Conditions/Partners N. Face Borah

Conditions/Partners N. Face Borah

Joined: May 21st, 2013, 3:47 pm

May 21st, 2013, 4:07 pm #1

Hello,

Out of state climber looking for a partner for a climb of the North Face of Borah starting Sunday AM 5/26.

Also has anyone been up recently? Is there substantial avalanche hazard on the route?
Thank you!

Ian(ijkowalc@mtu.edu)
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Joined: October 31st, 2011, 6:49 pm

May 21st, 2013, 5:50 pm #2

I haven't seen it recently, but I have been into the mountains a bunch the last few weeks. It is most likely a snow climb at this time of year. I'd be surprised if you found any ice, and not surprised if you ended up doing some post-holing on the approach.

The snow is in spring conditions, and the only avy hazard should probably be wet slides. So if you get a good freeze the night before, and get up it early before it heats up too much, I would think it will be fine.

That said, I haven't seen it, so hopefully someone who has (Kevin or Wes, are you reading this?) can verify what the actual conditions look like.

There should be a link somewhere to a webcam that has a view of it too . . .

Cheers and have fun!
Cory
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Joined: October 3rd, 2006, 6:10 pm

May 21st, 2013, 8:02 pm #3

I shot this footage with my still camera on Mothers Day morning. Not the best quality. Since then the LRR has experienced a new storm dropping down probably 5 inches of new snow above 11,000.
Its not the best time of year for a North Face ascent of Mount Borah because of the Freeze/Thaw cycles the range is experiencing right now. Day time highs are in the 40's while night time lows are in the 20's.
This will make for great hiking in the early hours of the morning before 11am. After that you will sink up to your hips in slush.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBEW3RckZMQ

This was the First video I've ever uploaded to Youtube.
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Joined: October 3rd, 2006, 6:10 pm

May 21st, 2013, 8:33 pm #4

?t=1369167204

How You drop down into the North Face Cirque.

?t=1369167918

The (A) is my favorite way to approach the North Face and it was found by Mike Howard Its known as the Mike Howard Traverse
The (B) way is a long cleaner hike.



From my experience, it is rare that a person finds the North Face on their first attempt. After a day of wandering around, you will get to a high point and look around and see what you need to do the next time you wander into the range.
Kevin
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Joined: October 31st, 2011, 6:49 pm

May 21st, 2013, 9:06 pm #5

Kevin, your description of the typical first attempt to find the GIANT north face of the highest mountain in Idaho is spot on. I got shut down my first 3 attempts without ever getting to the route. The first two times on the approach by route finding and waist deep postholing, and the other time when 8" of fresh snow dropped as we were sleeping in the parking lot (remember?).

The time I finally got it we went first weekend in August. The bottom half of the route was still snow, with the top half ice. If you want ice all the way I think you need to wait until September.
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SummitGirl
SummitGirl

May 21st, 2013, 10:20 pm #6

I shot this footage with my still camera on Mothers Day morning. Not the best quality. Since then the LRR has experienced a new storm dropping down probably 5 inches of new snow above 11,000.
Its not the best time of year for a North Face ascent of Mount Borah because of the Freeze/Thaw cycles the range is experiencing right now. Day time highs are in the 40's while night time lows are in the 20's.
This will make for great hiking in the early hours of the morning before 11am. After that you will sink up to your hips in slush.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBEW3RckZMQ

This was the First video I've ever uploaded to Youtube.
Wondering if we saw you on Mothers Day. We were at the top of McCaleb around 10 ish and watched a plane soon after take off in the valley and head toward the Borah end of the range.
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Geo
Geo

May 22nd, 2013, 3:11 am #7

?t=1369167204

How You drop down into the North Face Cirque.

?t=1369167918

The (A) is my favorite way to approach the North Face and it was found by Mike Howard Its known as the Mike Howard Traverse
The (B) way is a long cleaner hike.



From my experience, it is rare that a person finds the North Face on their first attempt. After a day of wandering around, you will get to a high point and look around and see what you need to do the next time you wander into the range.
Kevin
The man asks for beta and you deliver a secret passage topo map and a timely aerial video. I've seen some good beta here, but you just set the bar pretty high.

-George
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Wes
Wes

May 22nd, 2013, 3:35 am #8

Hello,

Out of state climber looking for a partner for a climb of the North Face of Borah starting Sunday AM 5/26.

Also has anyone been up recently? Is there substantial avalanche hazard on the route?
Thank you!

Ian(ijkowalc@mtu.edu)

From a few days ago.
It'll be all snow, I took a look at the upper part of the route from the upper Pahsimeroi with some field glasses and it looks like the summit couloir is all snow and I'm good shape as well.
Good luck!
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Joined: October 3rd, 2006, 6:10 pm

May 22nd, 2013, 2:56 pm #9

The man asks for beta and you deliver a secret passage topo map and a timely aerial video. I've seen some good beta here, but you just set the bar pretty high.

-George
Even with all this help, I would be shocked if anyone can nail the thing on their first go.
One of my first times into the North Face took a similar path as these folks.
http://tinyurl.com/qjrlz2f
We were way off track, and lost hours to down climbing ledges and traversing the wrong hill side.
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Joined: October 31st, 2011, 6:49 pm

May 22nd, 2013, 3:21 pm #10

. . .is to just stay in the drainage, But be ready to bushwhack if you do . . .
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