351m that i will use and i will measure for new rods when i put new heads on.
too bad the rods on the m are too long
they are new too.
i am flipping coin on new cam bearings
will see after i pull the old cam.
if i can will do bottom end main bearings and new oil pump,if i can find the time ,or do it the following weekend.
will take the M block and prep for block fill and it has a good bottom end
with trw forged pistons .030 over,reconditioned rods and crank turned .010,.010.
i think the oz heads will get a once over and some loving
and be used on the m for bracket fun
Last edited by alfonsothefons on August 7th, 2012, 3:09 am, edited 1 time in total.
be big be a builder
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Joined: December 16th, 2003, 1:59 am

August 7th, 2012, 6:37 am #6

a bell for the M to C4 can't be as much as you're gonna spend going through the motor... but you'll need to work on the engine mounts too

is it a 351C or 302C ?

there'll be phantoms, there'll be fires on the road... and the white man dancing
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Joined: December 14th, 2011, 2:03 pm

August 7th, 2012, 10:33 am #7

my biggest investment will be new push rods and bearings and lots of personal labor.

i ran the tape and the cost of new bell housing or the changeover to a built c-6
flexplate, balancer ,mounts ,cut a driveshaft.
both over 500+
i have plenty of brand new available parts in the m to pirate and of course did i mention ,the ute is the only car i own, so the tear down and rebuild is a one long day project till it runs
be big be a builder
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Joined: March 9th, 2004, 3:37 pm

August 7th, 2012, 5:16 pm #8

i am a newbie with internal repairs
but i have a right bank tick and i pulled valve cover and and the rocker arms are all torqued to spec but the #3 intake rockers has slop to it, not a lot but a difference from the rest.
,also the intake on two there is no roll on the pushrod as far as rolling it with fingers compared to rest.
any thoughts
bad lifter on #3 ?
bent rod on #2 ?
Before you start tearing this engine down, I would try swapping the loose rocker arm assembly and pushrod with a set from a "good" intake valve. Make sure the problem doesn't follow the rocker or pushrod.
Good luck,
James P.
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Joined: December 14th, 2011, 2:03 pm

August 7th, 2012, 11:02 pm #9

will try it, i believe i traced problem to lifter bleed off,the car lives on a steep driveway.and i think the pitch helps bleed lifters and start dry ,going to park level for a couple of days and see what happens.
be big be a builder
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Joined: December 14th, 2011, 2:03 pm

August 13th, 2012, 4:40 pm #10

had grand daughter over weekend,not a bad thing, so i had minimal time to deal with engine but i did find that rod was ok ,but play with rocker so ,i am definitely pulling intake and replacing cam and lifters.
i have a 2 week old timing set in front
so the dismantling will be easy ,i had a practice run.might pull oz heads while i am in the mood and replace with 2v D1A2 400m heads i have laying around which are brand new rebuild, bigger chamber but ok till i freshen up the oz heads.that will buy me a head start on the rebuild of oz engine.
all parts mentioned are things i have already so no cash outlay for now.
i am hoping to park car soon and totally go over drive train. so until then , a mild top end revamp ,then some real performance build over winter.
be big be a builder
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