Baron Spire in the Sawtooth's

Baron Spire in the Sawtooth's

Joined: October 3rd, 2006, 6:10 pm

May 2nd, 2012, 11:00 pm #1

I'm looking for any and all info on the North Ridge of Baron Spire. Yes I read summitpost, and how is says that the FAist didn't post any route info, but does anyone know of any out there?
18 pitchs.. Sheesh.
Kevin
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splattski
splattski

May 3rd, 2012, 3:25 am #2

Kevin-
I think there is some stuff about Baron Spire on CascadeClimbers.com
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Joined: December 20th, 2007, 3:45 pm

May 4th, 2012, 4:14 pm #3

I'm looking for any and all info on the North Ridge of Baron Spire. Yes I read summitpost, and how is says that the FAist didn't post any route info, but does anyone know of any out there?
18 pitchs.. Sheesh.
Kevin
Stop in at The Elephant's Perch in Ketchum. They have beta on the route. I think it is 18 pitches and up to 11b with some offwidth pitches thrown in. If you can, Reid Dowdle would be the guy to talk to since he put the route up.

Thanks a lot... now you'v got me daydreaming of Sawtooth granite!

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Bob
Bob

May 4th, 2012, 10:33 pm #4

I'm looking for any and all info on the North Ridge of Baron Spire. Yes I read summitpost, and how is says that the FAist didn't post any route info, but does anyone know of any out there?
18 pitchs.. Sheesh.
Kevin
There's a great story "Following the Footsteps of Sawtooth Range Pioneers" by Ray Brooks in the latest edition of The Idaho Magazine. It covers a number of Sawtooth "firsts" by Fred Beckey, Pete Schoening and Jack Schwabland in 1949. He covers Baron Spire, The Rakers, and The Grand Aiguille. It does not give you specific route information but it sure makes for a great read. Fred's (20) bolt ladder on the summit "egg" of Baron Spire is still there although most of the bolts have been replaced. From what I read his classic drill-bit anchor is still there. Ray didn't mentioned his attempt on Beckey's route on Elephant's Perch in this article. When they attempted to repeat the route they got way off route and ended up putting up a whole new line on the West Face.

And,

As I think you are finding out; getting specific Sawtooth route information out of people is a lot like pulling teeth.


bob
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Dave
Dave

May 5th, 2012, 12:16 am #5

I had a chance to read that article yesterday. Good stuff.
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Ray Brooks
Ray Brooks

May 12th, 2012, 3:34 pm #6

Glad to read that you enjoyed my article on tracing Fred Beckey, Pete Schoening, & Jack Schwabland's epic 1949 trip through the Sawtooths. I quote from Schwabland's account of the trip in the 1950 American Alpine Journal, and added my own photos and stories.

They had one heck of an adventure in only 8 days. They made three technical 1st ascents, climbed 3 more peaks, traversed much of the range, and nearly died in a lightning storm on Baron Spire.

It only took me from 1971 to 2011 to visit the same peaks.

Heres a link to Idaho Magazines Facebook page on my story.
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Idaho-Mag ... 8896083093

and here is a link to their website.
http://www.idahomagazine.com/current_issue.asp

Re routes on the north side of Baron Spire:

Summer of 1971, we hiked and scrambled up lines of weakness on the northeast corner of Baron Spire until we found a wide ledge that took us well out onto the north face.

We had scouted the start of this route two days previously, and we were both impressed by the possibilities. Our rope-up ledge was about 500 feet above the start of the steep north face, and above us stretched an invitingly low-angled area that led up to vertical headwalls.
We enjoyed seven 120 foot leads to the summit block. After four leads of lower angle rock, the route took off up steep cracks. Harry improvised aiders and aided up part of one pitch.

In 1977 I went back to same route and it went free at 5.9. I never wrote the route up for the AAJ, but have named it North Face Cutoff.

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