Eduard Fw 190A-8 construction notes

MDriskill
Hero
Joined: February 19th, 2011, 8:02 pm

July 31st, 2016, 11:07 am #1

With the help of Andrea (Homus Brencus), and a local friend also working on the kit, I have kept a list of notes on this little beauty as I go. Here is where it stands for now, additional notes are welcome!

GENERAL/MISCELLANEOUS
* These notes are based on the original A-8 "Profipack" kit, Eduard number 70111. Other versions of the kit may have differences.
*Many construction joints coincide with panel lines, and fit so closely that liquid cement can erase the line! The join of the lower wing rear extension to the lower fuselage sides is a good example. Lightly bevel edges of parts before joining, and/or re-scribe afterward as appropriate.
*Some parts have a slight raised “lip” on their edges. Check fit in advance, and scrape or sand lightly as required.
*The various piano hinges used at access panels are represented as raised lines. They need to be sanded down slightly (exception, the ones on the cowl panels look good to me as is).

WHEEL WELL/WING
*Front leg of lower engine mount (part number A67) must be shortened for wheel well insert (A89) to fit properly.
*The nose gun ammo boxes should protrude into the wheel well much farther. Add plastic to the bottom of the insert (A30) to represent this.
*The attachment sockets for the main landing gear struts (A21, A22) are quite a loose fit. Check references carefully to correctly achieve the 190’s distinctively angled gear; I made a jig for mine.
*The gear cover doors are rather thick. It pays to thin the edges. Eduard themselves make photo-etch replacements if so inclined.
*The underside of the port wing did not fit quite flush at the tip, and required some sanding and filling. This may be more of a construction error on my part, than typical of the kit, though.

NOSE/ENGINE
*The cowl top panel (C4) is hard to seat flush with the adjacent side panels. It can throw the nose shape off a little if you aren't careful.
*The prop (A25) and engine fan (A11) sit too far forward; the fan face should be noticeably aft of the front lip of the oil cooler ring. Sand down the front of engine crankcase (A77), plus maybe dish out back of fan (A11), as needed.
*The prop will droop because its shaft (back of A11) is quite short, and smaller in diameter than its mounting hole. I made a new shaft and mount of telescoping brass tubing, but if you don’t need the prop to spin simply glue it in place, or snug up the shaft with a paper shim.
*The prop blade apertures in the spinner (A76) are so narrow they can interfere once the prop is painted. Sand them out a bit wider.

COCKPIT/CANOPY
*Top edge of lower instrument panel (A29) is so wide it will interfere with proper fit of the fuselage halves. The A-8 Profipack PE part has the same issue. The PE part in later boxings was corrected, though, and can serve as a guide for re-shaping the plastic.
*Check that the lower edge of bulkhead (A80) clears top of the main wing spar (A66).
*Also check that the upper rear “angle” of (A80) clears the top of the lower instrument panel (A29). I had to bevel this edge quite a bit.
*If both layers of PE metal are mounted to the “blank” upper instrument panel (A19), the assembly is too thick to fit the mounting slots in the fuselage sides. Thin the plastic, or use only the outer PE layer over the kit decal instrument faces.
*When the main cockpit tub (A1) is correctly set in its mounting lugs, its rear deck will angle slightly upward from the fuselage. This must be flush for correct fit of the rear canopy. Glue this deck down separately only after the tub is set, and the fuselage halves assembled.
*The decking over the instrument panel (A51) needs its small hand-holds drilled out.
*Part (A51), when correctly located so that it does not interfere with the windscreen fit, really only contacts the top of the instrument panel. Leave a flat spot here, and be prepared for a fiddly attachment job.

TAIL
*I recommend gluing the tailplanes (C9, C10) after the model is painted. They are a perfect snap fit, and this is an easy way to achieve the paint color separation often seen at the tailplane root.
*The mounting tab of the tailwheel (A23) fits so tightly it can separate the fuselage halves. Sand it down slightly and be sure the fuselage is solidly joined.
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Big Kohona
Godzilla
Joined: October 27th, 2010, 5:11 am

August 4th, 2016, 12:46 pm #2

. .
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Joined: March 19th, 2016, 5:10 pm

August 4th, 2016, 5:26 pm #3

This will be a piece of indispensable reference material for all of us!!!
Thanks to MDriskill and his friend and to big Kohona who post a very useful picture.
Hope many others could contribute too, even a small detail or hint could be helpful.

ciao
Andrea
I fall asleep after have counted the third rivet...

...and criticism always welcomed!
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Big Kohona
Godzilla
Joined: October 27th, 2010, 5:11 am

October 7th, 2016, 9:26 pm #4

. .
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Chuck1945
Godzilla
Joined: May 25th, 2011, 7:05 pm

January 23rd, 2017, 5:11 pm #5

I just want to add emphasis to the comments about the main wheel bay. I posted pictures on the 'Help, I am about start' page showing the engine mount A67 installed per instructions and what then happens to the gear bay center, even when the channel for A67 has been deepened.
Chuck
Eastern WA, USA
Finished 2018:
Eduard Spitfire IXc, VIII, Monogram/Starfighter BFC-2
On the active bench:
Eduard Bf 110C, Hasegawa B-24D, SH P-40E
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Chuck1945
Godzilla
Joined: May 25th, 2011, 7:05 pm

February 5th, 2017, 9:24 pm #6

A follow up on my previous comments. After following the kit direction sequence for main spar, inner main gear bay cover and ammo cans and having a hassle trying to the inner bay cover (part A89) to fit properly over A67, I used a different sequence on my second one.

For me, it worked much better attaching A67 directly to A89, then gluing the ammo cans (A30) to A89 and only then attaching it all to the main spar and lower fuselage. This makes it easier to adjust (trim) A67 to fit and with the ammo cans on the upper gear bay, there is more plastic available to get a good join with the spar too. If you choose to add extensions to the ammo cans (A30), it is easier to do this too before everything is closed up in the wing.
Chuck
Eastern WA, USA
Finished 2018:
Eduard Spitfire IXc, VIII, Monogram/Starfighter BFC-2
On the active bench:
Eduard Bf 110C, Hasegawa B-24D, SH P-40E
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ca-15
Hero
Joined: November 5th, 2010, 3:29 am

June 27th, 2017, 12:16 am #7

Hi MDriskill, Andrea

I recall in one of the builds one of you mentioned the "sinkage" in the flaps. I had a look at the plastic and there is a faint line on the top of the flaps however I'm not sure if this needs filling or it will disappear after painting. Any hints?

Cheers

Michael
Michael Louey
Melbourne Australia
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ca-15
Hero
Joined: November 5th, 2010, 3:29 am

January 29th, 2018, 2:57 am #8

Hi,

MDriskill mentioned adding any of my own experiences in building my A-5, so here are a few more notes -

1. The main items which I found useful from the list of notes was the shortening of the parts involved in the engine/crankcase/fan as without these mods, the whole assembly would stick too far forward. Similarly the injection panels need sanding back to allow the cockpit assembly to fit.

2. As well as thinning the attachment tab for the tail wheel, I also shortened it so the tail wheel extends less under the fuselage. Looking at pictures, most 190's must be under more load and the rear tailwheel is in a more "compressed" state.

3. The retractable step is fragile, you only have to look at it and it'll break. I had a delicate job repairing it and a 2nd one I tried to borrow from a separate kit is in even worse state - I'll use that one in a retracted state in it's build.

4. The decals are very thin and don't want to move once settled. Use a lot of water to float them off and get them in position quickly. They do bed down well and they didn't silver much/at all on most parts.

5. I should have looked at the inner gear doors in photos of the real thing earlier (as well as a build by Libor). They hung down a lot more than I thought and I had to adjust them a couple of times. There's not a lot of positive attachment to the wheel wells for these parts.

Cheers

Michael

Michael Louey
Melbourne Australia
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MDriskill
Hero
Joined: February 19th, 2011, 8:02 pm

January 29th, 2018, 11:33 am #9

Thanks Michael! I appreciate your doing that, and will edit my intial post accordingly.

I’m not sure about the A-5, but the earlier “short nose” variants through the A-4 had an ingenious sprung cable mechanism that returned the center doors to the up position when the main legs were extended, and then let them fall open, to pass the wheel, when the gear was retracted. It also worked in reverse, pulling the inner doors up when the gear reached the fully-extended position.

Thus, the inner doors were usually closed on a parked machine (the Tamiya A-3 kit has been unfairly criticized for having them in this position) but could be popped down by hand for servicing. It’s correct to model them in either position—or even with one each way.
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hobbykiller
Beast
Joined: January 15th, 2012, 9:44 am

March 7th, 2018, 10:42 pm #10

MDriskill wrote: NOSE/ENGINE
*The prop (A25) and engine fan (A11) sit too far forward; the fan face should be noticeably aft of the front lip of the oil cooler ring. Sand down the front of engine crankcase (A77), plus maybe dish out back of fan (A11), as needed.
*The prop will droop because its shaft (back of A11) is quite short, and smaller in diameter than its mounting hole. I made a new shaft and mount of telescoping brass tubing, but if you don’t need the prop to spin simply glue it in place, or snug up the shaft with a paper shim.
Just sharing ideas, how to (sorry for dirt/dust, it is only illustrative work).

















cheers, Mark
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MDriskill
Hero
Joined: February 19th, 2011, 8:02 pm

March 9th, 2018, 9:05 am #11

A very straightforward and effective approach to this issue!

It’s a wonderful kit overall, but things like this make you think Eduard rather rushed through its development...
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