scopes

scopes

Joined: August 29th, 2011, 4:50 pm

February 15th, 2012, 12:00 am #1

Has anyone had any trouble w/their bsa scope? I have a 2x7 bsa pistol scope that seems to have quit working, the ajustmenters will not change any thing, and it seems as if the insides are loose and just flopping around inside, four inch patterns at twenty five FEET, tells me something is amiss. the gun(2300t) should shoot no worse than 3/8s at that distance. all mounts are tight, the problem started about three mo.s ago and has progressively gotten worse until today when it stopped doing anything at all! Dave.
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Joined: March 26th, 2008, 2:38 am

February 15th, 2012, 1:08 am #2

on your gun, if you have them.

I try to scope all my guns with see thru mounts, and keep the iron sights on.

Makes for some ugly looking guns sometimes, but if Im out in the field, and scope goes south, Im not out of the hunting action, well to about 25 30 yds at least. Also works great to have the scope sighted in at long range(35-50 yds) and use the irons for short range work.

ANNNNY way, if you have some irons, throw them on and remove the scope. Shoot at a decent size target for groups just like you would a scoped gun, releasing at the same spot each time.try 15 yds.

If groups are all over, something wrong with gun. If groups are within a quarter or less, scope is shot.

I have ruined a BSA on a spring gun, but would think that there is absolutely no c02 gun out there that can damage a RF riflescope. They are by no means top of the line, but are decent scopes for pumper/pcp/co2 guns, and are hand-over-fist better than sights at distance.

Shoot, the little Daisy/Crosman 4 powers are great to 25-30 yds on guns that have that range limitation anyway.

Try to take'er apart. Sounds like its shot anyway, and if not within warranty its trash. You might find what is rattling, and a broken part, and repair it. I have had pretty good luck taking scopes apart, once I figured what would be a good tool to get that particular model apart. Often the rings are hard to get out, so ya gotta be careful with the glass.

God bless,

Farmer
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Joined: August 29th, 2011, 4:50 pm

February 15th, 2012, 3:31 am #3

That is an excellent idea, I have a laser sight in a coffee can of parts that I know is still good, tomorrow I'll put it on and see what the problem is, scope or gun. as a side note can a barrel be silver soldered into the breech to make it a solid with the breech?? Dave.
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Joined: March 26th, 2008, 2:38 am

February 15th, 2012, 6:23 pm #4

Why?

If you want a more solid mount, add a screw, or 2. Go with an epoxy might work,also. Something that you could reverse with heat.

Maybe some jb weld, but again, thats too permanant for me.

Good luck with the scope.

God bless,

Farmer
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Joined: August 29th, 2011, 4:50 pm

February 15th, 2012, 11:24 pm #5

Farmer, took the gun to the shop today, looked things over and took the laser back off. I also took the handles off and chucked it up in the vise. still sprayed shots every where! could not find anything wrong with the scope other than it's just cheap and made wrong. so the next thing to look at was the suppressor, pulled it off and looked down the tube, some of my felt washers were getting "hairy" in the path of the pell inside, shot about forty shots and that seems to have been the culprit. having said and done a lot of work to this gun it seems that the first barrel was a piece of crap, and that the barrel that I bought to replace it is an even bigger piece of crap. but it makes a pellet come out the end of the barrel now, so I guess that will have to do. thanks for the input on this gun. Dave.
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Joined: March 26th, 2008, 2:38 am

February 16th, 2012, 2:01 am #6

from other experience but gotta say, the 2300 is supposed to be darn accurate. I have read many reviews of these, this is the first comment Ive heard on it not being so.

can you see the bbl moving, or get it to shift around? How about your grip, triggers not causing this is it?

YOu can always recrown, not hard to do.

Sorry that its being difficult.

God bless,

Farmer
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Joined: August 29th, 2011, 4:50 pm

February 16th, 2012, 4:26 am #7

Farmer, the gun never has been very consistent, it's about like this afternoon. at 25ft after I took the suppresser off the gun would put a shot in. then would put three more in a row in a tiny little spot about a 1/4 of an inch c to c a inch to the right and down a half, then no. five would be right some more and down another half. I have on a piece of paper w/ four groups in a row that look like this!! all of the groups that I shot today were shot out of a vise bolted to a two hundred pound table. I am shooting cros. priemiers, hollow point and round nose, it doesn't seem to make a lot of difference between the two. I am going to have to get a better scope as this one is not a good one. it does not seem as though any effort was expended on the parrellex on the scope. which makes it hard to keep consistent shot to shot. I have a m-8 12x leopold I may tryon it to just check and see how much is the scope. I'll try again tomorrow. Dave.
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Joined: March 26th, 2008, 2:38 am

February 16th, 2012, 3:38 pm #8

Gun is doing these sprayed groups, right?

But they seem to consistant in the way they are spraying.

this is a c02 or pcp setup? Liquid c02 not getting into the valve is it? I would start checking everything, and would begin with a stripdown, if you can handle it. You are saying it will do 2-3 stacked, and then 4 and five are off and to the left/right.

Chrony it. If nothing is moving around, you should see a velocity difference on the chrony.
Crosmans from a tin? IF so, get a Mic out, and sort by 1000ths. I have had Crosmans come out from .215 to .219 from the tins. BIG difference out of a barrel that might prefer a little larger of a pellet....
Nothing is clipping them when they are going into the breech area?

I would dismantle and make sure everything is clean. Check seals. Check seats. Make sure something isnt happening weird every 4-5 shots, like a valve stem/seal canted and rotating. while your at it polish it all, striker, spring ends, clean the tube, etc.....

Lap the bore while off, with some valve lapping compound, and touch the crown up. Reassemble, making sure you have a good transfer port seal.
Dont put the muzzle break back on yet...

Sorry I can't offer more than basic troubleshooting, but sometimes when somebody mentions something, you say "oh man, I forgot to check it"

Good luck and hopefully someone else will chime in and help.

God bless,

Farmer


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Joined: August 29th, 2011, 4:50 pm

February 16th, 2012, 11:51 pm #9

Farmer, I have had this gun apart about twenty times so as soon as the powerlette runs out it'll come down again. the grouping baffles me, all I can figure is that something is moving, but if there is as much difference in pellet sizes as you say(I'll check) that could be the whole thing. the transfer port is stock unmolested and is sealed good. I did however take the little round brass sleeve out of the valve, but I can't see that having too much to do with it. I reworked the trigger by setting the trigger in ball bearings and the sear in a needle bearing, it is smooth and consistent. I have not polished any other parts. when I tear down next I'll get the muzzle recrowned. this is a rejected barrel from the assemmbly line I'm sure, the front sight flat is at least an sixteenth off center so there was no way that was going on a gun on the line! drop it in the parts bin and sell it to some poor sucker (me in this case). I have a jar of bore polishing paste so that can and will happen. think polishing the hammer will help? I'll probably do some anyway. things moving was the reason I thought about silver soldering the barrel in, after thinking it over, I'll buy a lowalth 14" and solder that in before I solder a stock barrel in. well I'll try again, thanks for the input, the pells being off hadn't even crossed my mine. thanks again, Dave.
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