I am building a 1340 of sorts and want to replace the hammer with the 1377 hammer. I know the stock 2240 sear won't engage the 1377 hammer but I will be making a custom sear to accommodate the hammer and the paintball grip I am going to use. Question is will the smaller hammer open the valve enough for any reasonable performance? I am going to use a 7 inch barrel and I'm going more for a look than performance. Accuracy is more important to me than power so a fairly low velocity is OK. A second question is how much power can I make up (if needed) with the hammer spring.
Another question is what material would you pick for the sear and how hard would you make the sear. I was thinking an old file might work. Would it be hardened all the way through or just the contact points. I never made a sear but have done a few folding knives and tools for work.
Grip is like this:https://sep.yimg.com/ca/I/paintballgate_2268_64060604
Hammer questions
10 posts
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- Joined: June 20th, 2007, 1:14 am
Not sure I understand your answer. I realized that the hammers are different diameters which lead me to the need for a custom sear. The detail of accommodating the smaller hammer in the larger tube is being address with a tube inside the 1740 tube of the 1377 hammer diameter. The design is not usual and would not be done but I am trying to make something you don't typically see not really trying to push to performance envelope.
Basically will the hammer open the valve?
Basically will the hammer open the valve?
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- Joined: June 9th, 2016, 11:17 pm
More hammer spring rate = more cocking effort as I'm sure you realize. At some point the pin will start to deflect. Enough deflection results in a bent or broken pin so there's a limited amount of relief the stronger spring with a lighter hammer can give you.
If I were doing this, I would simply mock it up and see what the results were using the lighter hammer and whatever springs you have on hand. That should tell you whether a stronger spring is a viable solution or if you need to go w/a lighter internal valve spring or some other combination of tweaks.
Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
If I were doing this, I would simply mock it up and see what the results were using the lighter hammer and whatever springs you have on hand. That should tell you whether a stronger spring is a viable solution or if you need to go w/a lighter internal valve spring or some other combination of tweaks.
Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
Last edited by cobalt327 on June 20th, 2017, 7:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Joined: June 20th, 2007, 1:14 am
Oh Yes, good idea in using a lighter valve spring, I didn't think of that.
Thank you for you response.
Thank you for you response.
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- Joined: June 20th, 2007, 1:14 am
Some images of what I am doing.I am building a 1340 of sorts and want to replace the hammer with the 1377 hammer. I know the stock 2240 sear won't engage the 1377 hammer but I will be making a custom sear to accommodate the hammer and the paintball grip I am going to use. Question is will the smaller hammer open the valve enough for any reasonable performance? I am going to use a 7 inch barrel and I'm going more for a look than performance. Accuracy is more important to me than power so a fairly low velocity is OK. A second question is how much power can I make up (if needed) with the hammer spring.
Another question is what material would you pick for the sear and how hard would you make the sear. I was thinking an old file might work. Would it be hardened all the way through or just the contact points. I never made a sear but have done a few folding knives and tools for work.
Grip is like this:https://sep.yimg.com/ca/I/paintballgate_2268_64060604



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- Joined: June 20th, 2007, 1:14 am
Thanks, ped! n/t
Last edited by fieldpoint on June 21st, 2017, 10:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Joined: June 20th, 2007, 1:14 am
Thanks cobalt,
Yes, there will be some chaffering on the edges and I hope to blend the barrel shroud and main tube together so there is as little seem as possible.
The sights I have not decided on yet but I was thinking maybe a weaver/picatinny rail on the whole length of the top. Most likely open sights, but the right(=cheap) red dot or pistol scope could go on.
The finish I would like to do is DIY anodizing in red. That would really make it pop. Maybe a rail in white or clear anodizing.
I could defiantly see a big red dot in sliver, natural color on top.(too 90's? lol!)
Yes, there will be some chaffering on the edges and I hope to blend the barrel shroud and main tube together so there is as little seem as possible.
The sights I have not decided on yet but I was thinking maybe a weaver/picatinny rail on the whole length of the top. Most likely open sights, but the right(=cheap) red dot or pistol scope could go on.
The finish I would like to do is DIY anodizing in red. That would really make it pop. Maybe a rail in white or clear anodizing.
I could defiantly see a big red dot in sliver, natural color on top.(too 90's? lol!)
Last edited by fieldpoint on June 22nd, 2017, 4:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.