Benjamin 310

Benjamin 310

Joined: March 19th, 2011, 2:50 am

March 23rd, 2011, 8:10 pm #1

I am re-sealing my father's old Benjamin 310 and I have run into a snag...
I can not get the Outlet Valve Lock Screw (part #340)to budge.

I purchased the tool and the seal kit from Brian & Associates which comes with a copy of the owners manual as well as separate typed instructions for re-sealing the gun. The tool fits cleanly into place, but I cannot get it to move. I'm worried if I put too much force behind it, I will break the solder holding the barrel in place.

I've tried, soaking the area in WD40 and carefully vising the tube to get more leverage, but no luck so far.

Anyone have any recommendations on getting the lock screw to release?

My next thought was to heat that section carefully to see if that would allow the screw to move. It is seated in a lead seal correct?

Any help/info would be appreciated.
Thanks.
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Joined: February 18th, 2008, 6:41 pm

March 23rd, 2011, 11:29 pm #2

Take a look, if you can get to the nut, there shouldn'g be anything impeding it, but check anyway. Putting it in a vise is just to keep stuff from turning, light pressure is fine, make sure you have it clamped just in front of the nut, which is where the compression chamber is soldered in and gives the most tube strength. Heat is ok to a point, just not so much to make the solder run or the lead melt, or melt the seals. Tapping helps sometimes, either on the wrench or on the tube. All else fails, I get something to give me a little more leverage, a longer bar thru the wrench and it won't feel like you are torquing it so much.

Pacific Airgun Expo
email: pae@pacificairgunexpo.com
website: www.pacificairgunexpo.com
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Joined: May 17th, 2004, 4:36 pm

March 24th, 2011, 1:24 am #3

I am re-sealing my father's old Benjamin 310 and I have run into a snag...
I can not get the Outlet Valve Lock Screw (part #340)to budge.

I purchased the tool and the seal kit from Brian & Associates which comes with a copy of the owners manual as well as separate typed instructions for re-sealing the gun. The tool fits cleanly into place, but I cannot get it to move. I'm worried if I put too much force behind it, I will break the solder holding the barrel in place.

I've tried, soaking the area in WD40 and carefully vising the tube to get more leverage, but no luck so far.

Anyone have any recommendations on getting the lock screw to release?

My next thought was to heat that section carefully to see if that would allow the screw to move. It is seated in a lead seal correct?

Any help/info would be appreciated.
Thanks.
There should be a lead seal on the back end of that locking nut. I would put the tool in place and give it a couple good raps with a hammer with the end of the tube on something hard. Then I'd put the tube in a vise with the stock screw lug helping to keep it from twisting and use a good size adjustable wrench on the removal tool shaft to give you more leverage. It might be a combination of old, crusted lubes and some rust in there. Make sure you're turning it the right way - lefty, loosey. You may need/want to chase the threads once you get it apart if they look rusted. I've used an old locking nut that I cut 4 grooves into, perpendicular with the threads. Put it in upside down and chase the threads with that if you need to.

"but I'll be needin' that gun, fer squirrels and such."
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Joined: March 12th, 2006, 8:58 am

March 24th, 2011, 2:41 am #4

I am re-sealing my father's old Benjamin 310 and I have run into a snag...
I can not get the Outlet Valve Lock Screw (part #340)to budge.

I purchased the tool and the seal kit from Brian & Associates which comes with a copy of the owners manual as well as separate typed instructions for re-sealing the gun. The tool fits cleanly into place, but I cannot get it to move. I'm worried if I put too much force behind it, I will break the solder holding the barrel in place.

I've tried, soaking the area in WD40 and carefully vising the tube to get more leverage, but no luck so far.

Anyone have any recommendations on getting the lock screw to release?

My next thought was to heat that section carefully to see if that would allow the screw to move. It is seated in a lead seal correct?

Any help/info would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Yup that nut was on mine crazy tight. I suppose it was age and what not but that nut didnt want to budge and I had to get rough with it. Clamp the action in a vice (carefully as to not mar anything) and then use a larger leverage thing on the rear of the special tool and then give it a sharp wack and keep your fingers crossed. I was going to use some heat but I managed to get mine off ok. Now putting that back together isnt any fun either as that model has to have the air transfer hole line up just right and also those lead seals are kind of a B to work with as you dont have much threads to start that nut back on.

Best of luck to you.
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Joined: June 25th, 2002, 1:34 pm

March 24th, 2011, 4:35 am #5

I am re-sealing my father's old Benjamin 310 and I have run into a snag...
I can not get the Outlet Valve Lock Screw (part #340)to budge.

I purchased the tool and the seal kit from Brian & Associates which comes with a copy of the owners manual as well as separate typed instructions for re-sealing the gun. The tool fits cleanly into place, but I cannot get it to move. I'm worried if I put too much force behind it, I will break the solder holding the barrel in place.

I've tried, soaking the area in WD40 and carefully vising the tube to get more leverage, but no luck so far.

Anyone have any recommendations on getting the lock screw to release?

My next thought was to heat that section carefully to see if that would allow the screw to move. It is seated in a lead seal correct?

Any help/info would be appreciated.
Thanks.
it's apart, if you want more power you can replace the valve return spring with a lighter one, the stock spring is ridiculously stiff to suppress power.
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Joined: March 19th, 2011, 2:50 am

March 24th, 2011, 5:28 am #6

I am re-sealing my father's old Benjamin 310 and I have run into a snag...
I can not get the Outlet Valve Lock Screw (part #340)to budge.

I purchased the tool and the seal kit from Brian & Associates which comes with a copy of the owners manual as well as separate typed instructions for re-sealing the gun. The tool fits cleanly into place, but I cannot get it to move. I'm worried if I put too much force behind it, I will break the solder holding the barrel in place.

I've tried, soaking the area in WD40 and carefully vising the tube to get more leverage, but no luck so far.

Anyone have any recommendations on getting the lock screw to release?

My next thought was to heat that section carefully to see if that would allow the screw to move. It is seated in a lead seal correct?

Any help/info would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Going to put it back in the vice and make another attempt at it tomorrow night. Thanks for the help. I'll post if I manage to get it out.
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Joined: July 6th, 2005, 5:26 am

March 24th, 2011, 7:46 pm #7

as BillS says, a few raps on tool. same principle as opening a jar of olives that wont come loose, a few raps upside down on metal sink usually does it for the olives or what ever. john
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Joined: March 19th, 2011, 2:50 am

March 25th, 2011, 3:39 pm #8

I am re-sealing my father's old Benjamin 310 and I have run into a snag...
I can not get the Outlet Valve Lock Screw (part #340)to budge.

I purchased the tool and the seal kit from Brian & Associates which comes with a copy of the owners manual as well as separate typed instructions for re-sealing the gun. The tool fits cleanly into place, but I cannot get it to move. I'm worried if I put too much force behind it, I will break the solder holding the barrel in place.

I've tried, soaking the area in WD40 and carefully vising the tube to get more leverage, but no luck so far.

Anyone have any recommendations on getting the lock screw to release?

My next thought was to heat that section carefully to see if that would allow the screw to move. It is seated in a lead seal correct?

Any help/info would be appreciated.
Thanks.
re-viced it and with a combination of tapping and steady pressure it came free. Thanks all.

Now I am working the valve out which looks like it is going to take some patience to get it out.
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Joined: March 19th, 2011, 2:50 am

March 26th, 2011, 2:45 am #9

Yup that nut was on mine crazy tight. I suppose it was age and what not but that nut didnt want to budge and I had to get rough with it. Clamp the action in a vice (carefully as to not mar anything) and then use a larger leverage thing on the rear of the special tool and then give it a sharp wack and keep your fingers crossed. I was going to use some heat but I managed to get mine off ok. Now putting that back together isnt any fun either as that model has to have the air transfer hole line up just right and also those lead seals are kind of a B to work with as you dont have much threads to start that nut back on.

Best of luck to you.
getting everything locked down again was a pain. It took about 20minutes and a lot of cursing before I could catch a thread.

It is all back together and seems to be holding air. I did 5 dry fires to clear out the chamber and I ran 5 BBs through it. The BBs seemed to lack the power I remember the 310 having, but I'll give it a serious test tomorrow (wish I had a chronograph to verify things... gonna have to settle for penetration test using a phone book and a 2 liter filled with water) I've got 4 pumps in it now and I am going to leave it over night. Hopefully it is still charged when I get up tomorrow.

Thanks all for the advice.
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