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derekredmond
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Joined: June 25th, 2008, 2:03 pm

April 30th, 2018, 2:27 am #21

Great work and great documentation Rus! Thanks!

Derek

Derek Redmond
Kingston, Canada
1959 CJ-3B
http://CJ3B.info/About.html
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Rus Curtis
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Joined: October 16th, 2008, 5:17 am

August 31st, 2018, 2:28 am #22

My next project is the parking lights.  It seems that originally they were a one wire, one filament bulb:
 

 
But the Parts Manual (PM) also shows in GROUP 35-59 - DIRECTIONAL SIGNAL LIGHTS, there was an available accessory to add turn signals.
 
My jeep came with dual wire parking lights.  I don't know if they were the listed optional upgraded turn signal lights or something a Previous Owner (PO) had swapped in from another jeep model at some point. 
 
What I do know is the housing looks similar (as best I can tell from the illustration quality) and from the existing wires, I note one is cloth covered and the other vinyl covered but the colors match the wires provided from Vintage Wiring of Maine (VWM).
 

 
When I studied my new wires from VWM, they were supplied without the internal parts for the housing.  They did come with a rubber outer sleeve to match the ones my lights already had. 
 

 
Researching what to do, I found an article on the 3B Page, by Don Norris, http://cj3b.info/Tech/ParkingLights.html .  I noted my housings looked very similar to his as well.  I knew exactly what he was doing and got my hacksaw out in preparation to alter my housings - at this point, I saw no way of further disassembly.  I still needed to go find the aftermarket sockets but had just about made up my mind on this course - it was straight forward and simple.
 
Then I thought, if I'm going to cut the back of this socket off, I'd like to know how it was put together.  After pulling the wires out, I got an awl out and started digging at the rubber tube that was inserted into the back of the socket.  I then used a sharp pair of needle nose pliers.  All I managed to do was rip off the tube.  It was still firmly attached down in what appeared to be a slot. 
 
Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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Rus Curtis
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Joined: October 16th, 2008, 5:17 am

August 31st, 2018, 2:41 am #23

No turning back at this point.  Not wanting to give up, I switched back to the awl and attempted to dig out the remaining strip of rubber tube.  I even smacked it with a hammer to dig into the remains (in hopes of dislodging that rubber tube) and an inner ring popped out of the housing with the remains of that rubber tube still attached.  
 

 
I looked at the other housing and had one of those "Aha!" moments.
 
Once I popped the other retainer out and test fit the new rubber tubes,
 

 

 
including sliding the new wires in for a visual, I now felt comfortable with attempting a rebuild of these lights (not my original plan). 
 
I contacted VWM and asked for a handful of the contact points needed to rebuild these lights (I didn't even know what to call these contacts but referenced, from what they sent me, the dash light and Tell Tale light harnesses had them).  I did have to explain a bit what I was doing and we did identify what they were.  They also suggested using a special crimping tool designed for these but after pricing one online, I chose to just solder them on.
 
Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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Rus Curtis
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Joined: October 16th, 2008, 5:17 am

August 31st, 2018, 2:44 am #24

Turning to the housings, I had one that showed some rust and pitting. 
 

 

 
I chose to fix that with JB Weld.  After wire wheel and sand paper prep, I added paint to simulate the plating.
 
Once dried, I again fit the inner plug and rubber tube into the housing but this time, I used a socket and hammer to drive it into place.
 

 
Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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Rus Curtis
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Joined: October 16th, 2008, 5:17 am

August 31st, 2018, 2:45 am #25

I inserted the wires, slipped on the internal parts and soldered the contact points to the end of the wires.
 

 
Overall, I like the results. 
 
Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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zambonimb
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Joined: January 28th, 2009, 8:51 pm

August 31st, 2018, 4:07 am #26

Nice work, Russ! Your build is coming along nicely.
1957 CJ3B under construction!
1942 MB also under construction
1978 Jeep Cherokee 2 door future project

Brantford, Ontario, Canada
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Rus Curtis
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Joined: October 16th, 2008, 5:17 am

September 16th, 2018, 11:40 pm #27

Many years ago, I tore the engine apart to rebuild it to a fresh start.  I chose this not because the engine didn't run before I stored it, but because the entire jeep was getting a full rebuild and I wanted to "reset" the engine as well.  This turned out to be a good idea.
 
I had a flywheel bolt back out due to nut failure (this is another story) at some point when I was still driving it around.  That bolt spent the rest of its life banging around between the back of the block and the crankcase flange.  When I disassembled the engine, I could see there was a lot of damage; hairline cracks and chips in the block around but outboard of the rear seal.  I got a shop to weld/grind that damage and feel it will hold - time will tell.
 
Moving forward on that rebuild, I sent the block/head in to have it prepped for rebuild.  Although I anticipated the head would get resurfaced, I didn't discuss decking and assumed it wouldn't be done.  It was.  When I picked up my block, I noticed the engine serial number was removed.  I didn't address it at the moment but reassembled the engine, mounted it on the frame and forgot about it.
 
Fast forward to this year.  Since I'm not immune to having senior moments where I second guess myself, a concern popped into my head where I couldn't remember if I'd washed the debris out of the cylinders from the honing process.  Once I had removed the head and pistons, did a quick wash to verify (it was done) - I began to look at that flat empty boss at the front of the block since the head was out of the way.  I re-engaged my research and found a reference to punches from a company that will sell custom sets (I needed a numbers set and the letter, "J"). 
 
http://www.columbiamt.com/store/Machine ... mps31.html
 
I then reviewed several tutorials on metal punching or stamping.  The punches arrived and I marked the boss and tried the first digit.
 
After the first attempt, I noticed it wasn't deep enough.  Following the video guidance on how to "re-punch" a character I got a much better result. 
 

 
I finished the serial number and reattached the head and valve cover.
 

 
Since the re-stamping process chipped and removed the paint in a jagged way, I eventually came back to this to add paint across the completed serial number.  This project took a long time but my engine finally has its "identity" back!
 
Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B "Green Gruntt"
Bantam T3-C
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zambonimb
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Joined: January 28th, 2009, 8:51 pm

September 17th, 2018, 12:46 am #28

Nice! Looks original.
1957 CJ3B under construction!
1942 MB also under construction
1978 Jeep Cherokee 2 door future project

Brantford, Ontario, Canada
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