Hammer questions

I am building a 1340 of sorts and want to replace the hammer with the 1377 hammer. I know the stock 2240 sear won't engage the 1377 hammer but I will be making a custom sear to accommodate the hammer and the paintball grip I am going to use. Question is will the smaller hammer open the valve enough for any reasonable performance? I am going to use a 7 inch barrel and I'm going more for a look than performance. Accuracy is more important to me than power so a fairly low velocity is OK. A second question is how much power can I make up (if needed) with the hammer spring.

Another question is what material would you pick for the sear and how hard would you make the sear. I was thinking an old file might work. Would it be hardened all the way through or just the contact points. I never made a sear but have done a few folding knives and tools for work.

Grip is like this:https://sep.yimg.com/ca/I/paintballgate_2268_64060604

However, worse news is that the 1377 hammer is the wrong diameter to work in the (larger) 1740 tube.

Not sure I understand your answer. I realized that the hammers are different diameters which lead me to the need for a custom sear. The detail of accommodating the smaller hammer in the larger tube is being address with a tube inside the 1740 tube of the 1377 hammer diameter. The design is not usual and would not be done but I am trying to make something you don't typically see not really trying to push to performance envelope.

Basically will the hammer open the valve?

More hammer spring rate = more cocking effort as I'm sure you realize. At some point the pin will start to deflect. Enough deflection results in a bent or broken pin so there's a limited amount of relief the stronger spring with a lighter hammer can give you.

If I were doing this, I would simply mock it up and see what the results were using the lighter hammer and whatever springs you have on hand. That should tell you whether a stronger spring is a viable solution or if you need to go w/a lighter internal valve spring or some other combination of tweaks.

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

Oh Yes, good idea in using a lighter valve spring, I didn't think of that.

Thank you for you response.

I am building a 1340 of sorts and want to replace the hammer with the 1377 hammer. I know the stock 2240 sear won't engage the 1377 hammer but I will be making a custom sear to accommodate the hammer and the paintball grip I am going to use. Question is will the smaller hammer open the valve enough for any reasonable performance? I am going to use a 7 inch barrel and I'm going more for a look than performance. Accuracy is more important to me than power so a fairly low velocity is OK. A second question is how much power can I make up (if needed) with the hammer spring.

Another question is what material would you pick for the sear and how hard would you make the sear. I was thinking an old file might work. Would it be hardened all the way through or just the contact points. I never made a sear but have done a few folding knives and tools for work.

Grip is like this:https://sep.yimg.com/ca/I/paintballgate_2268_64060604

Some images of what I am doing.

like that looks very nice

Thanks, ped! n/t

Some images of what I am doing.

I like the look. Industrial- tough and functional. Will some smoothing of the edges come at some point? What type finish are you considering? Sights?

Thanks cobalt,

Yes, there will be some chaffering on the edges and I hope to blend the barrel shroud and main tube together so there is as little seem as possible.

The sights I have not decided on yet but I was thinking maybe a weaver/picatinny rail on the whole length of the top. Most likely open sights, but the right(=cheap) red dot or pistol scope could go on.

The finish I would like to do is DIY anodizing in red. That would really make it pop. Maybe a rail in white or clear anodizing.

I could defiantly see a big red dot in sliver, natural color on top.(too 90's? lol!)