hmmm, got my 760 , sidelever might not be as easy as i thought

hmmm, got my 760 , sidelever might not be as easy as i thought

Joined: April 28th, 2010, 12:23 am

October 3rd, 2011, 1:06 am #1

there are several apparent issues, basically the whole tube nees to turn and from what i see the collars and lockin mechs will be useless after that leaving me to fabb up new ones , can it be done , sure , pain in the butt , definitely~~~~~!!!!!!!!!!!
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Joined: February 25th, 2011, 10:27 pm

October 3rd, 2011, 2:18 am #2

I guess that's the price you have to pay if you want to go crazy in tricking out your 760... If you have a jig to hold the tube and a drill press it shouldn't be too bad to drill the holes... I'm just wondering if the old holes get in the way of the planned new holes because I've never looked at one with a plan like this.... If everything looks good, you can measure and use marked bands of masking tape as guides before you drill... So you need holes for the front pivot, rear support, trigger sear, and hammer pin... You also need to figure out what you are going to do about a barrel band because I don't know of any that go on allowing for a sideways pump... There may be a clearance problem with the roll pin and barrel also but you probably can use some sort of pin with a curved head on top to contour with the tube... I say, if you're "that good" and up to the task, "Go for it!"
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Joined: February 25th, 2011, 10:27 pm

October 3rd, 2011, 2:29 am #3

I was thinking about the plastic 2289 barrel band... If you were going to make your own and you look at the fake screw on the front off the 2289 band and imagine if it were a real screw, that would be the answer to your problem.... Hint! Hint! LOL
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Joined: April 28th, 2010, 12:23 am

October 3rd, 2011, 2:39 am #4

I guess that's the price you have to pay if you want to go crazy in tricking out your 760... If you have a jig to hold the tube and a drill press it shouldn't be too bad to drill the holes... I'm just wondering if the old holes get in the way of the planned new holes because I've never looked at one with a plan like this.... If everything looks good, you can measure and use marked bands of masking tape as guides before you drill... So you need holes for the front pivot, rear support, trigger sear, and hammer pin... You also need to figure out what you are going to do about a barrel band because I don't know of any that go on allowing for a sideways pump... There may be a clearance problem with the roll pin and barrel also but you probably can use some sort of pin with a curved head on top to contour with the tube... I say, if you're "that good" and up to the task, "Go for it!"
its just my first time lookin at one in6 yrs , since the last one i owned.,. im nostly worried about the valve hammer spring engagement with the rear of the tube .. the barrel band i will make a new one , and the connection point i will redrill or use the old ones, i need to open it up and really learn it like i did my 1088 rifle or the 201 when we did that gun.. it might not be reasonable to sidelever this is what im noticing and dan had warned me about.. we will see my tommorow night when i tear it down.
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Joined: April 28th, 2010, 12:23 am

October 3rd, 2011, 2:43 am #5

I was thinking about the plastic 2289 barrel band... If you were going to make your own and you look at the fake screw on the front off the 2289 band and imagine if it were a real screw, that would be the answer to your problem.... Hint! Hint! LOL
i have all figured out , reason being., is the whole compression tube needs to move with the pump arm because of the pump arm slot , if i relocated the slot , and redid the front pin , wound i be done ?? in other words , seal the old slot (to maintain compression), create a new one , remove nothing at the back end , change nothing else and only change the axis pin for the pump arm
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Joined: February 25th, 2011, 10:27 pm

October 3rd, 2011, 3:00 am #6

its just my first time lookin at one in6 yrs , since the last one i owned.,. im nostly worried about the valve hammer spring engagement with the rear of the tube .. the barrel band i will make a new one , and the connection point i will redrill or use the old ones, i need to open it up and really learn it like i did my 1088 rifle or the 201 when we did that gun.. it might not be reasonable to sidelever this is what im noticing and dan had warned me about.. we will see my tommorow night when i tear it down.
You just have to go into the gun and look... It all depends on the stock holes on the tube and if they interfere with your new plans... Once everything is clear with that, I think it's doable...

Any ideas on your fore grip? I'm thnking "L" when you look at it from the front or something in the fact...

If you pull this off, the 1377 people may be looking to you on how to make their guns "side ways." LOL
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Joined: February 25th, 2011, 10:27 pm

October 3rd, 2011, 3:04 am #7

i have all figured out , reason being., is the whole compression tube needs to move with the pump arm because of the pump arm slot , if i relocated the slot , and redid the front pin , wound i be done ?? in other words , seal the old slot (to maintain compression), create a new one , remove nothing at the back end , change nothing else and only change the axis pin for the pump arm
I was just thinking about how that roll pin in the front sticks out and the clearances with the barrel.. Unless you have another sneaky plan, like how they fasten the pins on those after market barrel bands...
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Joined: April 28th, 2010, 12:23 am

October 3rd, 2011, 3:09 am #8

You just have to go into the gun and look... It all depends on the stock holes on the tube and if they interfere with your new plans... Once everything is clear with that, I think it's doable...

Any ideas on your fore grip? I'm thnking "L" when you look at it from the front or something in the fact...

If you pull this off, the 1377 people may be looking to you on how to make their guns "side ways." LOL
ive pulled off stranger , not that those things were of any advantage.. rotating the whole assembly is key , without interfering with it actually firing, my mindset is either A , it can be done with common sense and careful execution , or B , its simply too involved to be bothered trying.im kinda surprised no one has done it , especially with the reduced cockin effort of a potentially longer arm.
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Joined: February 9th, 2006, 10:35 pm

October 3rd, 2011, 11:22 am #9

Very interesting, a side saddle 760....

What if you rotated the tube so the pump slot is on the side where you want it and then redo the holes and slots inside the receiver. Yes, there would be the old hammer pin slot on the side where you need the hole at the end of the tube, but I wouldn't think that to as big of an issue as closing in the old pump slot and making a new one. Then you could make a new barrel band that has the pump pivot screw in from the bottom.




I plink, therefore I am.
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Joined: April 28th, 2010, 12:23 am

October 3rd, 2011, 2:11 pm #10

single biggest obstacle for what im buiding , otherwise i need to replan a whole new design .. i see what you mean about rotating the whole assembly , if it just causes me to need to make a new band , no issue.. im gonna take a serious look tonight , and most likely make the attempt tonight , its either that or I figure out a mechanical solution to pumping , without having a huge pump arm below the gun.. (which would require fabbing metal , bearing hinges, and me going to the sanatarium )
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