[WIP] The HushPuppy - Full Auto Bullpup Demolisher

Show off all of your hard work here.
NscrupulousModefiler
Junior Member
Joined: 18 Jul 2016, 08:38

25 Sep 2017, 08:57 #51

DevilZ' Nerfworks wrote: I'm absolutely going to put one of these in my next stampede so I don't have to go fishing for wires ever again ^^
Edit: banggood carries the same parts for a similar if not cheaper price with free shipping
Cheers for the heads-up 🙂 I'd actually gotten a couple of those exact fittings through AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-New ... 0.0.g3OfHC

I seriously considered permanently attaching the Artifact flywheel-cage's male XT60 using one of these with some longer screws, but it would have made the cage less able to be dropped into another build later down the track. They'll definitely come in handy somewhere though!



**UPDATE** YOUTUBE VIDEO: It Lives!!

First proof-of concept firing demo.  3 x E-flite Blade FK180-3240's, dodgy used Elite darts, battery at about 1/2 charge (2 x Samsung INR18650-25R's @7.6v), wiring toggled to live centre. Nice responsive triggers, easy single-shots and flywheels run ohhhh, soooooooo smoooooooth:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnO1G81z3LE

Will post pix and a diagram of wiring soon.
Last edited by NscrupulousModefiler on 25 Sep 2017, 19:33, edited 1 time in total.
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OldNoob
Foam Data Collector
Joined: 07 May 2013, 14:05

25 Sep 2017, 12:04 #52

Well done, that's working really well. 
Big_Poppa_Nerf:15158 wrote: Boff whats the damage? I have spent over 3 times my Nerf budget this month already. Part of me is trying to be a responsible parent/husband/house owner. The other half is just says 'Ahhhh, Screw it!'.
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NscrupulousModefiler
Junior Member
Joined: 18 Jul 2016, 08:38

26 Sep 2017, 10:29 #53

OldNoob wrote: Well done, that's working... 
Cheers! I'm actually more relieved than anything 😰 Great to finally see what the difference is in practice between live and dead-centre wiring (my only other full-auto build is a MTB-style 2-switch job)... That the new cycle-control switch set-up works at all is way more good luck than good planning. I was really worried I'd have to tweak the switch-positioning to hell and back to get it to behave but as installed it's been doing great off anything from a full 8.2v charge down. Might be twitchier with different motors/batteries but there's still wriggle-room to fettle the dwell if necessary - and the system as a whole will make shoe-horning a modular RS pusher-box into future builds pretty straight-forward.

Most immediately obvious thing now though is the dire need for a dart guide. The throw of the RS pusher arm is good (ie: it doesn't need an extension to consistently feed darts to the wheels - even short-arsed Zuru X-shotties), but old worn and bendy Elites do NOT play well with the aggressive 45˚ bevel on the Artifact Red cage (darts present to the entrance waaay too high and jam without much provocation). Should have listened to that little voice before I put the flywheels on...
Greetings, Nerflings - We come in peace. Shoot to Thrill!
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OldNoob
Foam Data Collector
Joined: 07 May 2013, 14:05

26 Sep 2017, 13:29 #54

I just use better darts. Never needed a dart guide with red cage and Hooligan wheels, over the course of BoB where it got pretty hot and darts were flying thick and fast I had zero feed failures.
Big_Poppa_Nerf:15158 wrote: Boff whats the damage? I have spent over 3 times my Nerf budget this month already. Part of me is trying to be a responsible parent/husband/house owner. The other half is just says 'Ahhhh, Screw it!'.
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NscrupulousModefiler
Junior Member
Joined: 18 Jul 2016, 08:38

12 Oct 2017, 09:05 #55

Again, sensible advice. Better darts on the way! I just couldn't resist finess-ing the Red cage a bit though... more on that later, cause it's time now for the wiring update (prepare to be bombarded with images!)


**UPDATE**: 2S wiring loom





Note: Green wire in diagram is brown in real life. All wiring is nominally 16AWG, but I've found there's 16AWG, 16AWG and 16AWG... Basically the pricey stuff is better in that there are more and finer strands and is therefore capable of transporting more current. It's also decidedly fat. Flexibility varies... mostly I've used silicon-clad but when I ran out (a lot more wire than expected goes into a three-switch full-auto bullpup...) I had to reach for the automotive stuff while waiting for the new silicon-clad wire to arrive (the new stuff fell somewhere between as far as quality and flex, but was very reasonably priced). So, the blue and brown wires to the pusher-control switch are a bit stiff but she's firing fine.

It took a while, but I've routed the 2S loom so it's completely removable from the shell without having to separate the inner and out shells. The 3v loom is getting re-wired to change the switch operation around and will have that capability added then (and everything will attach only to the outer shell). This'll mean I can detach everything for gluing up and painting.


Right-hand-side shell-half. All 2S wiring laid on this side. // Left-hand-side shell half. All 3v wiring laid on this side with the exception of the two wires to the tac-torch (connected by a JST in LHS switch-bay) // 2S volt-meter attached by JST connector in RHS wiring-bay.
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Battery Tray Wiring:

Original layout for the battery-box internals // Original tray is slightly different from the preferred one in the centre image (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs-lo ... 0.0.hRqwdn)... On this tray the contacts slide into the tray from the top rather than the bottom - this will make adding larger and more conductive contacts easier. // In the meantime, the current battery tray has been inverted from original plan to better accommodate voltmeter and wiring.
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Proposed voltmeter placement // marked out for cutting // channel cut
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Voltmeter in position // marking out holes for push-switch and LED's // countersinking holes
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Wiring up voltmeter // Assembled box. Momentary push-switch protected in recess // Voltmeter activated showing reading at 7.6v (switches off after 2 seconds).
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Flywheel Cage Wiring:

Artifact Red cage wired to XT60 connector. The wiring is run pretty damn close to the 180-sized motors to minimise the height everything projects out from the shell and ensure nothing touches the underside of the Firestrike motor-covers. Next time I'll leave those as tall as possible to have a bit more room here...
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Pusher-Box Wiring:

LHS pusher-box wiring  // RHS pusher-box wiring. If I added connectors on these two wires here I could easily drop in a different motor without soldering // Pusher-box positioned in shell with XT30's connected.
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Pusher-box wiring routing. The live/dead switch and the pusher fuse were swapped along the way which is why their connections look odd.
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Main wiring to switch-gear:

Wiring to fire-control switch-gear and routing through Stampede thumb-hole to pusher box. The mag-well throat-piece has a small notch removed at the rear to allow the 4 wires to sit under it, holding them in place. // Close-up of fire-control switch wiring. This layout isn't as sensible as it could have been as I changed tack half-way through. I'll rationalise it at some point now I know how it best needs to run. // Wiring out from battery-box (with 20AWG splitting off to voltmeter up behind the barrel) and down to FC switches in grip then back up to flywheel cage.
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2S wiring loom installed:
Greetings, Nerflings - We come in peace. Shoot to Thrill!
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