pwt32
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April 21st, 2018, 11:24 am #886

It was painfully slow and carried a small bomb load. It was the most modern scout/recon plane in the Polish Air Force in 1939. 

I am almost done with my 3rd Samurai. All the major areas have been base coated, washed and highlighted. I painted the eyes by applying a black line and 2 white dots on either end. It actually came out better than I thought. The green piping was tough to do. I touched that up several times and my paint kept hardening. I am pretty pleased with how this guy has turned out. Looks like I will have at least 2 Samurai to enter int he Miniature Figure contest held locally in May.  




I applied the Japanese lettering to the white robe highlights. After that I applied black to the center and dark pink on the outside. I applied the crackling paint like I did for the other figures but in a larger area. Unfortunately it pulled the black undercoat and you can see the Orange plastic underneath. Ugh!! I will have to try to hide that with some rocks and plants.

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April 21st, 2018, 3:28 pm #887

Work on my P-23 Karas has been progressing through the week. 

I masked off the cockpit and sprayed the Hataka Silver paint that came with my painting set. This was my first experience painting with Hataka paints. The bottle says "air brush ready", so I sprayed directly without adding any thinner. The paint was extremely thin and transparent. I built up a few layers to get the silver on the lines, but I felt it was so thin it would get under the masking. Indeed, as you will see in later photos some of the canopy masking started to lift suggesting just that. 



I thought the coverage issue with the silver might have been related to no primer. Of course I could not paint the primer as my "inside color", but I thought it would be best to prime the aircraft for the exterior colors. I used Tamiya primer.



The next day I applied the Polish Blue-Gray underside color. I went straight from the bottle but in this case it was too thick. With my airbrush more than 1/2 open I sprayed the paint but was really just laying down splotches of paint. I mixed in some thinner in desperation, no measurement, just squirted it in. This got the paint flowing as expected, but made it too thin I think. It was hard to get coverage and was easy to pool the paint. In the photo you can see where the paint has pooled up somewhat.



Another annoying thing is the Hataka thinner keeps bubbling up and leaving a film behind when I clean with it,



So I let it go and dry. When I came back 2 hours later the coat looked even. There is a slight orange peel affect, but I blame that on the initial paint that was too thick.



A close inspection showed that the primer grey is showing in spots. Looking at the tail wings, You can see inside the panels where the paint pooled around the raised panel lines. Not really visible in the photo is a spot where coverage was too thin and did not coat well (bottom arrow).



After drying for 24 hours, I painted the top coat. I taped off the underside. I used a low tack painters tape. As you can see plenty of tape on the bottom. This includes some sharp demarcation lines around the main wings. Polish aircraft fuselages where painted the top color and only the wings were blue.




I mixed the paints over several days quite vigorously. I even left them upside down to try to get the pigment off the bottom. It mostly worked, but as you can see the groove in the bottom is a different shade than the flat area meaning all the pigment did not mix even with an agitator in the bottle.



This paint set provides 2 shades of Polish Khaki, light and dark. It is suggested the Polish recon & bomber aircraft were painted a darker khaki than fighters. I don't believe that was true. Instead I used the dark khaki as a base coat and will apply the lighter shade over the dark leaving some visible as weathering. I applied some thinner to the paint and once again it was too thin and translucent. Basically like squirting dirty water on the plane. I added more paint to the cup to thicken it, which was too much. A little more thinner, too squirty again. A bit more paint. Finally it seemed to spray OK. For coverage I had to coat the model 3 times. I am  used to enamel doing a single coat. Eventually I got the model covered but it seemed more like a wrestling match than a paint job. I personally don't feel the color would be right as a final coat on Polish aircraft. The colors are always shown in drawings much lighter.



My trials with the paint - 2) Straight out of the bottle - barely covers. 1) More paint after the more thinner. Better coverage but still translucent. - added more paint. 3) The paint spattered like this a lot on the model.



You would think that the translucent nature of this paint would be good for some counter shading, but again coverage was hard. Normally my single action airbrush is barely open to do this work, but now the paint would dry almost instantly and clog the brush. Eventually I was open about 1/3 (basically a fire hose when I do enamels) to get even some coverage on the panels. I patiently did every panel twice to get coverage. Then I did back and forth swipes in the direction of the airflow to oevercoat all the wings. I eventually ended up with this, with some dark coat visible around panel lines but the core in the lighter tone.



The tape test was a success. Sharp lines and no peeled paint. That included around the landing gear and fuselage.



I applied a coat of Future floor polish as a gloss coat. This worked well and did not pool on the paint. I used my Techmod (Polish company) decals to mark my Karas in a pre-war 1938 paint scheme.




Before you ask - I had my glasses on when I applied the top wing markings. Polish aircraft had the top markings offset so you could not line up and shoot between the markings and hit the cockpit. I don't know if that ever worked, but it is a signature feature of Polish WWII aircraft. 

I will apply some panel line wash later today and seal. I should be able to get a flat coat on tomorrow AM and remove the masking.I am travelling next week so I don't want to leave the masking on. This build will have to be finished next weekend.
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pwt32
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April 25th, 2018, 10:33 am #888

Before leaving on my current business trip I was able to finish off my 3rd Samurai. I was able to fix some of the base issues with some concealment. I applied some train ballast rocks over the two largest areas showing orange, and then used some grass tufts to hide any reaming areas and blend the base. I used a Micron pen to write the Japanese text on the robe following the box top guide. The yari was painted separately and added last. After I broke the sword on my last Samurai I was extra careful during painting. This one will definitely be my primary entry for Historical Figure at the Miniature Figure Collectors of America Show next month.



I am ready to walk back some of my comments on the Hataka paints. I put a second coat of gloss to seal the decals and added some panel line wash. I then applied a flat coat. After I removed the mask I can say I am really pleased with how the colors look. For all the trouble applying, it is a nice final coat and the colors do seem inline with Polish Khaki. With the mask removed from the canopy I am glad I spent the extra time in the cockpit.



I just have to add the detail parts - Guns, Pitots, exhausts - to finish off this build. Hopefully this is just a few hours of work so I can clear my work bench for the upcoming group builds..
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Arpie
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April 26th, 2018, 12:22 pm #889

The paint job on the Karas is fantastic despite the trouble you had with the paint.  Interesting note about the Polish markings on the top of the wings I'm surprised more air forces didn't think of it.
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April 29th, 2018, 8:57 pm #890

Thanks Arpie - I am pleased with the result.

It was quick work to finish off this build this weekend. I painted most of the remaining detail parts on the sprue. This included the exhausts, small bits on the fuselage sides, guns and pitots.



A smaller cockpit surrounding the lower gun was painted by hand as the 1-2mm size windows were much too small to mask. It was quick work putting the detail parts on. The hardest was the exhausts as they kept twisting and the the 2 brackets needed to line up on two plates on the fuselage.I had painted the prop blades with my P-47 earlier and the spinner was painted with the body so that was done and added last. I did paint the exhaust collector ring with brass paint from citadel and then applied two rust brown washes which toned down the brightness and gave it a dingy look. Happy with the result.


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April 29th, 2018, 9:29 pm #891

I wanted to clear the last Samurai warrior off my bench before I started some of my GB's. This last guy is shooting a bow and arrow. I started with some base painting and left his pull arm off so I could paint the clothes unobstructed.



When he was mostly done I added the bow and arrow. The kit supplies a Japanese quill which required a lot of string to make work. It is of course all in Japanese so I decided to leave it off. The quill holds the arrows point down so only one arrow had a point and it was broken! One of the arrows had some flash and I managed to turn that into a "point". However, it just does not look right. His arm does not hold the bow like the box top. It is straight out and more like holding a pistol. He should have his pointer finger and thumb cradling the arrow. Instead he is just gripping the box. I added the arrow like the picture in the instructions. Also, the arrow has two feathers, not 3. But that's not the worse of it. 



The way he is holding the bow, I cannot add the bow string now and it would be impossible to actually have the bow in this position with the string drawn. I will just finish this off to complete the set, but a bit disappointed by this last guy. I would have needed to re-position the arm to make this work properly....or I guess I could have made it look like he just fired...but then I would have had to figure out the quill...ugh. 



I just need to finish painting the base and this one will be done. 
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Ratch
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April 30th, 2018, 12:35 pm #892

That's a disappointing pose with the archer 🙁
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April 30th, 2018, 5:47 pm #893

Yes - his arm needs to be more to his right to align. Based on that I am glad I did not try to rig up the strange quiver of bows. I finished off the build in the same way as the other ones, basing with some crackled dirt, grass tufts and ballast. 



The box art shows a flower design in black on his pants. I added that with a Micron pen and finished off the final figure in the set. 

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wingnutmike
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May 1st, 2018, 7:04 am #894

Arpie wrote: The paint job on the Karas is fantastic despite the trouble you had with the paint.  Interesting note about the Polish markings on the top of the wings I'm surprised more air forces didn't think of it.
I think I've made the same mistake, with all my models, (Polish), great looking "Karras".
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August 16th, 2018, 11:39 am #895

I have been away this summer with work, travel, Holidays etc... but need to put together a few builds for upcoming shows int he fall. I thought I would warm up with a quick build.



This is an older Hasegawa kit but has a small number of parts and a fairly simple paint job.



The decals are old an unusable and the cockpit is marred with some bubbles. No big deal as this is just a "practice" build.



Work starts with the internal pieces and the cockpit, pilot and engine are painted with a mix of Citadel and model air paints and washes.



Main pieces went together well but will require some filler.



Pilot and cockpit went in after gluing and sanding the fuselage



Large gaps in the wing roots required taped off filler to minimize panel damage.



However it was easily sorted out



Here is everything sanded, cleaned and mounted for painting. Canopy masked and added.



Before I left for a short trip on Monday I painted the leading edge yellow and the cockpit internal framing. Next up will be the IJN Grey and Green camo.

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August 16th, 2018, 11:47 am #896

This summer I spent a week on Cape Code in Massachusetts. We were at a beach house just a few blocks from the Ocean. In between family time I took my Citadel paints and Warhammer figures and was able to paint and build two of them. I did not have time to do the base of the second one, but still pleased with how they came out. There is a large Sci-fi model contest and show here in the US called Wonderfest. This year they announced a new Category called Gaming Figures which I am pleased to hear and hope to take some of my figures to the next show. I had a 3 pack of Plague Marines (Evil creatures covered in boils and pestilence hating all that is good in the universe) and the first two are complete. It will be easier to base the second one when I finish the 3rd figure. Our club is having a group build day at a local hobby shop next month so I will paint the 3rd figure then.   


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August 18th, 2018, 12:07 pm #897

Good progress on my "George" so far. Yesterday the bottom IJN Grey went on.after masking off the yellow wing tips



After that the IJN Green went on after masking the fuselage per instructions



However, I am not sure who is running the quality Control department in this factory but somehow the yellow leading edge got masked differently on both wings. The left side is actually correct, it should be shorter. The quickest fix is to just expand the correct side so I only have to spray 1 color.



The fix is in progress...



...and looks OK.I also sprayed the prop as well. Unlike allied aircraft, Japanese aircraft had a yellow line below the tip. I will mask this off when I spray the blades primer brown.



Decals are on as well after a coat of gloss.



I did have some issues. The first fuselage marking would not settle into the seams. I applied a generous coat of Micro-sol. However,this just "bounced off" the decal and went to the edges where it promptly fogged the gloss coat. I resorted to gently running a toothpick in the seems which worked until I pulled off part of the white surround! I did the same with the other insignia but with a gentle touch and did not have the same problems. I used a mix of generic and spares for the kit as the kit decals were old and yellowed.

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August 19th, 2018, 12:47 pm #898

I spent the rest of my day yesterday correcting my decal issues, applying a seal coat of gloss (which fixed the fogging), applying a panel line wash and finally I put a flat coat on late last night.

This morning I started off by painting the prop. I create a simple jig to align my stripes. I used the pencil mark to guide my tape application and spun the blades into position. quick and easy. 



All of the small bits are fully painted and ready to be installed,



I applied a light wash to all the panel lines and used a pencil to fill in any lines that were too light to see. The pencil also allowed me to further push the decals into the seams and apply some faint panel lines across them. Here is the build with flat coat applied and masking removed from canopy.



Before adding the parts that are easily knocked off, I finished off the weathering. Exhaust staining with a dry brush of black and medium grey. Black staining around guns and ammo chutes.Finally I used my silver Prisma pencil to apply chipping. Heavy at the roots, gun panels and cowling with light chipping in other areas.



My completed prop. The stripes are a bit wide. Probably should be 1/2 the size. At least they line up!



Starting to apply the underside parts. I added the struts and made sure they were aligned. Next up was the wheels. The drop tank went on next. Its hard to see in the photo, but I remembered to add the lower exhaust staining across the landing gear door.



The landing gear doors where a dream to attach. All had positive locating points which forced alignment.



The blue/red wing tip lights are painted and got a gloss coat. I assembled the prop and coated each cockpit panel with gloss to help with the bubbles. As I was searching for decals yesterday I found a vac-form canopy for this plane. Too late to use it though. With the prop attached this build is complete.


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September 3rd, 2018, 11:00 pm #899

Has been tough to get building during the summer but with the kids back in school I am hoping to have more time now. I am planning on building this 1/48 Do-335 for a model contest on Sept 15. Giving myself a deadline and less than 2 weeks to get it done. I am planning on giving it a Luft '46 color scheme so it stands out. The kit is from an old double pack from Monogram. To my knowledge the Do-335 did not tangle with P-47's and likely not Gabby Gabreski's aircraft. I would like  a P-47 in my collection so I will build that at a later date.The kit is pretty old - from 1988 - and has raised panel lines. 



Kit parts - its a big kit. The fuselage has both engines visible as an option so I plan to make them exposed if they look good after painting.




Kit decals are "semi" yellowed. I have some spares I can probably use. I like the yellow 10 so hoping that can be used.



Work started int he cockpit. I used my citadel paints and washed and dry brushed the detail. Late war German cockpits were quite boring - all dark grey. The seat has molded belts but they were soft so I added belts from tinfoil. I like to paint them lifted then bend them to shape with a touch of glue after painting.



Completed cockpit tub with belts painted and high lighted. I added some red and yellow lights for some color. Control stick will go in after the tub is installed.



Fuselage required some persuasion to go together. It was badly warped.



The front gear bay was supposed to be attached to the cockpit tub and slide into place. It was a poor fit so I attached it first. I had to shave down one side of the front to almost no plastic to get it to fit. The other side had a large gap. I used a large piece of flash
glued into place to close the gap. Here it is glued but not trimmed.



The tail wings were not in halves as expected. The bottom slid into a notch leaving the front and rear edges from the top piece. Huge gaps. to simulate the trim tabs on the top of the wings, I added a touch of filler in the middle of the gap on the rear and filled in all around the rest of the wing. I only left the gap where the actual flap should be.



Stop me if you have heard this before - the rear engine intake had a large gap, blah, blah blah. More filler here.



After sanding up the fuselage I decided to glue the main spine. The kit allows you to build a 1 seat or 2 seat version. I would say the part fits poorly and will require some work.



After much fiddling and adding and removing some sprue tabs, the only way I could get a good bond was to wedge the fuselage wider with some sprue.



After that it was much easier to get a good fit.



My intake is also sanded down and ready to be added.

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September 5th, 2018, 11:35 am #900

More progress on the Do-335. My fuselage is now together and the hump is as aligned as I could get it. The rear portion was really out of alignment and had a huge gap. I wedged a piece of plastic card to fill the gap and provide a glue surface. After drying over night I cut and sanded the card down and cleaned up the seams. 



I started painting the engines. I am not adding detail. I just want their to be a hint of engine when the doors are cracked open on the model. After base coating some grey, silver, brown and Grau 02, I applied to heavy washes. After this second wash dries I will use the edge highlighting techniques I use on my Warhammer figures to bring the details forward. 




My tail wings are the best I can get them with the large gaps and weird seam lines. They are ready to be installed.  



Today I will finish off the engines and add the wings. If I am lucky I will get a coat of Grau 02 on the undercarriage, wheel well and doors. 
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