first in low1 only

first in low1 only

Joined: August 11th, 2012, 10:54 pm

August 17th, 2012, 11:47 pm #1

Just rebuilt 1976 C6, SK-6 truck VB kit,and type F fluid. All measurments set just over minimum(air check good), gov. cleaned looked good. Mod still set a little tight hard to adjust in front of transfer case but will get to tomarrow. Do not have kick down made yet. Every thing works great firm and quick but will not go to first unless I shift it there even at a full stop, from any selection to drive it starts in second gear. Also installed plastic "sprag" and inner race with bearing. Any sugestions ? My internet is out so hafta use my phone,sorry for the less than ideal Msg layout.
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Joined: July 17th, 2011, 7:07 pm

August 17th, 2012, 11:56 pm #2


Sounds like the governor may be stuck, not fun to check on a 4X4.

If not the governor then the valve body may be sticky on the 1-2 shift valve.
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Joined: August 11th, 2012, 10:54 pm

August 18th, 2012, 1:30 am #3

OK when cold it will take off in 1st till I get down the drive and on the road then it might or not go to first when I pull on the road but thats the last time. Let it cool and same thing repeats. So I am leaning towards the 1-2 valve and I did not use a torque wrench on the VB, are these VB finiky that way? And yes GalaxieX the NP205 is a pain to pull, the case and cross member are from a 1978 and Ford changed radius arm brackets in 78. They must have changed asy jigs or something cause the bolt holes are a threads width off.
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Joined: August 11th, 2012, 10:54 pm

August 18th, 2012, 1:32 am #4

Sounds like the governor may be stuck, not fun to check on a 4X4.

If not the governor then the valve body may be sticky on the 1-2 shift valve.
Re: update
Last edited by james6600 on August 18th, 2012, 1:34 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: July 17th, 2011, 7:07 pm

August 18th, 2012, 3:09 am #5

OK when cold it will take off in 1st till I get down the drive and on the road then it might or not go to first when I pull on the road but thats the last time. Let it cool and same thing repeats. So I am leaning towards the 1-2 valve and I did not use a torque wrench on the VB, are these VB finiky that way? And yes GalaxieX the NP205 is a pain to pull, the case and cross member are from a 1978 and Ford changed radius arm brackets in 78. They must have changed asy jigs or something cause the bolt holes are a threads width off.
Could be either one... VB is easiest to check first on a 4X4.

The VB is not too fussy as long as you didn't really crank the bolts down hard. I build them all the time and do not use a torque wrench... but my 30+ yrs experience has given me a calibrated wrist... <img alt="wink.gif" src="/images/wink.gif" width="14" height="14">

The worst problem with an aluminum VB is the micro particles that get embedded in the aluminum and cause exactly the problem you have. A valve that only seems to stick when warmed up.

Here's an old rebuilders trick...

With just the valves installed in the VB, but do NOT assemble the VB to the channel plate half.

Lay a rag out flat on a steel bench or other flat solid surface and kinda "body slam" the flat open worm track side of the VB down on the rag. You don't have to really pound it... just a smart slap on the bench. Try and make sure the VB comes down nice and flat/level. If you are concerned about marring the VB put down a small 12" X 12" sheet of 1/4" thick plywood and "slam" on that.

What this does is.. the steel valves in the VB will kinda flatten/embed those micro particles "into" the aluminum of the valve bore... and flatten any micro burrs that might be causing a valve to hang.

Sounds kinda weird/stupid but it works...

Also kinda hard to explain.. I hope that made sense...

Ps, I also kinda slam/smack the governor body around a couple of times with the valves installed in it. I almost never have a valve stick after doing this.
Last edited by galaxiex on August 18th, 2012, 3:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: August 11th, 2012, 10:54 pm

August 18th, 2012, 5:39 pm #6

I backed the mod. out two turns and took it for a drive today and at the end of the driveway it stuck again, put it in reverse and back to drive then it started in 1st, went a mile down the road with a stop in the middle and no problems. I backed the mod. out again and now it shifts 1-2 at 20mph and 2-3 at 35mph with a nice quick but not harsh shift, at full throttle shifts very firm dosen't break traction but close and in 6 miles worked as it should. By the way this truck has a 66 390 2V with an S code 4V intake low miles and never been apart except to add intake. Up to 70mph or the 2-3 shift no new 4X4 can pull on it but then those 5spd trannys put a fender length on her. Thanks again for the help GalaxieX glad I didn't have to pull anything as I hi-tacked the gaskets, and sorry for the blank replies my phone dosen't get good service and I have been waiting three days for service tech to show up and replace my internet radio reciever.
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Joined: July 17th, 2011, 7:07 pm

August 18th, 2012, 5:57 pm #7


Glad it seems to be working now.

The governor was probably a little sticky... the clue is that it "unstuck" when you put the trans in reverse.

That is a very tell-tale sign that the governor is sticky.

Here's another little old guy trans rebuilder "trick" for you.... if you can stomach doing this....

When the governor sticks/hangs up... let the vehicle roll forward in "D" at a crawl... just 2-3 mph barely moving... and then put the gear shift in reverse just for a second and back to "D". What you do is just kinda "bump" the gearshift from "D" to "R" and back to "D" very quickly.

The slight shock from doing this "snaps" the governor valve free and will often cure a slightly stuck governor. This won't work if the governor is "really stuck".

I have also had good luck using an additive such as LubeGard when valves are only slightly stuck. I generally don't like most additives, but LubeGard seems to be good stuff.
Last edited by galaxiex on August 18th, 2012, 6:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: November 18th, 2004, 4:20 am

August 18th, 2012, 7:00 pm #8

I backed the mod. out two turns and took it for a drive today and at the end of the driveway it stuck again, put it in reverse and back to drive then it started in 1st, went a mile down the road with a stop in the middle and no problems. I backed the mod. out again and now it shifts 1-2 at 20mph and 2-3 at 35mph with a nice quick but not harsh shift, at full throttle shifts very firm dosen't break traction but close and in 6 miles worked as it should. By the way this truck has a 66 390 2V with an S code 4V intake low miles and never been apart except to add intake. Up to 70mph or the 2-3 shift no new 4X4 can pull on it but then those 5spd trannys put a fender length on her. Thanks again for the help GalaxieX glad I didn't have to pull anything as I hi-tacked the gaskets, and sorry for the blank replies my phone dosen't get good service and I have been waiting three days for service tech to show up and replace my internet radio reciever.
You never need any hitack glue or any glue for that matter, other than the exterior of a metal seal.

Galaxies method of freeing valves works well and I have used a thin screwdriver between the valve lands and given it a tap with a hammer.

Glad it's working now.

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