WW2 german NMF finish in 10 steps

hobbykiller
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Joined: 9:44 AM - Jan 15, 2012

9:27 AM - Jun 26, 2018 #1

I am sorry for small pictures. I know those days 1024 pix is obsolete. They were taken in 2013 and I lost original ones, I have only small resized. I hope they will be sufficient for illustration.
To simulate NMF finish you will need to combine several techniques, airbrushing and extensive use of traditional paint brush. All works are freehand. I recommend to first try all of this on spare parts. It is easier than looks like, but still - please try first and decide if you like effect.

base painting

0 - surface preparation. There is no preparation. No primer, no undercoat, everything is only sanded smooth. Real aircraft was dirty, scratched, and matt so no need to polish everything. I made rivets as always.

1 - Whole airframe airbrushed freehand by Gunze Super Metallic SM01 in mix of 4 shades to simulate "checkerboard" look (1-basic paint, 2 basic paint with few drops of black, 3 - same but with red add-on, 4 - same, white add-on). Mix numbers simulate: 1 - fresh aluminum, 2- heat resistant or heat treated steel, 3- fresh steel, 4 - oxided aluminum. Of course you can use whatever paint you prefer, and use masking tape as well. But at this stage you can really forget about overspray - next stages will mask everything.
on side: Gunze SM are magic paints. Their formula recalls surfacer - this paint is levelling and smoothing irregularities on surface.





2 - Light grey "ghosting base" under putty lines, airbrushed freehand directly on metal. This is rather "must" to be sprayed, but if you don't feel strong in freehand painting or don't have precise airbrush - don't give up. You can always use two parallel lines of blu-tack and spray line between them. Freehand is faster way however. Don't worry on overspray or imperfections. Use your photo reference to place these lines correctly. They were in some places only.





main effects

3 - nose section - thinned coat of RLM02 over metal airbrushed + thinned mid grey putty lines paint brushed, lightly sanded with sanding foam (to "damage" coat slightly). Bear in mind Me-262 nose section was made from steel (not aluminum) so it was always painted to prevent rust. There were no NMF noses on 262.



4 - tail section - grey putty lines handbrushed + thinned white-grey as "undercoat paint" over the tail section (airbrushed freehand). Tail on me-262 was aluminum, but came from suppliers and was often pre-painted (however it may be sometimes NMF in opposition to the nose - use your documentation)



5 - fuselage central section and wings - thinned light grey putty lines handbrushed (by 0 paintbrush)...





... than second layer (also handbrushed) of mid grey over them. Sanded with sanding foam to take off excess of paint and agian "damage" lines.





detailing

6 - various covers handbrushed RLM76 or off white, nose lightened by thin coat of light grey (by paintbrush)





7 - lines lightened. Very thin light grey painted by handbrush in places where I wanted to change. Engine nacelles are camouflaged in this particular plane - according to pictures. Slots, flaps - are painted in various shades of blue-grey as undercoat factory painting. After all putty lines were again very gently sanded by the (fine) sanding sponge - to obtain irregularity. Don't worry about metal paint damage - Gunze SM is solid as a rock and very resistant to such treatening.





8 - factory metal sheet decal stencilling







9 - decals on (national markings, some stencils, and parts numbers)







10 After all you can use your favorite method to make it dirty (wash or dry pastels are recommended) but use it sparse. Those a/c were almost "factory fresh" - no too much smoke there.

And most important - have fun!

Final effect:



On the other thread I'll decribe why those planes looked so strange.
cheers, Mark
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Joined: 5:10 PM - Mar 19, 2016

11:17 AM - Jun 26, 2018 #2

Thank you very very much!!!
I fall asleep after have counted the third rivet...

...and criticism always welcomed!
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Ruudster
Godzilla
Joined: 11:50 PM - Jul 22, 2012

8:13 PM - Jun 26, 2018 #3

Thank you for the step by step for the painting on this beautiful build!
Ruud van der Salm
SW WA
OMS-IPMS, Portland OR
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RJ Tucker
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Joined: 12:20 AM - Oct 23, 2011

9:26 PM - Jun 26, 2018 #4

Well done! I may have to try that when I start "MiG mania" here soon*.


*Soon, as in before the 'hundredth anniversary of the Tet Offensive.
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MDriskill
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Joined: 8:02 PM - Feb 19, 2011

1:46 AM - Jun 27, 2018 #5

Wonderful stuf! I really appreciate your posting it and will enjoy further study.
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piero
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Joined: 10:28 PM - Sep 14, 2014

3:56 AM - Jun 27, 2018 #6

Many thanks for your post !
Very interesting set of images. The work done is beautiful.
Giampiero
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Graeme H
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Joined: 9:11 PM - Apr 13, 2011

5:49 AM - Jun 27, 2018 #7

a real masterclass :like:
Graeme
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stimpy
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stimpy
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Joined: 1:12 PM - Jul 17, 2012

11:57 AM - Jun 27, 2018 #8

Same here, thanks for posting this, I shall try this method.
White Male Privilege
Is Outdated Bullshit.
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ca-15
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Joined: 3:29 AM - Nov 05, 2010

7:47 AM - Jun 28, 2018 #9

Thanks for the easy to understand lesson Mark.

This is the type of article that should be in some of the modelling magazines rather than a lot of the repetitive builds we see.
Any thought of getting published? This would reach out to a much wider audience.

Cheers

Michael
Michael Louey
Melbourne Australia
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hobbykiller
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Joined: 9:44 AM - Jan 15, 2012

1:01 PM - Jun 28, 2018 #10

ca-15 wrote:Thanks for the easy to understand lesson Mark.

This is the type of article that should be in some of the modelling magazines rather than a lot of the repetitive builds we see.
Any thought of getting published? This would reach out to a much wider audience.
Michael,

Good idea, but I would need to repeat whole process on white background and bigger size. And no idea who would like to publish such thing(s). Unfortunately it seems I lost original size of pics, so from this material it is impossible. Maybe I have bigger pics on some external HDD, I would need to look... Actually I have article on that plane written already, then I had idea to publish somewhere - I don't remember but it seems nobody interested at all.

But, at least you have it here :D
cheers, Mark
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dknights
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Joined: 7:07 PM - Sep 30, 2010

9:31 PM - Jun 28, 2018 #11

Thank you for posting this. This type of stuff is some of the most valuable stuff on the Forum
David M. Knights
Fortes fortuna adiuvat

14 Finished: Special Armor V-2, Airfix P-51
15 Finished: SBS Gladiator engine
16 Finished: Brengun C2 Wasserfall, Merit SS-N-2 Styx, World's smallest diorama, Airfix Hurricane.
17 Finished: Japanese Carrier Deck, Belcher SS-4, Italeri AB41, PLAN Type 039A (not 72nd scale)
18 Finished: Tamiya A6M2
The bench:Platz T-33, Trump. T-34/85, Meng F-106, Airfix P-51 #2, Airfix P-40
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bosco
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Joined: 4:33 AM - Dec 07, 2015

3:44 PM - Jun 29, 2018 #12

Very creative! What kit was it?
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hobbykiller
Beast
Joined: 9:44 AM - Jan 15, 2012

4:53 PM - Jun 29, 2018 #13

Thanks all :)
bosco wrote:What kit was it?
Revell - oltimer, and still best on the market...
cheers, Mark
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Joined: 9:09 PM - Oct 03, 2010

1:31 AM - Jul 06, 2018 #14

What a magnificent tutorial, Mark. Many thanks for posting this!
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