Anyone ever drill and tap a Crosman hammer ?

Anyone ever drill and tap a Crosman hammer ?

Joined: August 3rd, 2015, 11:39 pm

June 12th, 2017, 1:57 pm #1

I am thinking of doing this for a 22XX and eliminate the hammer pin. Would prefer to d&t the rear for a cocking knob, but a bolt in the side wouldn't be bad. 😀
I would appreciate anyone's knowledge or advise on this.

Thanks
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Joined: April 27th, 2008, 10:28 pm

June 12th, 2017, 3:05 pm #2

You can drill a Crosman hammer with a carbide bit, but you WILL break a tap, carbide or otherwise... unless you anneal the hammer first.

Take the back half to cherry red 3 times with a slow cooling period between.

Been there, ruined that!

Mike
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Joined: April 27th, 2008, 10:28 pm

June 12th, 2017, 3:07 pm #3

Oops!!!

I thought you were going to tap FOR a pin.

Then anneal the entire hammer before tapping.

Might want to re-harden the hammer nose when finished.
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Joined: August 3rd, 2015, 11:39 pm

June 12th, 2017, 3:37 pm #4

Thanks, Mike. I was wondering about annealing it first. Three times and slow cooling ? Seems about right. And a final anneal and a quick quench to harden it back up.
I am no blacksmith, but am an old plumber and I know enough to get me in trouble. 😀
Mike, you have a head full of knowledge and I truly thank you for sharing some of it with me.
I am still held up in Mass. With no tools till next month but I will post as soon as I get this done.

Mitch
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Joined: August 3rd, 2015, 11:39 pm

June 12th, 2017, 3:38 pm #5

You can drill a Crosman hammer with a carbide bit, but you WILL break a tap, carbide or otherwise... unless you anneal the hammer first.

Take the back half to cherry red 3 times with a slow cooling period between.

Been there, ruined that!

Mike
PRICELESS
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Joined: August 3rd, 2015, 11:39 pm

June 15th, 2017, 1:13 am #6

You can drill a Crosman hammer with a carbide bit, but you WILL break a tap, carbide or otherwise... unless you anneal the hammer first.

Take the back half to cherry red 3 times with a slow cooling period between.

Been there, ruined that!

Mike
I heated the hammer cherry red three times, let it air cool. It drilled and tapped like aluminum. Fired it once more and quick quenched it in water.
Very easy, thank you.
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Joined: April 12th, 2013, 11:15 am

June 17th, 2017, 9:00 pm #7

I am thinking of doing this for a 22XX and eliminate the hammer pin. Would prefer to d&t the rear for a cocking knob, but a bolt in the side wouldn't be bad. 😀
I would appreciate anyone's knowledge or advise on this.

Thanks
hammers are easy to drill for threaded pins
just grind a off the case hardening and the steel underneath is as soft as butter so drill and tap as normal but watch out when the drill and tap gets to the spring bore as that'll still be case hardened
if you're fitting an adjustable striker use a carbide burr to remove the hardened surface and then drill and tap as normal in your lathe
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Joined: August 3rd, 2015, 11:39 pm

June 18th, 2017, 9:48 pm #8

I am planning on another. The next one will be from the side.
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Joined: June 9th, 2016, 11:17 pm

June 20th, 2017, 7:29 pm #9

hammers are easy to drill for threaded pins
just grind a off the case hardening and the steel underneath is as soft as butter so drill and tap as normal but watch out when the drill and tap gets to the spring bore as that'll still be case hardened
if you're fitting an adjustable striker use a carbide burr to remove the hardened surface and then drill and tap as normal in your lathe
nt
Last edited by cobalt327 on June 20th, 2017, 9:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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