34 T01 Trigger Adjustment?

34 T01 Trigger Adjustment?

Joined: August 20th, 2008, 3:27 pm

December 4th, 2008, 1:46 pm #1

Hey everyone I have an older 34 Sport that has the T01 trigger but the screws are smaller and have smaller heads than the 54 T01 trigger? Does anyone know what the adjustment procedure is for this trigger? The factory manual just says not to touch the front screw and the rear one adjusts trigger pressure? I have a long first stage now that I would like to shorten. Thanks
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Joined: September 13th, 2007, 10:09 pm

December 4th, 2008, 10:18 pm #2

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Joined: November 12th, 2008, 12:43 am

December 4th, 2008, 10:21 pm #3

to have to deal with a T01 trigger.
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Joined: August 20th, 2008, 3:27 pm

December 4th, 2008, 10:51 pm #4

Is that second post by JeffM correct?
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Joined: November 7th, 2008, 1:46 am

December 4th, 2008, 11:03 pm #5

Hey everyone I have an older 34 Sport that has the T01 trigger but the screws are smaller and have smaller heads than the 54 T01 trigger? Does anyone know what the adjustment procedure is for this trigger? The factory manual just says not to touch the front screw and the rear one adjusts trigger pressure? I have a long first stage now that I would like to shorten. Thanks
http://www.eddiecolwell.tzo.com/RWS-54.htm on a RWS48/52 recently with nice results, a light 1/16" first stage and somewhere around 1-1/2lb second stage (that I would'nt call crisp but it do-able). Give it a try you can always still back the screw out for a long first stage.

John

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Joined: March 14th, 2004, 4:12 am

December 4th, 2008, 11:10 pm #6

Is that second post by JeffM correct?
I have adjusted dozens of TO1 triggers. (well, close to a couple of dozen anyway)

Jeff
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Joined: March 14th, 2004, 4:12 am

December 5th, 2008, 12:52 am #7

http://www.eddiecolwell.tzo.com/RWS-54.htm on a RWS48/52 recently with nice results, a light 1/16" first stage and somewhere around 1-1/2lb second stage (that I would'nt call crisp but it do-able). Give it a try you can always still back the screw out for a long first stage.

John

I have modified a few trigger blades so that the first screw could be screwed in further, but doing so reduces the amount of sear engagement.

My 36C is DANGEROUS with the front screw screwed in very little more than the stock maximum. It will bump off. (Most Diana's are not like this).

I don't feel right suggesting that others adjust their trigger to have less than full sear engagement (short first stage); I don't want to feel responsible for gun damage or shooter injury.

Most of the time the second stage will adjust completely out without any mod done to the trigger blade. If your second stage isn't crisp, you need to turn the rear screw counterclockwise until it is.

Jeff
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Joined: August 20th, 2008, 3:27 pm

December 5th, 2008, 1:57 pm #8

Jeff That sear engagement issue is what I was worried about. This is an old style T01 it has the narrower adjustment screws about 1/2 or less the size of the 54 screw head size. Have you seen this style? Also I would like to make this trigger the best it can be without the bump fire issue. What is the best way to shorten the long first stage,and have a crisp second?, turn in the 1st stage or front screw? Also without disasembling the rifle how can I check for proper sear engagement? I am not a novice with triggers just with this style. Thanks
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Joined: August 20th, 2008, 3:27 pm

December 5th, 2008, 6:01 pm #9

I have modified a few trigger blades so that the first screw could be screwed in further, but doing so reduces the amount of sear engagement.

My 36C is DANGEROUS with the front screw screwed in very little more than the stock maximum. It will bump off. (Most Diana's are not like this).

I don't feel right suggesting that others adjust their trigger to have less than full sear engagement (short first stage); I don't want to feel responsible for gun damage or shooter injury.

Most of the time the second stage will adjust completely out without any mod done to the trigger blade. If your second stage isn't crisp, you need to turn the rear screw counterclockwise until it is.

Jeff
Jeff just got done adjusting and found out this one doesn't need the trigger mod at all it has more than enough adjustment to over adjust the first stage without the screw head bottoming out on the trigger. I adjusted 1/2 turn in on both and ended up alot better but the second stage needed 1/4 more in to remove some creep in it. The first stage screw is very senitive and if adjusted slightly more it goes to almost no take up and unpredictable let off. So now the trigger is much better with a shorter 1st stage and a crisp second. I banged on the rifle with the safety off to check sear engagement and no let off I will check safety on and pull trigger then release safety and see if it lets off on release of safety tonight. Seems good to go! Thanks for your help and if there is some other easy way to check the sear for enough safe engagement let me know? Thanks again
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Joined: August 20th, 2008, 3:27 pm

December 5th, 2008, 6:13 pm #10

I have modified a few trigger blades so that the first screw could be screwed in further, but doing so reduces the amount of sear engagement.

My 36C is DANGEROUS with the front screw screwed in very little more than the stock maximum. It will bump off. (Most Diana's are not like this).

I don't feel right suggesting that others adjust their trigger to have less than full sear engagement (short first stage); I don't want to feel responsible for gun damage or shooter injury.

Most of the time the second stage will adjust completely out without any mod done to the trigger blade. If your second stage isn't crisp, you need to turn the rear screw counterclockwise until it is.

Jeff
Also Jeff adjusting the second stage screw out lengthens the first stage and increases creep on the second? This is how it worked out of me.
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