Lemhi limestone... Dean?

Lemhi limestone... Dean?

splattski
splattski

December 19th, 2011, 4:24 am #1

We got an eyeful of Lemhi limestone today. Has anyone tried to do any rock climbing in Saddle Mountain's Middle Canyon? What a place!

TR:
http://www.splattski.com/2011/saddle/index.html

BTW- no gear needed on December 18: no snowshoes, crampons, or axe.
Quote
Share

Joined: January 15th, 2008, 6:19 am

December 19th, 2011, 6:24 am #2

Nice TR! Looks like there wasn't much snow at all. Yesterday I climbed a 10,500 ft. peak http://www.summitpost.org/currant-creek-peak/653085) and slogged 12 miles in 18 inches of powder to do it. Shoulda drove to Idaho...
The view of the Wasatch was awesome though.
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: June 17th, 2009, 5:29 pm

December 19th, 2011, 6:59 pm #3

We got an eyeful of Lemhi limestone today. Has anyone tried to do any rock climbing in Saddle Mountain's Middle Canyon? What a place!

TR:
http://www.splattski.com/2011/saddle/index.html

BTW- no gear needed on December 18: no snowshoes, crampons, or axe.
Thanks for sharing a unique place!
Quote
Like
Share

Wes
Wes

December 19th, 2011, 9:11 pm #4

We got an eyeful of Lemhi limestone today. Has anyone tried to do any rock climbing in Saddle Mountain's Middle Canyon? What a place!

TR:
http://www.splattski.com/2011/saddle/index.html

BTW- no gear needed on December 18: no snowshoes, crampons, or axe.
Wow, those walls are impressive! Now that you've had your hands on them, how do they compare to the limestone two doors down in Box Canyon?
Quote
Share

Joined: October 3rd, 2006, 6:10 pm

December 19th, 2011, 9:35 pm #5

I've been asking if this area is possible to develope or not and the answer isn't good. This area is zone by the BLM as a wilderness study area.

http://www.blm.gov/ca/pa/wilderness/wil ... alShe1.pdf

Everyone at the BLM says 'I don't know" when asked about the bolt anchor question. But I just got off the phone with Robbin Fehlau at the Capitol and she helped me out. Turns out you can drive into the range and you can drive into WSA on existing "ways" or double tracks.
If you click on the above pdf link and scroll down to page 47 you will read sub title #10 about rockclimbing and caving.
"Rockclimbng and caving actvities will be allowed as long as these activities meet the nonimparement criteria. The use of power driven (ie fuel or electric) rock drills or perminant anchors (e.g. bolts) is not alowed. No marring, scarring, or defacing resulting in adverse impacts to the wilderness value of naturalness will be permitted, nor will perminant installations be permitted."
According to #8 feel free to pan for gold just don't sell it to the masses.
According to #5 you can camp and even RV back in there as long as you do so on an existing way.
According to #2 you can collect rocks, and fossil samples as much as you like, just don't sell them to the masses.
And lastly according to #1 No mechanical transport motorized or not such as mountain bike are allowed on trails.
Quote
Like
Share

splattski
splattski

December 19th, 2011, 10:24 pm #6

Wow, those walls are impressive! Now that you've had your hands on them, how do they compare to the limestone two doors down in Box Canyon?
Wes-
I've never been to Box Canyon. But from what I understand, the routes are generally less than one pitch?
It's hard to estimate height from the bottom of a cliff, but I swear we were walking under walls over 300' that were overhanging the trail. My neck is a bit stiff today.
Also, the part of the canyon with walls is almost two miles long, so a bit of a hike to get to some of the more impressive features. But some were within 10 minutes of the car.

As far as the rock- it's sort of weird stuff. Some cracks. Sort of a slabby, incut appearance, but the in cuts were inverted, so not great crimps.
As for larger features, some pour-overs-- but no evidence of regularly running water anywhere. Lots of pockets and caves.
And I was using my (lousy, amateur) geology skills to determine that the area must have been seismically active after the carbonate was deposited, because we saw quartz bands running through it.
Very different from the rock high on the peak. The upper stuff is that sharp, nappy stuff that shreds your gloves and makes your shoes feel like velcro.
Quote
Share

splattski
splattski

December 19th, 2011, 10:29 pm #7

I've been asking if this area is possible to develope or not and the answer isn't good. This area is zone by the BLM as a wilderness study area.

http://www.blm.gov/ca/pa/wilderness/wil ... alShe1.pdf

Everyone at the BLM says 'I don't know" when asked about the bolt anchor question. But I just got off the phone with Robbin Fehlau at the Capitol and she helped me out. Turns out you can drive into the range and you can drive into WSA on existing "ways" or double tracks.
If you click on the above pdf link and scroll down to page 47 you will read sub title #10 about rockclimbing and caving.
"Rockclimbng and caving actvities will be allowed as long as these activities meet the nonimparement criteria. The use of power driven (ie fuel or electric) rock drills or perminant anchors (e.g. bolts) is not alowed. No marring, scarring, or defacing resulting in adverse impacts to the wilderness value of naturalness will be permitted, nor will perminant installations be permitted."
According to #8 feel free to pan for gold just don't sell it to the masses.
According to #5 you can camp and even RV back in there as long as you do so on an existing way.
According to #2 you can collect rocks, and fossil samples as much as you like, just don't sell them to the masses.
And lastly according to #1 No mechanical transport motorized or not such as mountain bike are allowed on trails.
Kevin-
I don't want to sound like I am promoting anything, but I could swear I found a report (but can't find it now) saying the area was DENIED wsa status. If that is the case, the whole WSA rules thing is moot.

And by the way- from where we parked (the 'trailhead'), I really doubt that any motor vehicle could go any further up the canyon. The first 200' of gain is nasty, loose talus in a narrow ravine. But there are walls and towers below that point.
Quote
Share

Joined: January 15th, 2008, 6:19 am

December 19th, 2011, 11:10 pm #8

Wes-
I've never been to Box Canyon. But from what I understand, the routes are generally less than one pitch?
It's hard to estimate height from the bottom of a cliff, but I swear we were walking under walls over 300' that were overhanging the trail. My neck is a bit stiff today.
Also, the part of the canyon with walls is almost two miles long, so a bit of a hike to get to some of the more impressive features. But some were within 10 minutes of the car.

As far as the rock- it's sort of weird stuff. Some cracks. Sort of a slabby, incut appearance, but the in cuts were inverted, so not great crimps.
As for larger features, some pour-overs-- but no evidence of regularly running water anywhere. Lots of pockets and caves.
And I was using my (lousy, amateur) geology skills to determine that the area must have been seismically active after the carbonate was deposited, because we saw quartz bands running through it.
Very different from the rock high on the peak. The upper stuff is that sharp, nappy stuff that shreds your gloves and makes your shoes feel like velcro.
This picture makes it look like a Utah slot canyon but it's one of Ralph Maughan's pics from Middle Canyon on Google Earth.
Quote
Like
Share

Wes
Wes

December 19th, 2011, 11:35 pm #9

I've been asking if this area is possible to develope or not and the answer isn't good. This area is zone by the BLM as a wilderness study area.

http://www.blm.gov/ca/pa/wilderness/wil ... alShe1.pdf

Everyone at the BLM says 'I don't know" when asked about the bolt anchor question. But I just got off the phone with Robbin Fehlau at the Capitol and she helped me out. Turns out you can drive into the range and you can drive into WSA on existing "ways" or double tracks.
If you click on the above pdf link and scroll down to page 47 you will read sub title #10 about rockclimbing and caving.
"Rockclimbng and caving actvities will be allowed as long as these activities meet the nonimparement criteria. The use of power driven (ie fuel or electric) rock drills or perminant anchors (e.g. bolts) is not alowed. No marring, scarring, or defacing resulting in adverse impacts to the wilderness value of naturalness will be permitted, nor will perminant installations be permitted."
According to #8 feel free to pan for gold just don't sell it to the masses.
According to #5 you can camp and even RV back in there as long as you do so on an existing way.
According to #2 you can collect rocks, and fossil samples as much as you like, just don't sell them to the masses.
And lastly according to #1 No mechanical transport motorized or not such as mountain bike are allowed on trails.
Yup, there was some archaeological resource damage in the Box canyon area by off road vehicles and someone (not climbers)who drilled several 1" diameter test holes in and around some petroglyphs at the bottom of one of the better climbs there. I'm not sure if that was the cause of the bolting ban but it likely helped.
Quote
Share

Wes
Wes

December 19th, 2011, 11:46 pm #10

Wes-
I've never been to Box Canyon. But from what I understand, the routes are generally less than one pitch?
It's hard to estimate height from the bottom of a cliff, but I swear we were walking under walls over 300' that were overhanging the trail. My neck is a bit stiff today.
Also, the part of the canyon with walls is almost two miles long, so a bit of a hike to get to some of the more impressive features. But some were within 10 minutes of the car.

As far as the rock- it's sort of weird stuff. Some cracks. Sort of a slabby, incut appearance, but the in cuts were inverted, so not great crimps.
As for larger features, some pour-overs-- but no evidence of regularly running water anywhere. Lots of pockets and caves.
And I was using my (lousy, amateur) geology skills to determine that the area must have been seismically active after the carbonate was deposited, because we saw quartz bands running through it.
Very different from the rock high on the peak. The upper stuff is that sharp, nappy stuff that shreds your gloves and makes your shoes feel like velcro.
John,
After looking at your pics and the Maughn photo Matt posted I'm definitely going to go have a look. May as well, we sure as hell aint skiing! There are a couple 3 pitch routes in Box that go to about 300 feet but you're right, most are short pitches on super sharp stuff. As for climbing in Middle, I won't hold out much hope, the rock in the area isn't much for taking gear.
Quote
Share


Confirmation of reply: