Over several years I have collected images of the 1812 pattern Regulation Infantry caps aka 'Belgic shako'. Officers caps were made by individual hatters and there is much variance in detail - however a few of them seem to be adorned with an odd cockade and I am interested in identifying the material used as nothing like this seems to exist in Haberdashers today :
This cockade is on a cap held by Bristol museum. This one at the Green Howards museum - similar? :
Other variants : 32nd private collection
The first one looks to be a pleated and quite substantial grosgrain (or more probably a petersham type ) ribbon.
The second is likely to be a pleated plain weave or a thin grosgrain.
The third is most likely a later repro replacement as it's a tubular or french braid (Hercules) and looks either to be mohair or rayon.
The forth and fifth are again plain weaves or light grosgrain.
The usual style is either 3 pleated circles separate and overlaid or a 3 or 4 tier spiral made with a single length pleated inwards. The same styles are found in rosettes on the gorget.