Paul and All:
I am glad you got my little joke...finally. I am thinking of putting in just one BIG hole in the transome and running the two exhausts through it via a "Y" connector just before the outlet. Cheaper that way. (Just checking to see if you are paying attention.)
We will cut the holes for the 4 inch stainless steel outlets a little later and once we see how the engine is going to fit. Right now, the mechanic is busy with customers that are money makers for him and and not with me. I go down to the shop everyday and put parts on the motor as they come in by truck. I am now getting ready to join the motor and trans. But today, I ran into a problem with the starboard transmission motor mount. It bumps into a nut or bolt head that connects the tranny housing to the pump housing. No problem with the port side. Very strange. Looking close at the mount, I can see a corner is beveled off so that it would just clear the nut, but it would not fit on the starboard side, but on the port side. Maybe I have two port side motor mounts, but I don't think so. I have a couple of newer mounts and will try them, but have to take 'em off, clean them, paint them, etc.
I also found that I could not put the starter assymbly in, using this motor mount. Clearly, I have the wrong one for this tranny. I must have old paragon mounts, instead of the W/B tranny. That's about all I can figure. Anyway I am not paying for my time and every thing I can save in labor costs, I can apply to the bet! Ha, still checking here.
I am pretty sure, the 4 inch holes will encompass the existing holes, though I don't know if they will be to the side or top or somewhere in between. Part of the wait is to see what risers will materialize between now and then. The mechanic is pushing me to get a certain kind, I kind of want to use what I have. Common sense and prudence willl hopefully win out. A lot depends on how the engine will sit and what mounts we end up with.
Have you estimated how your rig will set in on the bed logs? I suspect at this point, I may have to put a 3 to 4 inch tall wood (white oak) spacer under the engine set of motor mounts to make it line up correctly.
When I changed out the 427s on Summer Palace for the 454s, I had to add two inches up front, but then the angles were different.
It would help if I could quit screwing up things. Here's a photo of my Sherwood, the first one. Talk about siezed up... the bronze gave out first and it happened with a bang. Luckily I was already scared and standing back. I had already got the bearing out, but this other assymbly would not budge. How much pressure you ask??? About 4,000 when she split. Then new one is painted and on the engine. Naturally, I had 3 spares, all for 427s. Whew.
Yes, I am worrying this one pretty good but will have it down pat pretty soon.