P-rod cheek rest

P-rod cheek rest

Joined: February 24th, 2006, 12:19 am

May 12th, 2012, 5:35 pm #1

I have seen that some people on here have made cheek rests for their P-rod stocks with a piece of 3/4 in square doweling, some aluminum spacers, and some screws. I am thinking of doing the same thing, but I have a question or two first. What size screws are you guys using? Are you putting inserts in the stock, or do you just drill straight through? Is the stock hollow, and if so, is there a chance of me doing any kind of damage to the stock by drilling?
Thanks in advance,
Chris
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Joined: November 17th, 2006, 3:51 am

May 12th, 2012, 7:57 pm #2

Shaped wooden 7/8ths inch wooden dowel. Sanded, filled, painted.
Two lengths of 1/4 Al rod (could use steel..brass..or even wood, but would go with 3/8ths in wood).

Will suppose you have a level and a hand drill. Drill bit to match the diameter of the rods being used.

Triangular cross section top bar of the stock is about 8/10 inch thick (and is solid), so set a stop on the drill bit at ½ inch. Can use tape to mark off ½ inch and be careful not to drill deeper than the tape.

Level the stock's top bar in a vice...level the drill so you are drilling straight down.
Do the same level/drill trick for the dowel.

SPACE of the holes is pretty much up to you. Just trial it and see what looks about right for you. Just be sure the blind holes drilled in the stock and the blind holes drilled into the dowl are THE SAME SPACING.

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The 5mm's dowel ended up at 5 ¾ inches long and the rod spacing is 3 1/4
The 22 P-Rod's dowel ended up at 5 ¼ inches long and the rod spacing is 3'

HOW tall to make the rods? ..1/2 inside the dowl and 1/2 inside the stock...and whatever height you need to get the scope lined up with your eye.

Would trial it here too, using different heights and this trial:

Stand up. CLOSE your eyes. Shoulder the gun. Get comfortable. Open your eyes. If you are looking right down the scope, its the right height.

On the 5mm/2250 the rod turned out to be 1.4 long (giving about .4 of space under the wooden dowel) and on the P-Rod they turned out to be 1.25 long (giving about ¼ inch between the stock and the dowel.

Why different? The riser breech used on the 5mm/2240 sits higher than the lower P-Rod breech. Scope mount height makes a difference as well, so be sure you can live with the scope and mount you have.

Anyway...once you get it so that it's right for you, THEN take it apart and epoxy the rods into their holes.
Last edited by gubb33ps on May 12th, 2012, 7:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: June 15th, 2004, 11:49 pm

May 13th, 2012, 1:00 am #3

I have seen that some people on here have made cheek rests for their P-rod stocks with a piece of 3/4 in square doweling, some aluminum spacers, and some screws. I am thinking of doing the same thing, but I have a question or two first. What size screws are you guys using? Are you putting inserts in the stock, or do you just drill straight through? Is the stock hollow, and if so, is there a chance of me doing any kind of damage to the stock by drilling?
Thanks in advance,
Chris
but I used a piece of old wooded flag pole that was 1-1/4" od. it took it up high enough for me, but like Robert said, you needed adjusted for you, the shooter.
I had to cut it to length, which I had cut my stock down about 1-1/2" , then I rounded of the edges, removed the old stain/varnish and refinised it. I grooved for the V of the stock which it didnt need much , drilled two holes into the stock, matched the holes on the wood , drilled out and used two 6-32 wood screw inserts two 6-32 brass screws and tighten it down. it gives me a little over 1" rise which makes the eye contact to the scope just perfect for my old eyes.


Buster
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one step closer to the ultimate goal
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Joined: February 24th, 2006, 12:19 am

May 13th, 2012, 1:45 am #4

I have seen that some people on here have made cheek rests for their P-rod stocks with a piece of 3/4 in square doweling, some aluminum spacers, and some screws. I am thinking of doing the same thing, but I have a question or two first. What size screws are you guys using? Are you putting inserts in the stock, or do you just drill straight through? Is the stock hollow, and if so, is there a chance of me doing any kind of damage to the stock by drilling?
Thanks in advance,
Chris
I have a couple of ideas I may try out based on what you guys have said.
Chris
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Joined: June 15th, 2004, 11:49 pm

May 13th, 2012, 2:16 am #5

I have seen that some people on here have made cheek rests for their P-rod stocks with a piece of 3/4 in square doweling, some aluminum spacers, and some screws. I am thinking of doing the same thing, but I have a question or two first. What size screws are you guys using? Are you putting inserts in the stock, or do you just drill straight through? Is the stock hollow, and if so, is there a chance of me doing any kind of damage to the stock by drilling?
Thanks in advance,
Chris

this is what he email me :
"it's grooved to fit the V of the stock, maybe you can see from the picture the stock is sitting inside the piece. it's 6 1/8" long about as long as you can appropriately go, 2 1/16" high at the tallest, which gives you a maximum 1 3/8" height rise at the very back. it's 1 3/8" wide "
all you had to do is stain and finish and screw it im place.

Buster
\\\ X ////
one step closer to the ultimate goal
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Joined: February 5th, 2003, 4:29 am

May 13th, 2012, 2:41 pm #6

I have seen that some people on here have made cheek rests for their P-rod stocks with a piece of 3/4 in square doweling, some aluminum spacers, and some screws. I am thinking of doing the same thing, but I have a question or two first. What size screws are you guys using? Are you putting inserts in the stock, or do you just drill straight through? Is the stock hollow, and if so, is there a chance of me doing any kind of damage to the stock by drilling?
Thanks in advance,
Chris
nt
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Joined: May 23rd, 2005, 1:36 am

May 13th, 2012, 8:17 pm #7


this is what he email me :
"it's grooved to fit the V of the stock, maybe you can see from the picture the stock is sitting inside the piece. it's 6 1/8" long about as long as you can appropriately go, 2 1/16" high at the tallest, which gives you a maximum 1 3/8" height rise at the very back. it's 1 3/8" wide "
all you had to do is stain and finish and screw it im place.

Buster
\\\ X ////
one step closer to the ultimate goal
didn't sell. optimum method for installation would be, IMO, jb weld.

small caliber joy
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Joined: May 23rd, 2005, 1:36 am

May 13th, 2012, 8:19 pm #8

nt
looking at it with a tape measure, 3/4".

small caliber joy
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